First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2.
I have tried SO HARD to make this thing work. It's late at night, and I come up to see how my two printers are doing on their Face Masks for Makerbot. The old and busted (and noisy) MK2.5s is finished, and as usual, the new hotness, the MK3s, is stalled out requesting user attention. It looks like it stalled out on a single filament print, with plenty of filament on the reel, somewhere between F1 and F2, requesting that I push "the" button. WHY? It's ROCK SOLID on the sensors. After cleaning out the filament chambers, and attempting to see what the status of the different sensors are, and pressing all of "the" buttons with no reaction from the printer, and no way to get any type of feedback on what I'm doing. I have had to give up on yet another print. I have absolutely NO idea why this print failed. I can only guess that it thought F1 ran out. But I can't tell, because nothing happens when I press any of the four "THE" buttons. SO - MMU2s comes off the MK3s, so that I have a printer I do not regret using, and go back to printing. It was about six months ago that I gave up on printing anything that had more than 3 filament changes. (Maybe two colors on the bottom surface, single layer, and then a single color for the rest of the print). And was hoping that I could at least do single color prints and use the MMU to choose the color. Nope. I can't even do that.
So, tomorrow, the MMU2s comes off the printer, goes in a drawer, and when the forums look like there is some firmware revision that seems a bit more likely to work, I will think about taking the MMU2 out of storage.
I would like to say it was a nice experiment, but... It wasn't. It cost me an extruder assembly, God knows how many meters of filament, and many hours of my time looking for the microscopic error, often never found. Come lunchtime tomorrow, I will be one of the many happy Single Filament FDM printers again.
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
It's off, and I have already printed two PPE face mask visors - WITHOUT ISSUE! It is so freeing, not to have to inspect the entire printer before, during, and after a print.
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
The button in question is most likely the reset button in the MMU2, should be a small hole near the micro usb port on the side.
If the MMU runs into problem and for example cant move selector then it will retry a couple of times and then give up asking you to reset it (and hopefully also fix the problem)
I can tell you i have a ton if issues with my mmu, when it works it works very well and i have it dialed in so it also works (more or less) with flexible filaments, the problem i have seems to be power related but i'm not so sure it is that simple.
For me it is moving the selector that tends to fail, which makes doing a multi color print with a lot of changes a nightmare.
If you want to disable the MMU and print without it, all you need to do is to (when printer is turned off) unplug the two cables going to the printers electronics box (one is power the other one is signal) and then bypass the mmu and feed filament directly.
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
That's unfortunate. I'm waiting for my kit to arrive, and but not really looking forward to failing prints right out of the box. I may save the MMU for the next week after I get a few successes under my belt.
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
Yes, my recommendation is to first start with just the printer and get it working well and familiarize yourself with how it works, get it dialed in and some of the troubleshooting that most likely will be needed (clogged nozzle, first layer calibration and so on)
Then some time later add the mmu.
If you add the MMU from day one it may be hard to know where the problems come from, is it a general printer issue or an MMU that needs adjusting to get it working properly.
One possible problem area for MMU is the two sensors responsible for filament loading (finda & the door) it is also not obvious if this needs adjusting, i made one of those led mods so it is easier to see the sensor status for the "door sensor" (menu system is not always possible to use when you have problems plus led is more obvious if it is glitching, like filament tip shape causing problems)
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
Yeah, I nearly riped mine off yesterday. It is so frustrating getting no feedback on where the problem is or what caused it.
It has almost put me off buying another Prusa product. I would have thought they would have done a tutorial or something on how to set it up and get it reliable with all the problems people have with it.
I dont think a firmware will fix the problems with the MMU2S. There are just too many variables for failure.
Happy single filiment printing =)
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
I've taken my MMU2 unit off the printer.
Question....do I have to swap back to the original filament sensor on top of the extruder? Are there any steps beyond just removing the unit that I should be looking at?
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
I've taken my MMU2 unit off the printer.
Question....do I have to swap back to the original filament sensor on top of the extruder? Are there any steps beyond just removing the unit that I should be looking at?
No, it will act just like a MK3S (almost), except that you will have to push the filament into the gears before the machine will realise that the filament is loaded. Also if it runs out of filament, it will not rewind the last bit of filament out of the extruder. I have been running mine without the MMU2S connected for about 3 weeks now, with no other issues.
Cheers,Dave Jackson"Enthralled Nooby (not so much maybe, ~58 years old)... If 3d printers had been around 40 years ago... "
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
@david-j21
I too have had enough of the MMU2s and wish to remove it from the printer, Mk3s. I have treated myself to the Mosiac Palette 2s as it seems to be getting excellent reviews, has good customer services and works well with the Mk3s. I was going to ask if you have to change the filament sensor back to the original when removing the MMU2s, it appears that this is not necessary providing you insert the filament manually.
My question is this:- Has anyone fitted the palette 2s to the Mk3s, would I have to revert back to the original filament sensor?
If anyone is interested in getting an MMU2s, I have one going 😀 !!!!
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
@mssj
I'm super interested in how the palette works for you. My mmu is on backorder but I can cancel it if the palette is better.
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
The more I look at the Palette the more I like it. MMU2S gets terrible reviews and I want to like it, but I'm not the guy that wants to rebuild the printer every week. I bought a Prusa because I wanted reliability.
Does it work with PrusaSlicer? Do you have to buy the hub with it? Whats this mofo out the door? Backordered like everything else lately?
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
@mssj
I remove (or rather disconnected) my MMU2S because I am printing face shields full time, and didn't need any issues caused by the MMU2S needing a service slowing things down. As soon as the need for shields ends, I will service and re-install it.
@ smoking_rubber
You are absolutely right the MMU2S needs continual love and care for reliable operation. The MK3S can be abused repeatedly with very little service. Look at all of us who have been printing face shields continually for weeks. In all that time I have only shown a bit of light machine oil to the bearings.
Cheers,Dave Jackson"Enthralled Nooby (not so much maybe, ~58 years old)... If 3d printers had been around 40 years ago... "
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
@smoking_rubb ..It only arrived on Friday and is still in the Amazon box. I have to find out a few things before I set it up with the MK3s, mainly the tube to the extruder fitting, also the filament sensor. According to Mosaic it is a simple job to match the palette with the Mk3s, you don't need the canvas hub but it helps, there is an alternative raspberry pi that costs less, all the parts needed to connect to the Mk3s are in the box except the tube adaptor which can be printed on a download from Thingiverse, I am looking forward to setting it up. Mosaic mention Octoprint to use with the alternative Pi hub. I have a version of Fusion 360 3d which I am informed will work ok. As for back-ordering, it took 3 days to be delivered by Amazon UK from Mosaic Manufacturing Ltd. There are many videos on youtube, so I will spend some time looking at them, the more I see the more the palette appeals to me.
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
@mssj
to the best of my knowledge you disable the Mk3 autoload when you fit a pallette2S
so I don't see a need for a filament sensor.
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
@mssj
Disable the filament sensor in firmware.
Detach the MMU2s's PTFE tube from the Festo connector on the extruder and replace it with the PTFE tube from the pallette2S.
It takes 10 minutes or less to switch between MMU2s and pallette2S or back.
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
@bruce-p4
Hi Bruce,,, do I need to change the extruder MMU2s modification back to the original?. The modified extruder as you know has a longer bit on top where the filament goes in, can this stay or do I need to revert back to the original top bit and print the palette tube adapter from Thingiverse. I hope this makes sense 🙂
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
@joantabb
Thanks for info, it all helps.
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
@bruce-p4
Do you have the canvas hub s ?? if so anything I should know about.
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
@mssj
I use the DIY canvas hub instead of the pre-loaded one. If you are already using Octoprint, it is pretty much just loading the canvas hub plugins. Here is the link to the process to setup it.
The hub provides a checkpoint (digital ping) so the palette knows how much filament the printer is supposed to use and to compare it to how much filament the printer has actually used. This allows the palette to better sync the color changes.
Here is an article that explains it in more depth.
The use of the hub with connected mode works much better than the accessory mode where the palette doesn't have the ability to know where the printer is in the print.
RE: First thing I do tomorrow is remove the MMU2
So just to clarify, the hub is just a Pi and if I've already got a Pi3B+ there's no need to buy the hub?
Do you think the Pro is worth the price? It splices 20% faster, but if the filament is in the loop anyway what does faster do for you? And are we actually talking about a 10 second splice vs a 8 second splice? Or more like 30 vs 24?