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What needs tweaking? ramming?  

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OldSalty3D
(@oldsalty3d)
Trusted Member
Re: What needs tweaking? ramming?

I think I found the sweet spot!!

There were a couple of things I experimented with in the "Printer Settings". After doing extensive testing with all the "Filament Settings", and getting nowhere I turned to YouTube (as any respectful maker would), and come across 0Calvin's video, , At about 10 minutes into the video he talks about the changes he made to the "Single Extruder MM Setup", so I started looking there. Now correct me if I'm completely wrong on this, but "Cooling Tube Position" states that it is the "Distance of the center-point of the cooling tube from the extruder tip". If I'm not mistaken the cooling tube is the ribbed area of the extruder? If so the distance from the tip to the middle of my cooling tube is 40mm, default was set at 30mm. The "Cooling Tube Length" states that it is the "Length of the cooling tube to limit space for cooling moves inside it". Default was 10mm. Again, if I'm not mistaken the cooling tube is the ribbed section of the extruder, the length of mine is 30mm! That's a big difference! Once I set "Cooling tube position", and "Cooling Tube Length" to the measurements I got off of my stock MK3, things just fell into place.

Now if I'm correct in my deductions, almost all if not all stock setup MK3 printers should have the same size of cooling tubes. I'm not sure if the MK2s is different, but in either case why wouldn't Slic3r PE have the default setting set to the proper lengths, or at least tell us in the manual that these settings need to be changed to what our actual cool tube length and position are?

Here are my settings, and not only do they work with the Matterhacker Build PLA, but it also works for my Matterhacker Pro PLA, eSun, Hatchbox, and Makergeek PLAs.

Filament Settings:
Extruder First Layer: 215
Other Layers: 210
Loading speed at the start: 19
Loading speed: 22
Unloading speed at the start: 140
Speed of the first cooling move: 2.2
Speed of the last cooling move: 3.4
Ramming/total ramming time: 4 sec

Printer Settings (Single extruder MM setup):
Cooling tube position: 40mm
Cooling tube length: 30mm

All other settings are the Slic3r PE default.

With those settings I'm currently about 13 hrs into a 26 hour print and no strings anywhere! I did have one jam with an oddball tip, but I'm going to chalk that up to a problem with that part of the filament. That happened 3 hours into the print, and it was just the one time. All of my tips look like the one in the photo (for both Matterhacker Build PLA, and Makergeek Pearl PLA)

Opublikowany : 25/10/2018 6:24 pm
Michael
(@michael-34)
New Member
Re: What needs tweaking? ramming?

are these settings still working for you? I'm struggling to get my tips correct and use MakerGeeks as well... I just got a ton of prusament in but haven't tested it. the MMU would be useless to me if it only worked with the 5 colors available from prusa, so until they release more colors i'll need to get my MG working as well as some esun and polymaker. so far i can get super clean tips, almost factory end clean except they are exactly 2mm wide so they get caught in the PTFE during unload.

Opublikowany : 27/11/2018 2:03 am
Djamuka
(@djamuka)
Eminent Member
Re: What needs tweaking? ramming?

Hi there , @Wayne.s4 you allways use this setting ? are you the only one, and somebody in the prusa team can relate about this setting (need to be tweak or not)?


Printer Settings (Single extruder MM setup):
Cooling tube position: 40mm
Cooling tube length: 30mm

Thanks
++

Opublikowany : 27/11/2018 11:54 am
OldSalty3D
(@oldsalty3d)
Trusted Member
Re: What needs tweaking? ramming?

I'm no longer using those settings, sorry, thought I had updated my progress in all the threads I was active in.

The problem I was having was actually not because of the filament settings, or the MMU, it was my nozzle! 😮

I was using an Olson Ruby Nozzle, and I found out that the ruby, inside the nozzle, has a flat top to it. Never going to pull a nice tapered tip off of a flat surface. Once I went back to a brass nozzle all my troubles went away. I explain it all in this other thread that I started. https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting-f54/if-you-are-using-a-ruby-tipped-nozzle-with-your-mm-t25797.html#p115404

My current settings for Matterhackers Build PLA, and MakerGeeks:

Extruder First Layer Temp: 215, Other Layers: 210
Loading Speed at the Start: 19
Loading Speed: 21
Unloading Speed at the Start: 110
Unloading Speed: 20
Filament Load Time: 12
Filament Unload time: 11
Delay after unloading: 0
Speed of the first cooling move: 2
Speed of the last cooling move: 1
Minimal purge on wipe tower: 15
Ramming: Total ramming time: 2.50 (rest are default)

Printer Settings: Are back at default settings.

Once I stopped using the ruby nozzle I actually saw changes in the filament when ever I made a settings change. So it was a lot easier to dial in the settings.

Opublikowany : 27/11/2018 4:54 pm
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