Re: Still failing to print
I was putting it in the custom gcode for the filament
after M900 K{if printer_notes=~/.*PRINTER_HAS_BOWDEN.*/}200{else}45{endif}; Filament gcode
Re: Still failing to print
I was putting it in the custom gcode for the filament
after M900 K{if printer_notes=~/.*PRINTER_HAS_BOWDEN.*/}200{else}45{endif}; Filament gcode
That's the wrong spot. This is an example where it should be:
....
;--------------------
; CP TOOLCHANGE START
; toolchange #29
; material : DEFAULT (PLA)
;--------------------
M220 S100
M907 E750
; CP TOOLCHANGE UNLOAD
G1 X219.780 Y168.286
G1 X163.487 E2.1395
M73 P48 R478
G1 F1461
G1 X161.280 E0.1022
G1 Y167.626 F7200
G1 F1461
G1 X165.154 E0.1794
G1 F1583
G1 X171.740 E0.3051
G1 F1791
G1 X179.196 E0.3453
G1 F2069
G1 X187.809 E0.3990
G1 F2469
G1 X198.087 E0.4761
G1 F2991
G1 X210.537 E0.5767
G1 F3513
G1 X219.780 E0.4281
G1 Y166.966 F7200
G1 F3513
G1 X214.402 E0.2491
G1 F3965
G1 X197.899 E0.7644
G1 F4278
G1 X180.093 E0.8248
G1 F4400
G1 X161.780 E0.8483
G1 E-15.0000 F6000
G1 E-14.0000 F1200
G1 E-4.0000 F600
G1 E-2.0000 F360
M104 S255 ; This is where Slic3r set new temp !!!
G1 Y166.306
G1 X219.780 E10.0000 F706
G1 X161.780 E-10.0000 F589
M73 Q49 S482
G1 X219.780 E10.0000 F471
G1 X161.780 E-10.0000 F353
G1 E-50.0000 F2000
G1 Y166.386 F2400
G4 S0
T2
M220 S100
M109 S255 ; This is where I would wait for the new temp being set !!!
G4 S0
; CP TOOLCHANGE LOAD
G1 E14.4000 F180
M73 P48 R477
G1 X219.905 E50.4000 F1282
G1 X161.780 E7.2000 F683
M907 E550
G1 Y166.886
; CP TOOLCHANGE WIPE
G1 X161.280 Y166.386
....
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Re: Still failing to print
Ahh Thanks, So I am going to need to put this in the gcode manually?
Re: Still failing to print
So I tried a 2 colour PETG and I thought it was going to work but unfortunately right at the end it failed on me. 🙁
I didn't see if it got blocked but a check indicates it still had red in the hotend. So I suspect the white did not catch due to the tip not being formed correctly. Would be nice is the filament sensor worked.
Any recommendations?
Re: Still failing to print
Just added this mod to see if it helps;
Re: Still failing to print
Ahh Thanks, So I am going to need to put this in the gcode manually?
At the current state, yes. I've seen a python script which you could use for this but I can't find at the moment.
I hope the Slic3r PE devs will get some priority on it. But it seems like they are pretty busy with SL1 enhancements right now.
Often linked posts:
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Re: Still failing to print
Thanks for your help. I have almost finished another santa hat and i think I know where the issue is.
It appears that the filament is getting caught in the top of the extruder housing (just before it reaches the bondtech gears near the filament sensor).
I tried to pull the filament back and forth to get it to feed through but it was getting caught where it funnels to the gears.
There is no debris inside so I think it is getting caught because of the tip being a deformed.
When this print is finished I will get some photos of where the filament is getting stuck.
Thanks
Re: Still failing to print
Here is where it is getting stuck.
Re: Still failing to print
Additionally my wipe tower is still so unpredictable with PETG 🙁
Re: Still failing to print
Additionally my wipe tower is still so unpredictable with PETG 🙁
I've noticed the same.
I turned down the "Max Volumetric Speed" under advanced filament settings, and that seems to slow down the wipe tower enough to make it more consistent. Melted PETG is kind of gooey, and can kind of stick to itself if you try to print too fast and it doesn't bond well enough to something.
Re: Still failing to print
I had a similar issue where I'd accidentally used an old MMU setup, which had the cooling tubes location set above the gear location. The bondtech would smoosh the still warm filament and jam just above the gear.
I'd make sure that the filament is fully cooled before it gets to the gears.
Re: Still failing to print
Further tweaking and testing. My Filament gets jammed in the orange tube when trying to load again. With PETG there is too much stringing and it folds back onto itself, thus getting stuck and the filament starts to grind in the MMU.
I have tried reducing the the temp and increasing the cooling moves, but still can't get this resolved. I have order some PTFE that has a larger ID.
:/
Re: Still failing to print
PETG is really a pain for the MMU. I managed to get less stringing at 250C but still every 50 tool changes I need to clean around the selector. But I still hopeful to find a magic configuration for a nice tip. Even if it takes more time during the tool change.
Often linked posts:
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Real Multi Material
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Re: Still failing to print
PETG is really a pain for the MMU. I managed to get less stringing at 250C but still every 50 tool changes I need to clean around the selector. But I still hopeful to find a magic configuration for a nice tip. Even if it takes more time during the tool change.
The default "Generic PETG" profile uses a print temperature of 230C. That's been generally working for me.
Re: Still failing to print
I also tried to print PETG today for the first time (Benchy in Orange and Black) and encountered some problems with the wipe tower and had to stop the print. It seems like one layer hasn't been printed in the wipe tower and the next layer didn't seem to stick good enough, so that the filament started to be all over the place, so that I had to stop the print. I will try it tomorrow again with a higher temperature and hope this solves this issue.
The previous two trys (with a Benchy in 5 colors PETG) had an issue with the filament selector. It was supposed to pull the 5th filament and the selector itself was also on the right place, but the rotating filament pusher ("revolver"?) was pushing the 4th element until it hit the selector (which was in the 5th slot) ... I really thought the MMU 2.0 was working much smoother ...
Re: Still failing to print
The default "Generic PETG" profile uses a print temperature of 230C. That's been generally working for me.
For decor it might work. For everything practical is 230 for my PETG to brittle.
Often linked posts:
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Re: Still failing to print
Interesting, because Prusa say to print cooler to prevent stringing. 🙁
I print first layer at 240, then usually at 235. I have dropped it to 230 to see if it works.
I just received my clear PTFE with a wider ID. I have installed and calibrated. I will post back after I attempt the Penguin 😉
Re: Still failing to print
Interesting, because Prusa say to print cooler to prevent stringing. 🙁
That's correct. There is always a trade of. Print hot to get best layer adhesion or print cold to get a nice filament tip. To find a sweet spot is always hard for us customers because it differs from brand to brand and sometimes even from color to color. That's the price we pay for filament independence.
Often linked posts:
Going small with MMU2
Real Multi Material
My prints on Instagram
Re: Still failing to print
So I installed the PTFE tubing and recalibrated.
My penguin print worked well, except for the fact I had to baby the wipe tower as that kept stuffing up. I will post pictures of the end result.
Given that was successful i tried a bigger/long print. When I woke up in the morning I had this waiting for me... 🙁
I am over the MMU, I am going to request a refund from Prusa as this thing does not work and I have spent way too much money on filament just to try and get it right. 🙁
Single filament prints are fine. If only they would actually enable the Sensor in the extruder body I feel this would solve a lot more issues.
Re: Still failing to print
More failed attempts 🙁
