MMU 2.0S What am I doing wrong, Problem found  

Re: MMU 2.0S What am I doing wrong, Problem found

I am assuming since I did the extruder upgrade my system is now a MK3S

But did you upgrade the extruder for MMU2S? Or did you simply use the magnets and ball for the IR sensor? If the latter, then you will need to also do the MMU2S extruder upgrade.

Also whenever the MMU powers on it sounds like a machine gun. Is this normal?

That is the idler homing and is normal.

Peter

Re: MMU 2.0S What am I doing wrong, Problem found

I am assuming since I did the extruder upgrade my system is now a MK3S

But did you upgrade the extruder for MMU2S? Or did you simply use the magnets and ball for the IR sensor? If the latter, then you will need to also do the MMU2S extruder upgrade.

Also whenever the MMU powers on it sounds like a machine gun. Is this normal?

That is the idler homing and is normal.

Peter

It's the full extruder upgrade with the new opto switch. I got it to start one print last night and now I am down again. 🙁 Will try again tomorrow.

Re: MMU 2.0S What am I doing wrong, Problem found

I have been facing the same problems as you mentioned.
Here is what I did:

Make sure all Bondtech gears of the MMU are aligned correct.

Throw away the orange PTFE Boden Tube delivered from Prusa as its tolerances are very tight. Replace it with a tube having an inner diameter of 2.0 mm instead of 1.85. Once your MMU works, the orange Bowden gets problems with the thicker tips of the filament. The length of the new tube needs to be 360mm.

Check the Bowden on top of the hotend (I hope you replaced it with the new one as it needs to be shorter!), mine was somehow squeezed after one day and I replaced it by a Capricorn Tube. Check the correct length once again and don't forget to cut the inner taper on top and the outer taper which is going into the Hotend.

Since I did all this, filament change works like a charm, but facing a Pre Heat Error if I use filaments having different temperature settings. In my opininion this makes the MMU more or less useless. This is definitely a Firmware problem.

BR
Roy

Re: MMU 2.0S What am I doing wrong, Problem found

It's the full extruder upgrade with the new opto switch. I got it to start one print last night and now I am down again. 🙁 Will try again tomorrow.

It's an IR sensor. Did you use the ball and magnets, or have you printed and used all the MMU2S extruder upgrade parts including the sensor tower and idler door with sensor trigger arm?

Peter

Re: MMU 2.0S What am I doing wrong, Problem found

The new MMU2S comes together with the full Extruder upgrade.
Thus the printer is an Mk3S afterwards.

Re: MMU 2.0S What am I doing wrong, Problem found

The new MMU2S comes together with the full Extruder upgrade.
Thus the printer is an Mk3S afterwards.

You are aware that there are different extruder parts for Mk3S and Mk3S+MMU2S ?

And that you cannot use a Mk3S with the MMU2S unless you install those different extruder parts? If you do, the symptoms will be exactly as reported, hence why I am asking the same question twice.

Peter

Re: MMU 2.0S What am I doing wrong, Problem found

I think the MK3S (infrared filament sensor) fits to MMU2S already. If you still have the version with the steel ball you need to upgrade them. But those items are included in the MMU2 S package ats it was in mine.
On my package of the MMU2S I got all parts to upgrade the MK3 to MK3S version.
As he just got his MMU2S he should have the items included to upgrade the MK3 as well.

Re: MMU 2.0S What am I doing wrong, Problem found

Throw away the orange PTFE Boden Tube delivered from Prusa as its tolerances are very tight. Replace it with a tube having an inner diameter of 2.0 mm instead of 1.85. Once your MMU works, the orange Bowden gets problems with the thicker tips of the filament. The length of the new tube needs to be 360mm.

BR
Roy

I think your right about the orange tubing. I can print now but sometimes I get skipped layers. I think it is too tight tolerance on the ID and variance in the filament. I can feel sometimes that my filament goes through perfectly and other times it gets stuck and and I find a half moon or mouse bit out of the filament where it has been ground down in the MMU. I have some extra Bowden Tubing. I will have to check the ID.
Thanks

Re: MMU 2.0S What am I doing wrong, Problem found

hi, i will give two good informations.
i did big mistake about that tubes hole wider.
when i backed to those all tubes to original 1.8, all troubles gone and now i have no trouble at mmu2 multi colors printing.
because if you make wide the hole, the filament colding process do at rhat wider 2.0 hole so it become clogging at everywhere of joints.
also, when you test print, the data you should make by yourself from .stl, but don’t use supplied lizard gcode or sheep gcode ones.
even now my printing fails only at supplied gcode them data!

Throw away the orange PTFE Boden Tube delivered from Prusa as its tolerances are very tight. Replace it with a tube having an inner diameter of 2.0 mm instead of 1.85. Once your MMU works, the orange Bowden gets problems with the thicker tips of the filament. The length of the new tube needs to be 360mm.

BR
Roy

I think your right about the orange tubing. I can print now but sometimes I get skipped layers. I think it is too tight tolerance on the ID and variance in the filament. I can feel sometimes that my filament goes through perfectly and other times it gets stuck and and I find a half moon or mouse bit out of the filament where it has been ground down in the MMU. I have some extra Bowden Tubing. I will have to check the ID.
Thanks