Upgrading Hotend Parts
So I have been running my MK3s since about 6 months now (it's my first printer), pretty reguarly. I have since added Octopi and a Lack enclosure and am pretty happy with the whole setup (I do have some gripes), but all in all, things worked very well until...
I started having a clogged hotend with PLA prints (>1 hour) and checked the forum. Lo and behold, this was my exact issue:
https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-hardware-firmware-and-software-help/prusa-edition-heat-break-easily-jam-clog-with-pla/
(Thanks for all the great work gone into the info in that thread!)
So anyway, I thought I would replace the problematic parts and in the same instance, upgrade to a new nozzle. I opted for the following:
- E3D v6 Titanium heatbreak (thinking, like an idiot, higher-grade materials will automatically get better printing results and less issues)
- E3D v6 Hardened steel nozzle (thinking again, like an idiot, with a steel nozzle I will have better durability and can print any material without having to swap the nozzle first)
Being the newbie I am, all I did was swap these parts with the stock parts and resumed printing (obviously after doing the whole calibration process first). I was pretty underwhelmed by the results but thought they were due to me not getting the Z-hight right.
Anyway, I started an 11 hour PLA print, and in the last hour, I had another clogged hotend. Needless to say, I was very disappointed and came back to the forum to find these threads (which I maybe should have checked earlier, hindsight 20-20, etc....):
TLDR:
I have once again taken apart my Hotend and would now like to replace the parts, so I can keep printing worry-free. I am looking into replacing:
- Nozzle
- Heatblock
- Heatbreak
- Heatsink
And would like recommendations what will be the most reliable setup. At the moment I am not planning on printing abrasive/exotic materials, so almost exclusivly PETG and PLA (and maybe some flex).
I am open to spending *a little more* money if it means I can get reliable results and minimal clogging/failing in the long run.
At the moment I am toying with just getting the regular E3D v6 Heatbreak and keep on using it with all the stock nozzle, heatblock and heatsink.
Any comments would be greatly appreciated!
RE: Upgrading Hotend Parts
So I have been running my MK3s since about 6 months now (it's my first printer), pretty reguarly. I have since added Octopi and a Lack enclosure and am pretty happy with the whole setup (I do have some gripes), but all in all, things worked very well until...
I started having a clogged hotend with PLA prints (>1 hour) and checked the forum. Lo and behold, this was my exact issue:
https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-hardware-firmware-and-software-help/prusa-edition-heat-break-easily-jam-clog-with-pla/
(Thanks for all the great work gone into the info in that thread!)So anyway, I thought I would replace the problematic parts and in the same instance, upgrade to a new nozzle. I opted for the following:
- E3D v6 Titanium heatbreak (thinking, like an idiot, higher-grade materials will automatically get better printing results and less issues)
- E3D v6 Hardened steel nozzle (thinking again, like an idiot, with a steel nozzle I will have better durability and can print any material without having to swap the nozzle first)
Being the newbie I am, all I did was swap these parts with the stock parts and resumed printing (obviously after doing the whole calibration process first). I was pretty underwhelmed by the results but thought they were due to me not getting the Z-hight right.
Anyway, I started an 11 hour PLA print, and in the last hour, I had another clogged hotend. Needless to say, I was very disappointed and came back to the forum to find these threads (which I maybe should have checked earlier, hindsight 20-20, etc....):TLDR:
I have once again taken apart my Hotend and would now like to replace the parts, so I can keep printing worry-free. I am looking into replacing:
- Nozzle
- Heatblock
- Heatbreak
- Heatsink
And would like recommendations what will be the most reliable setup. At the moment I am not planning on printing abrasive/exotic materials, so almost exclusivly PETG and PLA (and maybe some flex).
I am open to spending *a little more* money if it means I can get reliable results and minimal clogging/failing in the long run.At the moment I am toying with just getting the regular E3D v6 Heatbreak and keep on using it with all the stock nozzle, heatblock and heatsink.
Any comments would be greatly appreciated!
I use the following setup on the MK3 and the Mini and have no problems whatsoever:
nozzle: https://www.3dmakerengineering.com/products/tungsten-carbide-3d-printer-nozzle
heatbreak: https://www.3djake.at/e3d/v6-titan-heatbreak alternatively https://de.aliexpress.com/i/4000698566141.html
nickel-plated copper heatblock: https://e3d-online.com/products/v6-plated-copper-heater-block
and heatsink: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32895954372.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dQ8kpNp and standard E3D heatsink https://e3d-online.com/products/v6-1-75mm-heatsink-with-coupling
Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen.
RE: Upgrading Hotend Parts
Keep door enclosure open wen printing pla petg, only close for abs.
Enclosure is not allowed to go higher then 40 degrees.
Get normal heatbrake, with smaller(normal) width.
Print a extra fan holder, to put a extra fan on top of the extruder, this will cool the extruder motor, otherwise heat can go to the filament and melt it to soon.(leave door open enclosure). See thingiverse for a model to print.
RE: Upgrading Hotend Parts
When you read through enough of the forum "Help this print fails, I am using the hardened steel nozzle, and ..." begin to stand out. The tungsten carbide nozzle has similar thermal properties as the brass nozzle. No adjustments to print settings are required. The steel nozzle requires tweaking to work well. So success with it will depend on how much effort you want to put into making it work well. The old time vs money compromise.