RE: Tungsten Carbide nozzle keeps loosening after heating cycle.
if you regularly change filaments between pla or petg and higher temperature filaments, it may be worth noting the different sets of PID values and inserting the appropriate values into the filament settings custom Gcode section.
this way the Gcode will update the working values to the correct values for the filament type that you are using.
otherwise if you do a PID tune and save the values to the controller, those will be the PID Values that you use, until you do the next PID tune.
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
RE: Tungsten Carbide nozzle keeps loosening after heating cycle.
if you regularly change filaments between pla or petg and higher temperature filaments, it may be worth noting the different sets of PID values and inserting the appropriate values into the filament settings custom Gcode section.
this way the Gcode will update the working values to the correct values for the filament type that you are using.otherwise if you do a PID tune and save the values to the controller, those will be the PID Values that you use, until you do the next PID tune.
regards Joan
Does that apply for Prusa stock heaterblock / heatbreak as well?
RE: Tungsten Carbide nozzle keeps loosening after heating cycle.
if you change the prusa heatblock and/or the heatbreak, you should do a PID tune, with the new setup, If you change back to the prusa Heatbreak and heat block, you need to re tune the PID settings.
If you regularly print high temperature filaments it is worth doing a PID Tune at the higher temperature.
ONE PID TUNE, is saved in the printer by a command, I believe it is M500.
you can choose to put temporary PID values into your Filament profiles, in the Custom Gcode section, the temporary values will exist until you reset your printer, or change the values yourself.
I only print PLA, PETG and TPU, so when I changed to A Phaetus Dragon, hot end, I did a PID tune, and I have not changed the PID since.
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
RE: Tungsten Carbide nozzle keeps loosening after heating cycle.
if you change the prusa heatblock and/or the heatbreak, you should do a PID tune, with the new setup, If you change back to the prusa Heatbreak and heat block, you need to re tune the PID settings.
If you regularly print high temperature filaments it is worth doing a PID Tune at the higher temperature.
ONE PID TUNE, is saved in the printer by a command, I believe it is M500.
you can choose to put temporary PID values into your Filament profiles, in the Custom Gcode section, the temporary values will exist until you reset your printer, or change the values yourself.
I only print PLA, PETG and TPU, so when I changed to A Phaetus Dragon, hot end, I did a PID tune, and I have not changed the PID since.regards Joan
Got it. Thank you very much!
RE: Tungsten Carbide nozzle keeps loosening after heating cycle.
I had the same issues when I installed my Bozzle nozzle, but after I tight it at 290 C, I haven't seen any problem again. I did a PID tune at 265 C btw.
RE: Tungsten Carbide nozzle keeps loosening after heating cycle.
did you also switch to the plated copper heatblock and titanium heatbreak?
RE: Tungsten Carbide nozzle keeps loosening after heating cycle.
I'm using the latest version of the MK3S+ assembled unit, so I think that I have the titanium heatbreak but not the plated copper heatblock
RE: Tungsten Carbide nozzle keeps loosening after heating cycle.
Hi! thanks for the info. I'm going to swap to a bimetal heatbreak and TC nozzle. I want to print PLA, PETG and ASA so the temps vary between 210 and 260. Is it neccesary to do a PID calibration when I change between PLA/PETG and ASA? or can I just run the pid calibration in the middle (lets say 240) and it is ok for both intended uses. And fot the TC nozzle may I need to swap to a copper plated heater block or is there any possibility that i can be ok with the stock one?
Best regards,
Simón
I'm learning and I can make mistakes or ask dumb questions, sorry about that