Modify E3D V6 for one hand nozzle change?
Would it be worth the effort to make an E3D hot end capable of "one hand" nozzle change like a Mosquito?
I think it can be done by drilling the heatsink fins and heat block to accept some stainless steel capillary tubes. Two bolts in upper heat sink fins could push the tubes down into the heat block. Also would need a grub screw to lock the heat break against rotation in the heat sink.
Of course, the hot end groove mount would also need to be anti-rotation capable. We already do that in the BNBSX to accommodate the Mosquito.
Just pondering whether it is worth the effort to try such a mod.
RE: Modify E3D V6 for one hand nozzle change?
Yes. It would be helpful.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Modify E3D V6 for one hand nozzle change?
I had a similar idea, but went one further.
If the heatblock is to be supported by tubes (Titanium capillary tube?), then replace the E3d heatbreak with modified version that also has a titanium tube running straight up the middle, made of copper so that the part that screws into the heatblock has a shoulder on top and has the capillary tube pressed into it. This tube would then extend through the heatsink via another copper jacket to interface the tube and heatsink above.
This could reduce heat creep up into the heatsink, and with the copper, hopefully help cooling of the heatbreak in the heatsink whilst improving the melt zone in the heater block.
In the attached picture the blue would be the titanium capillary tube.
(Yes I know the picture is not really correct as you would not be able to see the tube, but it's just an idea to discuss.)
Normal people believe that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Engineers believe that if it ain’t broke, it doesn’t have enough features yet.
RE: Modify E3D V6 for one hand nozzle change?
Would it be worth the effort to make an E3D hot end capable of "one hand" nozzle change like a Mosquito?
I think it can be done by drilling the heatsink fins and heat block to accept some stainless steel capillary tubes. Two bolts in upper heat sink fins could push the tubes down into the heat block. Also would need a grub screw to lock the heat break against rotation in the heat sink.
Of course, the hot end groove mount would also need to be anti-rotation capable. We already do that in the BNBSX to accommodate the Mosquito.
Just pondering whether it is worth the effort to try such a mod.
This could reduce heat creep up into the heatsink, and with the copper, hopefully help cooling of the heatbreak in the heatsink whilst improving the melt zone in the heater block.