RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
I would start with PC. It has a similarly high deflection temperature as Nylon but has better creep performance.
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
Yes, polycarb is reasonable choice. My best results are with PC-Max.
B05 revision of Mosquito kit is the one to print if using BNBSX extruders. The B05 Mosquito kit's fins are wider spaced from Mosquito and should hold up better during high temp, fan-less printing than prior, super tight versions.
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
In case files on Thingiverse are corrupted. That site is having major problems with uploads.
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
Thanks - I'll start with PC. I'm just using the stock Prusa Extruder at this point. May look at doing a mod to move stuff away from the hottest part of the hot end (or at least make them replaceable parts).
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
The question still remains...... once I get it back and running that is.... what settings to try for PEEK?
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
You might find some starting points in this video. They are printing in a heated chamber though...
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
Ultem is used it rocket retainers. It is amazing how required high the temps to print are. 390 C?
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3645975 has removable hot fins and reinforced PINDA mount for the R4. That might be a better choice than just a stock R4 or R5 because those lack removable hot fins. The hot fins are configured for E3D V6, but I don't think I would want them tighter to the Mosquito at PEEK print temperatures anyways.
Without a fully heated chamber, success is going to be more difficult. I would be surprised if you can do objects much larger than the fan shroud.
I would try nozzle temperature up another 20 C bit and slow down the print to 20-30 mm/sec max to help get better fusion. The screw mount deformation shows that the object isn't cooling enough before the next layer is added there. You can add some fan on short time layers. Alternatively print more than one shroud at a time to get more time between layers on the short time areas of the print.
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
Spent the best part of the weekend on this. I've modified the Mosquito printed parts to make the lower parts replaceable, and removed the fins that is directly over the heat block. These were the bit that was melting onto the heat block then smoking during my PEEK print. I'll post up the files once I'm done but at the moment I'm working on getting a working print with the right tolerances for the nut heads etc.
Good news is that all my steppers and replacement bits from Slice have arrived (including the heat break insulator) but I guess that will be next weekends work!
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
FYI - had an Idea. I just asked Daniel at Slice Engineering if they would consider selling pre-printed hot end kits made of PEEK (or Ultem etc) to suit the Mosquito. Like Prusa does with their Kits. Once you had one set, you could then print more, but it is hard leaping to 400c with stuff that prints at sub 300c.
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
For some reason the video posted earlier in this thread led me to believe Bondtech was working on a mosquito extruder for the MK3S... Am I mistaken?
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
For some reason the video posted earlier in this thread led me to believe Bondtech was working on a mosquito extruder for the MK3S... Am I mistaken?
Yes, but I already own an BMG-M.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
Got the Slice thermistor and 50 watt heater installed in my BNBSX with Mosquito Magnum. My Slice thermistor is OK with the standard Slice thermistor table.
PID definitely works better at 285C with the Slice thermistor and heater. The E3D heater/thermistor combination always had about 3-5 degrees of short, random instability no matter how may times I ran PID. With the Slice thermistor and heater, temperature curve is nice and steady at 285 and 290C.
BTW, don't forget to also order the thermistor extension cable. I didn't and had to crimp my own.
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
I've given up (for now) or trying to print and use PC / Nylon Hot End Parts as it was soaking up way to much time (I've got dimensional accuracy issues like holes being too small and as I was running out of PC was trying to use my Nylon (Dupont Zytel)). At least I got very good at stripping and re-assembling my Hot End.
Other things:
- Tried to put on the new Heat Cover for the Magnum. This one broke as well (and I handled it like an egg). The current versions of these are just too fragile to use.
- New Firmware is out for the MMU2s and I've been playing with the Load/Unload distances (when I've landed on some updated values I'll post those up).
- I've not heard back from Slice yet on pre-printed high temp Hot End mounting parts
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
I'm a bit perplexed as to why your insulator for the Magnum is so difficult to install. Mine slipped over the heat break with hardly any resistance. I had expected it to be tight fit based on your trouble report. Maybe your Magnum heat break is larger diameter than the one I got?
Anyways, I'm quite pleased now that mine is fully set up with Magnum heat break, 50 watt heater, slice thermistor, Spool3D tungsten carbide nozzle, and my DIY phenolic print bed. I can print PC and CFPC with plenty of thermal headroom now - even works without a brim or any glue. Only works with only Polymaker and Priline brands though.
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
My Insulator did not drop all the way down to the heat block. Looks like I may have a burr on the "nut" part of the heat break that prevented it from seating properly. That said I'm not noticing a great issue in not having the Insulator (So Far).
I too am pretty pleased with the Magnum, 50wt heater, slice thermistor, and TC nozzle
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
Another potential Benefit of the Mosquito is MMU2s users may not need the "Ramming" Steps as the Heat Break design is it straight through without any change in dimensions. I get nicely formed tips (but with a long string) VS the Prusa/E3D Heat Break which has a fatter tip than 1.75 due to the stepped heat break design.
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
My MMU2s testing is not going so well. Turns out while an initial cut tip feeds well, the "formed" tips tend to be a bit to big to feed into the Mosquito. I had this working on the Mosquito Std just fine so I broke down the block to do a swap from a Magnum to Std heat break as the tips will just pass through the Std that I have (but not on the Magnum) so I can work on the Tip Forming settings.... but;
Anyone know what the Hex Head size of the heater block screws are? I got them half way in before my (cheap) Allen Key started to slip. Need to get some good quality precision ones.
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
Any chance you have some PEEK residue stuck inside the Magnum?
I'm surprised that the internal diameter would be different between the standard and magnum heat breaks.
RE: MK3S Mosquito integration
I don't think it is the internal diameter rather just the very top of the heat break where the filament first enters. It is just a tiny bit different so will not let the expanded tip enter. I'm comparing to an unused Std. It could just be that it is slightly deformed from the press fit from when tightening up the heat block to the heat sink.
Which as me thinking, I've been using the same E3D technique of:
- tighten Nozzle into the Heat Block then back off a 1/4 turn
- tighten Heat Break into the Heat Block as far as it will go
- Heat Up and Tighten the Nozzle again (I have their torque wrench).
..But this leaves the copper of the heat break a Finger Nail off the Heat Block.
I can find to instructions on the Slice Web Site but it look like from the photos the Heat Break is fully screwed in and the Nozzle is slightly proud (opposite of the E3D), if so the process should simply be
- tighten the Heat Break into the Heat Block all the way
- tighten the Nozzle into the Heat Black as far as it will go
It would also explain why I've broken the Heat Insulators and possible deformed the top of the filament tube. 🙁
I've also got a spare Magnum Heat break and it will pass the filament. Now to just get the correct Hex Driver and finish the rebuild!