Enclosure Dimensions  

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

I don't have an answer for your dimensions (I don't have an enclosure and I'm too lazy to go downstairs and measure my printer), but when looking at clearance issues also take into account clearance for the heater bed cable. The Lack enclosure plans actually include a replacement backshell for the bed heater cables that change the routing from directly out the back to a different direction because the Lack enclosure is actually slightly too small for that clearance. Though I wonder if it wouldn't be if the front doors were redesigned to allow what I think you are looking to do where the display sticks out the front. Have you checked that the bed doesn't overhang over the display when all the way forward? Again, I'm too lazy to check on my printer, but since this is your project you should check on yours.

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

The Lack enclosure is at the back to small, and at the left side also to small.

Also make a door , at the right hand side, then you can look inside the extruder without taken the printer outside the enclosure.

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

Forcing me to stick up for the Lack enclosure.

I find the size is perfect. Good access all around, and if I want a different view, I have a lit mechanics mirror that works well.

If I wanted the display outside the enclosure - I would relocate the display. Then you can mount it wherever you want.

Biggest problem I have is people putting things on the lid. Kind of defeats opening the lid. Well that, and my filament spool lives on the lid.

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

I saw an enclosure (I think on Thingiverse) for a Mk3 that was purpose built and had double doors at the front with cutouts such that the control box was outside the enclosure.

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

Posted by: @towlerg

I saw an enclosure (I think on Thingiverse) for a Mk3 that was purpose built and had double doors at the front with cutouts such that the control box was outside the enclosure.

Interesting. Do you have a link for that enclosure?

Regarding having the display stick out through a cutout in the door, this wouldn't work without an extension mount for the display module. I checked on my printer and found that with the bed fully forward it covered about half of the display. I do have to admit that didn't pay close attention to how much of the print volume stuck out over the display, but I think that some did meaning that there would need to be an additional hole in the front door for the bed (reducing the effectiveness of the enclosure) and a reduced print volume to keep prints at the front of the bed from trying to open the doors.

Speaking of enclosures, I saw this low-cost DIY enclosure at ERRF:

I think the shape of the top was either from cardboard or MDF and was tear-dropped shaped with the point towards the front.

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

@sembazuru

I think this may be what he was referencing:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3656392

I think it's an interesting design. I plan on building it in the future although I will probably mount the display elsewhere. The display extension and door modifications could also potentially be used on a Lack build as well.

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

Yes that the one. A bit over engineered perhaps but nevertheless. More info http://www.rc-network.de/forum/showthread.php/716018-Prusa-i3-MK3/page6

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

I just relocated the display to the side of the lack with a clip on bracket. If I wanted to put it back on the front of the printer I could print a version of the same bracket that’s screwed to the lack but with fixing points to fit the old holes on the printer. The ribbon cables fit under the edge of the plastic normally and it’s perfectly accessible. 
sometimes simple is best 😊

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

@sembazuru

I hope you didn't over exert yourself going down stairs to check your printer.  I would have hated to been the cause of your burning a few calories.

With all seriousness, I think we both can agree that this build is not sufficient for elimination of fumes into the air and maybe good enough to maintain proper temperature for high temp filaments.

At least you contributed.

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

towlerg and nicholas-m12

Thank you for suggesting the thingiverse build but I have to agree with neophyle.

I tend to think of simplicity (least amount of parts), but practical (more solid than a photo lab bag).

I was already thinking of making fitted connections that run the length of each panel.  Yes that is a use of filament but they would be designed so you push the panels into the ridge (or however your term them in engineering lingo).  So instead of screws holding them together friction will if my supposed engineering skills are correct.  I also think the minute give of internal ridge flanges will help absorb excessive vibrations distributed from the frame.  I am thinking the only parts will be printed connectors and purchasing plexiglass. 

I think even sembazuru would attempt the build.

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

@mr-b

I agree with you, the aluminum frame is (expensive) overkill. I suspect the guy was going for high tech furniture. I was trying to provide an example of a possible way to have the control/display box outside the enclosure but still physically attached to the main frame. Personally I'm going to build in plywood (screwed and glued) with perspex doors. I imagine I'd use some of the printed parts in this project.

I'm conflicted about the location of the filament holder, inside or out?

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

Filament holder outside personally with an oval feed slot as the filament moves side to side and a single hole can kink the filament if the extruder is near max Z.

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

Towlerg I agree with neophyl . It would be logical to leave the filament holder outside because high internal temperatures could slowly have an affect on the unused filament.

If you guys could not imagine what I was talking about go on Tinkercad.com and look for “Flange connector” or search for person “bahar”.  That is my username and the part I created for public.  I created one part which will show you what I meant.  Towlerg using this method would eliminate the need for screws and glue and you can disassemble in the future.  You can make the connectors to fit plywood or you could adjust the width of the connector to fit a piece of plexiglass.

We Chan work together on a good diagram if you want and share the credit and post it on prusa design gallery.

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

@towlerg

I left comment regarding your build.  Please see the current post.

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

@mr-b and neophyl

I see your point re. filament inside but if I were to allow the enclosure to get hot enough to affect the filament, I suspect I would have other much more serious problems. My reason for considering putting the filament inside is to reduce moisture content in those materials that are hygroscopic.

mr-b If I understand correctly you are going build similar to the sbuerger design but using printed parts in the place of the aluminum extrusions? If so I guess you're going to need some way to join printed pieces together to get sufficient length? Looks like a great idea.

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

@mr-b

BTW I tried your suggested references, “Flange connector” or search for person “bahar”. There are 117 results for "flange connector" and a ton of users with "bahar" in there name.

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

@towlerg

I see your point in filament getting to much moisture so it would seem logical to house them inside after all because the heat from the internal temperatures is most likely going to be dry.  If there is an issue with internal moisture inside the box then one could always print a small dessicant box in the top corner somewhere that will old dessicant to dry out the air.

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

@towlerg

I'm sorry you were not able to find the image Tinkercads' search abilities seem to be lacking.  I thought it was just me when I tried to find it.  I thought maybe because I was the creator Tinkercad had not synched up the file for me to view yet.

Were you able to see the image in the image i inserted in the coment?

Regarding whether my build will be similar to sbeugeur.  I think the design I am thinking of is going to be much more efficient as I anticipate all one will need is panels and the printed connectors.  sbeugeur's build looks like the panels are held in place simply by sliding the panel into the aluminum rail then connecting all aluminum rails together with the printed connectors and screws.  This leads me to believe that the panels themselves may have slight movement inside the rails unless they were glued in or perfectly fit in the grooves.  I see this as a problem for builders who may not have access or ability to use glass panels and have to go with a less expensive material.  With this in mind, my design would accomoodate any size thickness of panel or material due to the ability to change size dimension using a cad program such as Tinkercad and printing them custom to your material.  When you adjust the width of the rail; the inner flanges would naturally adjust in size to compensate for the difference.  PETG inner flanges would hold up to slight bending when the panel gets pushed in as that slight bend of the flange against the panel is what holds the panel securely in the rail. One could try to print flexible filament (flanges) onto the PETG (rails), but I have never tried because I did not have a printer.

Today I was thinking of just what you pointed out in your comment about the prusa not being able to print the full length.  I came up with a solution to print the rails in segments with a female end and a male end to join the smaller rails together for the needed length.

Tonight I will be making a design of the rail with a block inserted to represent the panel to give you an idea. 

Then after seeing what I mean it will become clearer then you can help me to start tackling the issue of incorporating rails to accomodate display panel rails as well as filament hole rails now that you will have an idea.  It all starts with a basic concept then expands from there.

I have adult ADHD so it is difficult for me to a design on paper as my mind quickly makes adjustments on the fly so I just design realtime while working in Tinkercad.

As soon as I get the new part demo done I will reply with another post.

RE: Enclosure Dimensions

Seems like an interesting idea. Also at the corners, rather than join printed "extrusions" with separate corner pieces, they (the corner pieces) could be incorporated into the "extrusions".

Unfortunatley I don't have a 3d printer as yet, but I wonder if some kind soul could report the feasability (and strength, which I realise will be subjective) of printing 20x20 stock in PETG?