do you guys use nozzles from spool3d, tungsten carbide!  

RE: do you guys use nozzles from spool3d, tungsten carbide!

@guy-k2

That would be a great trial and error approach.  If a brass nozzle does not leak, your problem is the Tungsten Nozzle.  If they both leak, then it is something else.  

RE: do you guys use nozzles from spool3d, tungsten carbide!

@guy-k2

that is kinda the plan was going to try the stock brass nozzle if it leaks next time i usually get leaks 1-2 weeks after printing with the new heat block....and if for some reason even the brass nozzle leaks then i have ordered some new un-used block/break/nozzle all new to try it on......

at first i believed it was my assembly that was wrong, and was going on the assumptions i need to fix something in my assembly but its unknown now.

few chats ago with prusa one theory/conclusion was that i print regularly with PETG and i have not done cold pulls when printing with PETG so that is one thing i am trying to see, if it will help, doing cold pulls every 1-2 days after printing.

what is your take on this, if you dont do cold pulls when printing with PETG lot will that cause issue or doing a cold pull is a must with petg?

also the other theory was the heat block may have accidentally moved at one point at high temp loosening the seal and hence when i tried to test to see if the nozzle was lose by turning a nozzle gently with a towel in had at temp 250+ the nozzle came loose easy. but i have not noticed no more movement when tightening then in this video 

i dont turn the nozzle right like in this video then turn it back, i just keep it where it is and when i get clicks with my torque wrench at 23-25 in-Lb then i release block with my spanner

so i was wondering when you hold the block with a spanner should it have no movement at all absolute zero due to torque,  but even in the video when tightening the nozzle there is small movement/vibration back an forth vary little due to torque,  i do have movement similer to the ones in the video and a cold pull dosent show a gap 

so i was just wondering should there be Zero movement or small movement/vibration due to applying torque are ok, like the ones in vid(probably less then fraction of a mm)?

RE: do you guys use nozzles from spool3d, tungsten carbide!

Strip your heaterblock heat break and nozzle and inspect the mating faces of the nozzle and heat break, they should both be flat and free of any filament deposits.

Get a candle and stick the end of the heat break and nozzle where they meet into the flame just for a second so they both get soot on them.

Screw the part together in the block and tighten.

Now unscrew again and you should see a nice shiny ring on both faces, if there is still a part that is matt, then your faces are not parallel and therefore not sealing together properly.

RE: do you guys use nozzles from spool3d, tungsten carbide!

Posted by: @chocki

Strip your heaterblock heat break and nozzle and inspect the mating faces of the nozzle and heat break, they should both be flat and free of any filament deposits.

Get a candle and stick the end of the heat break and nozzle where they meet into the flame just for a second so they both get soot on them.

Screw the part together in the block and tighten.

Now unscrew again and you should see a nice shiny ring on both faces, if there is still a part that is matt, then your faces are not parallel and therefore not sealing together properly.

i was thinking of doing this at a earlier point, but doing a cold pull show you the same thing if there is a gap between nozzle and heat break?

or with the candle trick it would show some other issue with seal not gap, you can do a cold pull which may show no gaps but still have the 2 parts not be parallel?

RE: do you guys use nozzles from spool3d, tungsten carbide!

I prefer the following nozzles:

1. M2 by Microswiss
2. Nozzle X by e3D
3. Tungsten Nozzles
4. Hardened steel nozzles
5. Vanadium Nozzle

I prefer #2 right now because of the best availability and function.  

RE: do you guys use nozzles from spool3d, tungsten carbide!

@muo

Same problem with same nozzle. Did you solved the issue? I tried with an E3D heatblock and a Mosquito Hotend. Same problem of leaking on both hotend. I also used boron nitrite paste and it solve a little bit, but after sever hours printing PETG it start to leak.

RE: do you guys use nozzles from spool3d, tungsten carbide!

Posted by: @cwbullet

I have one installed on my printer right now.

Other good nozzle options:

1. Midwest Tungsten Nozzle
2. Microswiss A2 Tool Steel Nozzle
3. Microswiss M2 Nozzle - currently sold out on Amazon
4. Slice Engineering Vanadium Nozzles

Charles, I'd like to thank you for compulsively buying every option out there and trying it. You've saved me quite a bit of money and budgetary stress!

Would you say that such nozzles show any actual print improvement? Or do they allow you to do things you couldn't do with other nozzles? My impression is that these are a "nice to have" but not necessarily the 1st thing to swap out in pursuit of improved prints. I don't print with exotic materials though.

For now, I'm happy with using plated nozzles for non-abrasives, and something like Nozzle-X or hardened for abrasives. I love the 3D Solex nozzles on my Mk3 for volume printing.

RE: do you guys use nozzles from spool3d, tungsten carbide!

@bobstro

I will give you my honest and unbiased view.  I have not been paid or received discounts to review these products.  I like to tinker so I buy parts to experiment.  

Nozzles:  I really like Slice Engineering Vanadium and e3D Nozzle X.  I am not sure if they last longer but I assume they last longer with abrasive filaments.  Do I have proof?....no. I bought into the abrasive resistent pitch of some of the manufacturers.  I bought some based on the word of others.  Time will tell if they last longer.  My first MK3S is still using the first nozzle or the one it shipped with.  I have swapped it out to test others, but quickly went back.  Vanadium and Tungsten have slightly different thermal properties, but I was able to adjust.  

Print quality?  I have not seen much of a difference.  Heck, I bought a box of 25 cheap e3D knockoff nozzles and they seem work as well as any.  A bad nozzle can come from any manufacturer.  I have had them from e3D and the knockoffs.  I have not had one from Slice Engineering but that is probably because I only have had 3-5 from them.  

Materials:

1. Brass is probably the standard.  I have yet to have any degradation of quality.  One or two are atleast 16-18 months or older.  They simple work.  
2. Stainless steel seems to be less sticky to filaments and should last longer with Abrasives.  I have one installed on one printer.  It took me a while to get used to the thermal properties.  
3. Hardened steel reportedly less sensative to abrasive.  I have one that is nearly 3 years old with out wear.  They may be a little more sticky to filament.  
4. Ruby or Saphire are specialty nozzle and I one one ruby.  I have not seen a difference.  I think they are a waste of money.
5. Copper plated nozzles are supposed to have better thermal properties.  I have one and I am still trying to decide.  
6. Vanadium and tungsten should be more abrasive resistence.  I have found them to much less sticky to filament and time will tell if they are last longer.   

For most users, I would recommend standard brass.  You can buy 10 nozzles fromt the price of one of these.  Just use them till they wear out.  

RE: do you guys use nozzles from spool3d, tungsten carbide!

Thanks Charles, I'd just add my pennies worth.

I found PETG sticks to brass like the proverbial poo to a blanket, but not to the nickel plated copper nozzle, and since most of my printing is PETG, this is what I tend to use.

If using PLA, brass is ideal, it just works (Except glow in the dark, that stuff is just abrasive as heck).

RE: do you guys use nozzles from spool3d, tungsten carbide!

Same problem here, Tungsten Carbide from Spool3d coming loose and leaking (i3 Mk3S+ printing PETG). I've replaced parts to try and fix it, ensured the top of the nozzle was clean and flat, tightened very tight, but 10-30 hours of printing later it's loose again and leaking.

I also saw this thread:

https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/f9wd7e/anyone_else_having_trouble_with_spool3d_tungsten/

Giving up and going back to a Nozzle X!

Spool3D

I have been using a .4mm tungsten carbide nozzle from Spool3D for over a year now with no problems. I basically haven't touched it since I installed it along with an E3D plated copper heat block back in July 2020. I've printed everything from PLA to CF PC Blend, as well as glass filled nylon and CF filled nylon.

One thing to note though is that both 3DMakerEngineering and Spool3D seem to have been sold out of the V6/M6 nozzles for quite some time now.

Yes

I have been using the 3D maker engineering nozzles for many, many spools. CF nylon, glass fiber nylon, Kevlar nylon, no issues.  Very tough.

they do go out of stock.  Sign up for email notification.  They seem to just burp them out.  I didn’t wait but maybe a week or two.   But, to me, completely worth it.