Simplify3D  

Re: Simplify3D

which is the best piece of music, which is the best painting ?
will say: the decision which settings are "the best" has to be made by yourself.

in my opinion one of the best are josefs "Original Prusa i3 MK2 RC4.fff", matteo.s2's settings and phillipp.m's "Original Prusa i3 MK2 MlePh 2016 09 09.fff".
i think you'll find them inside this thread at page#1 and page#21.

Re: Simplify3D

Hi,

Thanks, I understand that I will need to tweak the settings none the less I would have thought their was a good starting point or some sort of reference.

Regards,
Serge

Re: Simplify3D

Is it possible to program 9 point calibration prior to heating up? Most info says calibration should be done cold. I was able to program this in slic3r but all the custom code in Simplify3D happens after heating

Re: Simplify3D

Actually, you want to calibrate when it's hot. The temperature can make a difference and give inaccurate measurements if you measure it cold but print hot.

Here's my simplify3D startup code:


M115 U3.0.9 ; use the latest firmware version

G28 W ; home all without mesh bed leveing
G80 ; mesh bed leveling
G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line
G1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line


Re: Simplify3D

... Most info says calibration should be done cold...

most info says: calibration should be done while the p.i.n.d.a. probe is recently cold.
the main problem here is not the hotend (especially when you use a blue silicone sock), which heats up quite quickly, it's the heated bed.

but if your x-carriage is located only a few mm over the heatbed for a while while heating up slowly (especially to high themperatures used for PETG & ABS), then the p.i.n.d.a. has enough time to heat up as well and you'll get other readings than with a cold probe.

so it's a good idea to lift up the probe 10cm before starting to print.... and if you then use the approach that jediknight0 has described above and PJR here. you should get recurring valid readings from the probe.

➡ another idea, but i don't know if it'll have any drawbacks:
can you do a "calibrate z" before printing manually and print (& slice) the *.gcodes without G80 ?

Re: Simplify3D

can you do a "calibrate z" before printing manually and print (& slice) the *.gcodes without G80 ?

Yes, it is possible to print models without a G80, but really it's not a good idea in case something has moved ever-so-slightly and you forget to calibrate before printing. This is certainly not a method I would use.

G80 is best run with bet at operating temperature, otherwise the bed expansion will not be consistent and first layer adhesion will vary. So as mentioned previously, it is better to heat up the bed with the Z axis high, then run G80.

Peter

Re: Simplify3D

... otherwise the bed expansion will not be consistent and first layer adhesion will vary....
hmmm.... the heatbed has a thickness of 3.2mm. an inconsistency of 10µm should be somehow noticeable. assuming a temperature rise from 20°C to 120°C this would need an expansion coefficient of about 31 ((10E-6)/K). copper has about the half of it (but there is only about 6x 35µm copper to take in account). all the pertinax or epoxyd based carrier materials lay in a range between 10 and 40.....

➡ ok, the heatbed expansion, due to a 100° heatup will be noticeable, if you are niggling... just.
but +/- 10µm won't loose the war about adhesion 😉 .

I'll bet that the error, provided by a heated up p.i.n.d.a. probe will be in another magnitude .

Re: Simplify3D

+/- 10µm won't loose the war about adhesion 😉
Well, I think there is actually other reason to calibrate on heated printer - it's quite important to soften any material peeking out of the nozzle to prevent damage of the PEI sheet or ruining the calibration.
How I prepare the printer for printing (starting gcode):
1. heat up the bed (nozzle is cold), keep extruder at least 100mm above the bed
2. heat up the nozzle to 170
3. calibrate Z
4. heat up the nozzle to printing temperature

Heating the bed in first step and keeping it warm all the time helps the heat to spread equally.

Re: Simplify3D

So interestingly I have done two very nice prints using matteo.s2 FFF profile for Simplify3D. What I have noticed is at the after the prints. When I go to resume a new print my extruder/nozzle is stuck. This has never happened before but now seems to be happening systematically after a print with the profile. Could be its purely a coincidence but its strange.... wondering if it has something to do with the GCCode run at the end of the print. I will keep playing around.

Re: Simplify3D

Where are you programming this to do every time, or do you edit the code manually?

Actually, you want to calibrate when it's hot. The temperature can make a difference and give inaccurate measurements if you measure it cold but print hot.

Here's my simplify3D startup code:


M115 U3.0.9 ; use the latest firmware version

G28 W ; home all without mesh bed leveing
G80 ; mesh bed leveling
G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line
G1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line


Re: Simplify3D

Put it under the 'Scripts' tab and replace the existing 'Starting Script'.