Z-axis calibration
Omg I am so frustrated with this printer lol. I keep getting back to back issues. After spending almost $200 in parts and shipping, I finally fixed my e3d hotend (The cost was high because I bought lots of spares).
I was able to do one successful print, and now my Z-axis is all messed up. When I do a Z-calibration, the extruder keeps pushing so far down into the build plate it leaves dents in the plate. Im pretty sure my build plate is ruined as well now.
The only thing I did after I fixed my e3d v6 hotend, was applied BuildTak. After applying the BuildTak I did a bed calibration and everything worked fine for 1 print. Now I just tried a 2nd print and the machine is going nuts. It seems like it lost track of all the axis. I reran the bed calibration and during the calibration its ramming the extruder all the way past the end point on the x and z-axis.
I also did a factory reset, then did a new bed calibration and its still going nuts and leaving dents in the build plate.
Now I have dents all over the build plate and when it goes to print the item the z-axis is about 2.5 inches in the air!
The only thing I can think of is the BuildTak is interfering with the PINDA prob and throwing off the auto-leveling system.
Since I just applied the BuildTak really do not want to remove it and waste the $10 I spend per sheet. Does anyone know what the problem could be? Is it the BuildTak? Has anyone had any issues using BuildTak and beta firmware 3.0.4?
Finally, the PINDA prob and the auto-leveling system seems to be the weakest part of the i3 MK2. Is there a way to turn off the PINDA prob and auto-leveling feature completely and just find a way to manually keep the bed level?
Thanks,
~Kaizers
Re: Z-axis calibration
Kai
First upgrade the firmware to 3.0.5 RC. It has its own sticky thread in the Mk2 area.
Second, you need to ensure that the probe is not too far away from the bed; your application of another layer on top of the PEI sheet will be invisible to the probe which will still reference the nozzle to the bed inserts. You will need to adjust for this.
With the machine cold and a clean nozzle (no blobs of plastic stuck on the end) reset the live Z adjust to zero and use settings/auto home. The nozzle may hit the bed (but there should be no damage...)
You need to get to a point where you can slide a piece of copy paper between the bed and the nozzle by adjusting the probe height - not the live Z adjust.
For this, you will need to raise Z, adjust probe, autohome and check repeatedly until you can feel a light drag on the paper.
Now you will be relatively "safe" so you can run V2Calibration and use the Z live adjust for final adjustments and then run the X/Y calibration.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Z-axis calibration
Hi Peter,
I did as you recommended, updated firmware to 3.0.5, then I did AutoHome, and adjusted the PINDA probe so that the top of my clean nozzle dragged on a piece of paper. Once I completed that I did an Z-calibration which failed. The middle right sensor isnt registering and its smashing the nozzle into the bed.
I then ran the X/Y calibration and that also failed on the same middle right sensor.
Also through all my autohome and z/x/y calibration the extruder is being rammed against the left most x-axis for a long time, like almost 10-15 seconds. I dont know if this means my endtops arnt working, but in the self-test it shows it as being OK.
As a last ditch effort im thinking I will just need to remove my buildtak sheet. It sucks because I just blew $34 bucks on a 3 pack, but right now my printer is not even usable, and I am afraid I am causing major harm to the motors and nozzle from all the impact and crazyness of my x/y sensors being so off.
If you have any other ideas I am open to them. If not ill just remove the buildtak in a couple of days.
Thank you,
~Kaizers
Re: Z-axis calibration
Kai
I believe the self-test routines may not test the positional functionality of the end stops; simply the fact that they appear to be connected properly.
I think the end-stops are configured "normally closed" and only open when pressed, so presence and connection can be tested when the axes are away from the stops.
If your X axis is not triggering the end stop then that needs to be fixed first; you may still be able to use your build tak.
Turn the printer off and move the X axis to the stop by hand. you should hear a "click" when the end stop triggers. You can use a multimeter to further check change in continuity at the end stop.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Z-axis calibration
Thanks for the tip Peter.
I ended up manually pushing the x-axis all the way to the end stop and it didn't click it at all. Somehow something must have shifted because it used to hit the end-stop perfectly fine before.
I losened the x-axis end-stop and tried to push it as far forward as possible, but even then it still wouldnt register the click. I ended up resorting applying some of my extra BuildTak to the part on the extruder that is supposed to hit the end stop. PRUSA do not recommend doing this because it can off-set the prob, but this was the only way I could get the endstop to register a click.
I then removed the BuildTak, upgraded to FW 3.0.6RC2 and ran X/Y calibration (Which failed the first 3x), after the 4th time, it finally passed and now im back up and running.
Thank you,
~Kaizers