The Olsson Ruby nozzle installation tip!
Hi all,
I recently installed an Olsson Ruby nozzle as I print abrasive filaments and found that those eat up a normal nozzles like crazy.
If you buy the Olsson Ruby nozzle (which is an awesome nozzle for people who prints with abrasive material, this includes glow-in-the-dark PLA)
When installing you will have to lower the heat break. Although it says that the nozzle is compatible with the E3D extruder (mk2/s) it is actually 1 to 1.5 mm shorter. This means it leaves a gap between the nozzle and the heat break. When you print, this will become apparent as small globs of (black if burned) filament will ooze out of the top of the heater block down on your print.
You will need to disassemble the extruder part of the printer. Remove the old nozzle according to the manual or watch one of Tom's youtube guides ( https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer ).
Screw in the ruby nozzle all the way to the block (don't fully tighten it!) now unscrew the nozzle slowly until you have about 1mm of space between your nozzle and the block. Screw in the heat break until you hit the nozzle (you won't be able to go any further).
Heat up your nozzle and tighten it a bit more if there is some play in the nozzle.
Re-calibrate your printer!
The gap should now be closed and no leaking should occur.
Enjoy your new nozzle.
Re: The Olsson Ruby nozzle installation tip!
Hmmm no gap here, printing perfectly. My z did not even need much more adjustment. Maybe an issue with yours.
Re: The Olsson Ruby nozzle installation tip!
Yeah it depends how you have build the extruder and how your heat break has been installed.
But I have seen more people on this forum and on Reddit that had this problem So i figured to help people out and make aware that this could potentially happen when installing it.
Re: The Olsson Ruby nozzle installation tip!
I just finished reinstalling a ruby nozzle - the nozzle leaked just as it is mentioned in the original post. IMHO (in my humble opinion) the leaks do more damage than just being cosmetic - all that material is supposed to go on the print, not being wasted. I guess that's the reason I got a poor quality on several prints.
I compared the length of the two nozzles - brass and ruby. Overall length is the same, however, the thread length on the brass nozzle is indeed about 1mm longer than the ruby nozzle. It was easy to see it: the brass nozzle was not seating on the heat block - there was a 0.4mm gap between the hexagon and the heat block - whereas the ruby nozzle was screwing in completely. Upon re-installation, I kept a 0.5mm gap between the ruby nozzle and heat block. (I use feeler gauges for all my measurements.) The result: No more leaks, and great printouts.
In order to adjust the heat breaker to match the nozzle, I had to disassemble the extruder, and clean the threads on the nozzle, heat block, and heat breaker (the part that goes into the heat block). Otherwise, it was very difficult to adjust it while the whole thing was hot and mounted...and risking breaking the wires.
BTW, thanks, sebastiaan for the tip! I would've spend a lot of time online searching for a solution if it weren't for your post. 🙂
RE: The Olsson Ruby nozzle installation tip!
A preinstalled ruby nozzle would be nice. That little bit more money is worth not playing around with nozzle problems over and over again.
RE: The Olsson Ruby nozzle installation tip!
I ran into the same issue. I'm new to 3D printing and wanted the Olsson Ruby. I only printed a few items after initial kit build on a MK3s and then switched over to the Prusa purchased Ruby. The prints came out great for a short time then I started getting ooze on my prints sometimes big enough to cause crash detection. After reading up on hot end setup (the hot end was pre-setup by Prusa) I did notice that the nozzle was hard against the heat block. I disassembled the extruder and pulled the hotend. I had to leave it connected so I could heat it up because off all the goo everywhere. I ran a new non-Ruby nozzle into the block to clean the threads and noticed that it had the required gap. Ran the Ruby back in and it seated on the block. Problem explained. The Ruby is not identical. A lot of time and angst could be avoided if Prusa would setup the hotend with the break a little deeper in the block or at least include a card with Ruby(s) they sell telling you to be aware of the setup change required to run an Olsson Ruby.