Severely Skewed...and a pop
Hello All,
I've been nursing my little Mk2 beastie for nearly a week now and seem to have endless calibration issues. Getting a bit frustration and need some encouragement.
When I first completed the build it claimed everything was square and good, then somewhere along the lines while fiddling with the PINDA probe it decided that it couldn't find the front calibration points and/or the bed was severely skewed.
After pretty much stripping down the machine, and putting it back together my most recent calibration reported that the bed is severely skewed but it can compensate.
What does severely skewed actually mean? Because when I look straight down on the printer using the X axis smooth rods as a guide, my build plate is very-very square. Does orientation of the PINDA probe, along with distance make some kind of difference? Now that I think about it, could skew refer to level and there is a tilt in my plate I haven't noticed?
So even in the skewed state I figured I would try to do the print calibration. When I set the machine to preheat for PLA there was a pop and the LCD went blank and the machine appeared dead. So clearly I buggered something up with the wiring.
I just need to know next steps to make sure I don't screw it up further. I've disconnected everything from the RAMBo board, and then plugged in just power and the LCD screens and it now turns on. I looked at all the fuses on the board and the power supply, I think I see anything 'blown'. Do I just plug things in one item at a time and run self test step-by-step and see how it goes?
Cheers!
Kevin
Re: Severely Skewed...and a pop
Did you run the selftest before calibrating?
Re: Severely Skewed...and a pop
Did you run the selftest before calibrating?
No, I got a little cocky I guess. I ran it when I first assembled, but didn't run it after stripping the machine down and back again.
I'm trying to put the electrics back together now and I can't get the LCDs to light up. Apparently I've made a mess of things.
Re: Severely Skewed...and a pop
Looks like I managed to blow a fuse on the RAMBo board. Dug my old multi-meter out and one of the 5 amp fuses has no continuity. So I need to go find a replacement.
Not familiar with these components but basic web search suggests these are standard 'blade automotive' fuses, is that right?
Re: Severely Skewed...and a pop
Looks like I managed to blow a fuse on the RAMBo board.
Oh man how lucky can you be! Yeah, just go to autozone and get some car fuses.
Re: Severely Skewed...and a pop
Woohoo!
After replacing the blown fuse, I redid the wiring and everything started to work. My calibration decided to go to 'slightly skewed' instead of severely skewed. I tried to print Marvin and it came out really well, at least based on my noob-ish knowledge level.
Re: Severely Skewed...and a pop
Woohoo!
After replacing the blown fuse, I redid the wiring and everything started to work. My calibration decided to go to 'slightly skewed' instead of severely skewed. I tried to print Marvin and it came out really well, at least based on my noob-ish knowledge level.
Re: Severely Skewed...and a pop
Here is my own kit build experience with having the bed reported as "severely skewed". I do not know if this consistent with what others have or will experience. When I got the "severely skewed" message it was a little bit of a point of pride and also a desire to eliminate as many potential issues with the hardware as possible before starting my first print to try to fix the alignment. I attempted to visually align the rods and the bed and could not really discern a problem. I checked the rods against all of the lines printed on the bed. However I have worn eyeglasses for over 50 years so I did not want to rely only on my vision alone.
Because I already had one, I placed a small machinist square on a piece of paper (to protect the bed) and used it to test the print lines versus the rod. I did find there was a skew and the left side frame (in my case) did need to be moved back very slightly. I loosed the the nuts and moved the front nut back 1/3 of a turn or two sides of the hexagonal nut, and re-tighten everything. When I reran the calibration tests I received the "congratulations" message.
One-third of a thread across the distance of a 250 mm bed may not seem "severely skewed" but I guess this one reason the i3 mk2 does such as good job once it is dialed in.