SD card not working  

Re: SD card not working

The printer will only see .gcode files. You copied .gcode files to the root directory of the card?

The card must be FAT32, so it can't show some special characters(?). Make sure your filename is FAT32 compliant.

I really can't think of anything else to try...

Re: SD card not working

I admit I am not tech savvy, so please be patient with me. What is a gcode file and how can I make it a gcode file? Also, how do I copy these files to the root directory? All I did was drag and drop, was that not right?

Re: SD card not working

You drag and drop the file to the card. That is correct.

A slicer is a program that turns a 3D model (typically a .stl file) into the commands that the printer needs to run, which is gcode, and typically has a .gcode extension. The files that came with the printer on the card are all ThisIsMyName.gcode

If you copied .stl files to the card the printer cannot see them. You need to use a program like Slic3r to convert them to 3D printed commands .gcode.

Re: SD card not working

Ok, I will download Slic3r to convert my .stl files. Thank you so much! I hope it works.

Re: SD card not working

You should use the Slic3r from Prusa. It comes with default setting for the MK2(s).

http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/

It is included in the "Drivers" distribution on the left side of the page.

There is a bit of a learning curve with Slic3r (and any other slicer like Cura, KISS, Simplify3D etc). But worth it.

For a beginner, you might want to try Prusa's PrusaControl:

http://prusacontrol.org

I have not used it, but it designed to be a beginner's version of Slic3r.

Re: SD card not working

Based on your question, I am assuming you are new at 3D Printing. Here are some tips for getting started:

Here is my starter advice for getting your printer going well, and avoiding some of the common frustration inducing issues.

1) Run the Self Test from the menu. Make sure everything is connected correctly.

2) Make sure PINDA is above nozzle tip by <1mm but above the nozzle. About 0.6mm is a good starting point, which is about the thickness of a credit card. Place a sheet of paper on the bed, and run the XYZ Calibration from the menu. Stay with the machine, and watch it. As it hunts for the calibration points, watch if the paper moves. If it does, STOP THE PRINTER. That means the nozzle is dragging and the PINDA sensor is a bit too high, lower it and try again, but make sure it is still higher than the nozzle tip. Repeat until you have a good XYZ Calibration. (Note the instructions on the XYZ calibration, and make sure the nozzle tip is clean.)

3) Set your Live Adjust Z roughly correct.
a) Set Live adjust Z = 0.00. (XYZ Cal does this).
b) Do a Calibrate Z. (Head must be clean of drips and lumps).
c) Do a Home. This leaves the head at Z=0.15mm
d) Use Setting -> Move Axis X and Y to get in the approx center of the print space. DONT TOUCH Z.
e) Put a piece of printer paper under the head. Printer paper is approx 0.1mm
f) Wiggle the paper while adjusting "Live Adjust Z" (in settings) until the paper just starts to drag on the paper.
g) Back off a bit (50) on the “Live Adjust Z"

4) Load some filament.
a) Make sure the tension screws are about 14mm from the body with no filament in the extruder. (This is looser than is intuitive for most people. Too tight or too loose will cause issues.)
b) Heat the extruder. You can do this with pre-heat or settings->temperature.
c) Use Load Filament from the menu. Continue until you have a nice thin strand coming from the extruder.
d) Cool it back down.

5) Make sure the bed is very clean.
a) Wipe with as pure an isopropyl alcohol (IPA) as you can find. The little toweletts are not enough in my opinion. Use (and re-use) a paper towel and a good squirt of IPA.
b) (If really dirty, you can use Windex followed by Acetone followed by IPA, but that should only happen if you had used glue stick or other things on the bed and want to really clean it off). I do this if I am changing materials.

6) Get your Live Adjust Z dialed in real well.
a) Print using "Calibration_surface_PLA_75x75@200um_v4.gcode" found in Jeff's "Life Adjust My Way" Thread (Read through page 7 or so till you see the .v4 code. Look at the pictures.)
http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/prusa-i3-kit-building-calibrating-first-print-main-f6/life-adjust-z-my-way-t2981-s150.html
b) Repeat until you have a nice test print - all stuck together and one nice clean sheet.

7) Do the PID calibrations for the bed and the extruder from the calibration menu.

8) Print a few of the included gcode files. Start with the Prusa logo. The gears are a great test and fun thing to have.

9) Start with a few things on Thingiverse that are easy. Learn how to use the slicer of your choice (I like Slic3r, but there are many options and opinions and all have pros and cons). Start with things that don’t need supports. Trust me, supports should come in after you have good confidence in your printer and yourself. I suggest a Benchy as a great test print to make sure your printer is dialed in correctly. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622

10) Start designing your own things. Learn supports settings. Try different filament types.

BUT THE MOST IMPORTANT ADVICE: Don’t get frustrated. You WILL run into problems. Search this forum. Read. If you can’t find your answer in 10-15 minutes, post a question. This is a very supportive group that will likely get you going again. If you solve the problem, assume someone else will run into that problem as well, and follow up your question with the answer. There are many people who read these and don’t post, and your solution could help them.