Print shifting  

Re: Print shifting

Hi Todd

Firstly don't despair! I have both a clone and an Prusa i3 original. I can assure you that although the clone is good, the print quality of the i3 is significantly better.

If you think the X-Axis is binding somewhere, remove the belt and make sure the extruder moves left and right easily. If it does not, you will find a problem with the build; possibly the mounting of the bearings. If the bearings are not running smoothly, you may have to replace one or two of them, but this is unlikely.

When you ensure the X Axis is free-running, replace the belt and ensure that it is tight. You need to be able to play it like a guitar string, although I could not possibly advise you which note to try to achieve!

You also need to check that the drive gear on the motor is aligned on the X motor.

Also check the Y axis belt tightness and alignment at both ends.

Please do the above, re-check endstop positions and run a test print then let us know the outcome.

Peter

Re: Print shifting

Todd

Looking at your third photo (the printer), I see that you have "sprung-loaded" the bed, rather than using the "original" instructions.

I wonder if this is allowing movement of the bed in the opposite direction to the extruder movement?

Any chance you could revert to the "original" configuration for testing before modding?

Peter

EDIT: Also, I see you have the feed rate set to 165%. Faster you print the more inaccuracies there will be. Have patience, young sir!

Re: Print shifting

Thanks for the fast reply. I have gotten rid of the spring mount because it wasn'working and went back to the original config. I have been making sure that the flow rate is 100 and not to exceed 50mm for print speed i stick with about 40 on normal .2 quality. I will try the reccomended info you posted.

Re: Print shifting

Hi Todd

Try what I have suggested and please report back. If you still don't have any luck, can I suggest that you contact PR and give them a link to this thread.

Best way to contact them initially is via the "Live Chat" on the shop site.

Peter

Re: Print shifting

I bet you don't have the belt pulley tight enough on the rod.

Re: Print shifting

PJR

Thank you so much, i had the X belt too tight causing it to skip affecting the X and Z axis. Now i just need to get better at leveing my bed. i did 2 prints and they came out good. Next question i don't like slic3r all that much can you recommend a different one that works with the Original Prus?

Re: Print shifting

Hi Todd

There are 2 slicers I use which work well for me: KISSlicer and Cura. However I use Cura V15.04.2 as I have issues with the later versions.

KISSlicer allows me better control and results in better quality print. Cura is very quick and easy to use, so I use this when I don't need precise prints.

Both are free, although KISSlicer does have a low-cost "PRO" version, which I have, but only for the purpose of supporting the developer and not because it is necessary.

KISS does require more knowledge to use properly, but I found it a great way to learn.

Regarding calibration. I do things a little differently, but if you get an approximate calibration, you can then use a raft to print on. Rafts are very useful; they help the part to stick to the bed and they are very tolerant towards not-quite-level beds.

Peter

Re: Print shifting

Would you mind sharing your Cura settings/profile?

I've tried setting Cura up using the settings from the version of Slic3r that comes with the Prusa drivers as a guide but I haven't got everything quite right and prints aren't great.

Re: Print shifting

Hi Markus

Below is my Cura INI file (Zipped). This is for printing PLA at layer height of 0.15 with first layer at 0.25 and no raft/support.

Please note that I do not expect results with Cura to be as good as with KISS, but generally they are acceptable.

Peter

Re: Print shifting

If you think Kisslicer is better then would you mind sharing your ini files for that also?

I'd like to check out the different slicers to get a feel for how each handles different jobs.

The more I read about slicer the more I'm starting to think that there is no one solution for all. Each slicer seems to work well in certain situations.

Re: Print shifting

Hi Markus

Sorry, I missed your message earlier.

I have attached my KISSlicer settings, including a thin wall calibration instruction. Please note that the settings will differ from printer to printer.

You really do need to play around with this slicer; there are so many things to change and what works for me may not work for you.

Have fun playing...

Peter

Re: Print shifting

Well I tried the KISSlicer settings and went through the calibration process in the PDF file. Here's the result. I also tightened all the pulleys and the shift I was experiencing is definitely better.

Here's an example of a print I just did using 0.10 detail.

Re: Print shifting

Hi Markus

That looks OK, but not as good as I would expect.

As you have done the calibration, at least we know that the precise amount of filament is being extruded. I think Josef needs to have a look at your photo and make his suggestions.

Peter

Re: Print shifting

Yes I would love some feedback on the print in the picture to see what else needs to be adjusted.

One thing I plan on doing is taking the X axis apart again and tightening the belt a little more. It is fairly tight but it sounds more like a bass guitar string when you pull it and let go. the Y axis on the other hand sounds very much like a normal guitar string when pulled and let go. I'll make sure the X axis is just as tight.

Thanks for all the help so far Peter, its much appreciated.

Re: Print shifting

Hi Markus

The belt not being quite tight enough can cause the banding.

Last evening, I found that my printer was feeding too much filament, which can have a similar effect.

Have a look at the attached document. You can amend the material "Flow Tweak" parameter within KISS and if this is required for all materials, change the Extruder Gain in Hardware/Extruder tab.

Peter

Re: Print shifting

Hi, PJR is kinda right.

The calibration cannot be 100%, the filaments are manufactured with 0.05+-mm tolerance and the drive gears are ever so slightly different from piece to piece.

You can try lower the flow a tiny bit in Slic3r. See attached screenshot where I set 98% of the ideal plastic volume 🙂