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Re: Y-carriage warped/bowed since arrival.

Hi

I don't think anything is supposed to fit directly on top of the y-axis frame, so it shouldn't be too much of a problem if it is slightly bowed.

I wonder if you have the Z axis end-stop slightly too low? If you could raise that a few millimetres, slacken off the nuts holding the heated bed to give a little play and then re-assemble the hot bed that may result in a working printer.

Other than this, can you please post some photos to assist diagnosis, or contact PR directly - initially use the "live chat" facility on the shop pages.

Peter

Re: Y-carriage warped/bowed since arrival.

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Re: Y-carriage warped/bowed since arrival.

OK then, I think your best bet is to contact PR directly as previously suggested.

I am currently using a Chinese clone and the hot bed acrylic frame is warped quite badly, but by careful adjustment of the heater screws/nuts I have been able to get the (aluminium) bed level to within about 0.05mm. I did have to open out the holes in the frame by 0.5mm though, but this has caused other issues - there is very slight X-Y movement whilst printing larger parts so I would not advise going in that direction...

Peter

Re: Heatbed warped/bowed since arrival.

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Re: Heatbed warped/bowed since arrival.

Hi

Not sure about this but can the hot bed be installed upside down? If so, that would be a temporary fix...

Have you tried flexing the hot bed? I seem to recall reading somewhere that it can be flexed a bit to level it.

Peter

Re: Heatbed warped/bowed since arrival.

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Re: Heatbed warped/bowed since arrival.

No it can't be flipped, well not without some work as the thermistor is well taped on.

I tried flexing it but it didn't help. The warping makes the screws out of alignment just enough to make it hard to get it level as well. I don't think it helps that to raise bed close enough to the nozzle the screws are nearly out of the screw holes in the y-carriage, I think longer screws would have helped, and if the holes in the y-carriage had been a tinsy bit wider... (0.05mm?) Just enough to stop the screws from sticking so much. Either that or to have made the y-carriage holes so that the screws actually threaded into them to brace them more.

Sorry about all the dust on the table! 😳

I am a complete newbie to this too, only finishing my kit 2 days ago. However i wanted to confirm that my heated bed is exactly the same, it has a bow in the centre. How ever after clipping the glass to it at the four corners, and doing the 4 corner calibration, it seemed to work fine and print okay. My screws are massively different in height visually, but it seems to counteract the bowing. Also make sure you push down hard on the plastic circle that adjust the Z height, the groves of the screws keep mine pressed in place.
I did read somewhere that getting longer screws with bolts underneath will hold it in place too 🙂

Re: Heatbed warped/bowed since arrival.

Hi

The heated beds can be bought from eBay for less than £7. You could get one from there quickly to test and report your findings to PR support who may then send you a replacement. Having a spare is no bad thing...

Peter

Re: Heatbed warped/bowed since arrival.

I have the same problem with heatbed. It makes the glass not level and the printer cannot be calibrated. But if you would have a capton tape and know how to resolder the cable so you can flip it it would problably help. but heating would take longer since the heating side would be facing down.

Re: Heatbed warped/bowed since arrival.

There is another option - use a spacer at the corners between the hot bed and glass, so that the heater is in contact with the glass in the centre, with a gap around the edges, where the clips are located. At least you should be able to calibrate and print something.

Peter