Nozzle stuck  

Re: Nozzle stuck

Re: Nozzle stuck

Not good 🙁

You need a 0.4mm nozzle, Heatbreak if it is damaged and the heater block. You will need to look at what thermister you have. You can have either a screw in the side of the block or no screws.

You can get a kit here but again depends on what thermister you have. 😉
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares/v6-Heater-Block-and-Fixings

Re: Nozzle stuck

Thanks Ben!

The thermistor is fastened with a screw.

Mårten

Re: Nozzle stuck

I guess this is a sensible upgrade: http://e3d-online.com/V6-Block-Sock-Kit

Mårten

Re: Nozzle stuck

Yep, I'm hoping to get one of those kits soon as well. It'll get you out of your predicament and bring you bang up to date technology wise AND you'll have a cute ickle-wickle sock for your hot-end 😀

Remember that you'll need the heater element out of your old heat block (or a new one) as the kit doesn't appear to include it... There are two power ratings available but I don't know which one (or if both) can be used with our Prusa's:

30W: http://e3d-online.com/Electrical/Heater-Cartridge-12v-30w

40W: http://e3d-online.com/Electrical/Heater-Cartridge-12v-40w

Re: Nozzle stuck

The printer is shipped with the 30W heater cartridge which tends to produce between 24 and 28W and which is part of the reason for some users experiencing temperature drop on lower layers with the part fan on full.

The 40W cartridge can be used with the RAMBo board, although personally I would not use it for a couple of reasons:

1. Harder to control from firmware creating a possible fire hazard
2. PID will need re-tuning
3. It runs via a 5Amp fuse and with all the other devices on that fuse, it's pushing it a bit close.

Hint: if you need more power from the heater cartridge to prevent temperature drop with the fan on, increase the PSU output voltage to around 13V...

Peter

Re: Nozzle stuck

@pjr increase the voltage..... fire fire pants on fire. Never mess above the rating of any part that is not 50% over specified. Old school 1970's electronics and power engineering in my day. And design in the industry I worked in as an engineer. And my degree course.
What are the specs of the heater chain ? PID is a disaster without knowledge. The maths is complex.

Today at my advanced age, I kept up 🙂 My home is controlled by IOT and other stuff designed by me. Including a weather station that posts data via the internet and new stuff coming up.

Re: Nozzle stuck

Merv

Don't understand why you think I am a liar.

The RAMBo is rated for operation at well over 24V. The heater cartridges are rated at 12V/30W but in many instances are only being driven at ~11V because of the voltage drop in the output MOSFETS and they have a higher resistance than specified. Increasing the PSU voltage to 13V will overcome the voltage drop and will not cause them to exceed the rated 30W.

Of course the bed heater will also be run at a higher voltage, but that is also more than capable of handling 13V.

And I too was taught electronic engineering in the '70's which is the main reason why I will not install a 40W heater cartridge as the fuse for this heater (and other parts) is only rated at 5 Amps and the current draw would be closer to 4.5 Amps.

Peter