No-Oozing Configuration  

Re: No-Oozing Configuration

Retraction speed has a fixed maximum in the firmware of 25mm/s, so going higher than this value will not have any effect.

You may also find that no retraction can help; you need to get the nozzle from one place to another as quickly as possible.

If you do use retraction, then adding a wipe before move can also help.

But there are so many settings which all contribute to stringing everyone will have their own solution. And unfortunately, printing at 190 is not one of them. Change filament (same manufacturer/brand/colour) and your minimum printable temp can change significantly.

Peter

Re: No-Oozing Configuration

Retraction speed has a fixed maximum in the firmware of 25mm/s, so going higher than this value will not have any effect.

You may also find that no retraction can help; you need to get the nozzle from one place to another as quickly as possible.

If you do use retraction, then adding a wipe before move can also help.

But there are so many settings which all contribute to stringing everyone will have their own solution. And unfortunately, printing at 190 is not one of them. Change filament (same manufacturer/brand/colour) and your minimum printable temp can change significantly.

Peter

Thanks for your feedback PJR.

I noticed that reducing the retraction got me better results, I'll try increasing non printing moving speeds with no retraction to see the results, as I already use wipe with the retraction.

When you say printing at 190ºc is not of the settings that contribute to stringing, should I be printing at higher temp?
Im asking because this was the first setting that I adjusted and it started to give better results when I lowered the temp, If I print at 215ºC the extruder will always be oozing, even in the 9 point calibration.

Re: No-Oozing Configuration

Antonio,

Are you printing at 190 with the PRUSA filament? I'm asking because I found 190 looked significantly better for me on both the PRUSA silver and black filament. I haven't noticed any layer adhesion issues at 190, I did see issues going lower.

-Jim

Re: No-Oozing Configuration

When you say printing at 190ºc is not of the settings that contribute to stringing, should I be printing at higher temp?
Im asking because this was the first setting that I adjusted and it started to give better results when I lowered the temp, If I print at 215ºC the extruder will always be oozing, even in the 9 point calibration.

Temperature does play a part but what Peter was alluding to was that each brand/color may have a different temperature at which it prints best. While 190 may be good for the one you have now it may not be best for the next filament you use.

Re: No-Oozing Configuration

Temperature does play a part but what Peter was alluding to was that each brand/color may have a different temperature at which it prints best. While 190 may be good for the one you have now it may not be best for the next filament you use.

That is correct. PR Blue, for example, starts to skip at 185 degrees on my printer but a different roll of the same blue works at 170 degrees on another printer.

I also have a roll of PR white which was extruding OK at 195 to start with but I had to gradually increase the temp to stop skipping. After printing half the roll, I am extruding at 230 degrees!

Peter

Re: No-Oozing Configuration

Antonio,

Are you printing at 190 with the PRUSA filament? I'm asking because I found 190 looked significantly better for me on both the PRUSA silver and black filament. I haven't noticed any layer adhesion issues at 190, I did see issues going lower.

-Jim

Yes, I am printing at 190 with Prusa Silver filament and no layer adhesion issues, but I print the first layer with 205 for better bed adhesion.

Temperature does play a part but what Peter was alluding to was that each brand/color may have a different temperature at which it prints best. While 190 may be good for the one you have now it may not be best for the next filament you use.

That is correct. PR Blue, for example, starts to skip at 185 degrees on my printer but a different roll of the same blue works at 170 degrees on another printer.

I also have a roll of PR white which was extruding OK at 195 to start with but I had to gradually increase the temp to stop skipping. After printing half the roll, I am extruding at 230 degrees!

Peter

Ok, I see what you mean and thanks for the tip, I also tried a EU Makers PLA sample and with that temperature I had awful results.

For now I am just learning with Prusa Silver PLA what settings to change to have better results.

Re: No-Oozing Configuration

I also have a roll of PR white which was extruding OK at 195 to start with but I had to gradually increase the temp to stop skipping. After printing half the roll, I am extruding at 230 degrees!

Peter

Maybe this is just a crazy idea but could this be related to filament taking up moisture from the air? Theoretically, a higher moisture content would mean that more energy is wasted to evaporate the water and thus a higher hot end temperature would be required to melt the plastic.
I have no idea in practice if this would be enough to make a difference.
💡 Maybe putting the filament in a desiccator or a warm oven for several hours might be enough to revert to the 195 optimum printability... ❓

Fosk

Re: No-Oozing Configuration

Maybe this is just a crazy idea but could this be related to filament taking up moisture from the air? Theoretically, a higher moisture content would mean that more energy is wasted to evaporate the water and thus a higher hot end temperature would be required to melt the plastic.
I have no idea in practice if this would be enough to make a difference.
💡 Maybe putting the filament in a desiccator or a warm oven for several hours might be enough to revert to the 195 optimum printability... ❓

Fosk

No. PR have been having QC issues with their own brand filament. That spool of white was also wound badly and twisted. It was probably where the manufacturers were changing from PLA to ABS,,,

As for PR Silver, the roll I am currently using has been 210 all the way. Anything less and the print has to be very slow.

Peter

Re: No-Oozing Configuration

No. PR have been having QC issues with their own brand filament. That spool of white was also wound badly and twisted. It was probably where the manufacturers were changing from PLA to ABS,,,

As for PR Silver, the roll I am currently using has been 210 all the way. Anything less and the print has to be very slow.

Peter

OK, as I wrote, it was kind of a crazy idea.
In any case, I read many posts from you on this forum, thanks a lot for all the great information and advice!

Fosk

Re: No-Oozing Configuration

Retraction speed has a fixed maximum in the firmware of 25mm/s, so going higher than this value will not have any effect.

You may also find that no retraction can help; you need to get the nozzle from one place to another as quickly as possible.

If you do use retraction, then adding a wipe before move can also help.

But there are so many settings which all contribute to stringing everyone will have their own solution. And unfortunately, printing at 190 is not one of them. Change filament (same manufacturer/brand/colour) and your minimum printable temp can change significantly.

Peter

PJR, without retraction what should be the moving speed for better results?

Thanks

Re: No-Oozing Configuration

I am currently using a non-printing move speed of 200mm/s, but this is close to the limit of the printer; if you have problems try reducing to 175mm/s

Peter