Center of heatbed lower than outer points
I've just completed the Mk1 to Mk2 upgrade and I've noticed that the center of the heatbed where the 2 screws go in from the Y axis belt holder, is lower than the outside of the bed by about 0.2-0.3mm. Will calibration sort this out so it doesnt matter or is there a trick to getting the center to be the same height as all the other points where the screws attach to the heatbed?
I've checked that all the screws are tight and that there is no gap.
Re: Center of heatbed lower than outer points
the meshbed leveling should deal with that.
but you can try to put two 0.3mm washers between the two stand-offs in the middle of the printbed and the y-carriage.
dem inscheniör is' nix zu schwör...
Re: Center of heatbed lower than outer points
the meshbed leveling should deal with that.
but you can try to put two 0.3mm washers between the two stand-offs in the middle of the printbed and the y-carriage.
Unfortunately, it doesn't on mine either. It would need more points to properly level my bed i think. It has a nice bowl shape (exaggerating)
I did end up ordering a new bed which is alot flatter than the one that came with my kit (but couldn't be bothered to install it yet). I simply got used to working around it: Thicker than normal first layer, moving the prints to a different spot on the bed if neccessary, stuff like that usually works out.
If i wasn't so lazy, i'd try the washers too.. Or finally put in the new bed.
When my MM upgrade finally gets delivered, i shall take it all apart again, sort my bearings but until then: "eh, it print's.. Good nuff"
Re: Center of heatbed lower than outer points
💡 one point to mention, when you assemble the printbed onto the y-carriage:
inside the holes (of the y-carriage) through which you assemble the m3 screws: there are no threads ! and there should be none !
furthermore: there should be a tiny clearance, to make sure that you don't apply any force in x or y direction, when you tighten the screws.
the m3 screws should pass through any hole without any resistance (and without any screwing). otherwise you may "squeeze" the whole printbed to the locations of the holes at the y-carriage (which may lead to a "bowler" or a dip...). the screws should only have grip at the stand-offs of the printbed.
my kit came with remainders of the coating process inside the holes. at first sight i thought that there are some threads inside the y-carriage: but this does not make any sense.
i had to use a 3.5mm drill to get the holes cleared (and to get some clearance, so that the holes inside the y-carriage and the stand-offs could match perfectly)... afterwards the printbed fitted without any squeezing and the printbed was as flat as when i put it unassembled at the table.
➡ i won't recommend this method... but for me it worked perfectly. so if you widen the holes with a 3.5mm drill, as i did, it's at your own risk.
dem inscheniör is' nix zu schwör...