Broken Thermistor and New E3D V6 heater-block compatibility questions
I have a brand new Original Prusa i3 MK2, that just came in July 3rd and I just broke the heatbreak trying while trying to fix a leak that happened after I removed the heatbreak to remove a clog.
For a replacement I went online and I bought a brand new "v6 HotEnd Metal Parts Only 1.75mm Universal from e3d-online.
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Metal-Only/v6-1.75mm-Universal-Metal-Only
After receiving the replacement hotend, I find out that the heater-block and thermistor has been changed to a new heater-block and thermistor cartridge. So old thermistor that was shipped with my MK2 is no longer compatible with the new heater-block. In addition to all this, I also broke the thermistor while trying to remove the old heater-block. (I was able to salvage my original (old style) heater-block and my original heat-sink.)
So now I have a brand new E3D v6, hotend, but I dont know what to buy to fix my broken thermistor. Should I buy the new thermistor cartridge that e3d moved to?
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares/Thermistor-Cartridge
If I buy the new thermistor cartridge, do I need anything else like the PT100 Temp sensor and PT100 Amplifier board (It sounds like those are optional items)?
Or should I just buy the old 100k ohm NTC thermistor? And fiberglass sleeve?
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares/100k-Ohm-NTC-Thermistor-Semitec
Thank you,
~Kaizers
Re: Broken Thermistor and New E3D V6 heater-block compatibility questions
Hi Kai
From what I can tell, the thermistors are the same, but packaged differently. The amplifier board is for a thermocouple.
Just buy the new thermistor; it is a Semitec, the same as the previous unpackaged version.
According to the firmware:
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5
and
// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup)
So in firmware the extruder is set for a Semitec 104GT-2.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Broken Thermistor and New E3D V6 heater-block compatibility questions
Thanks for the quick reply Peter.
Ok I am going to just buy the regular Thermister Cartridge x5 just incase I break it again lol.
http://e3d-online.com/Thermistor-Cartridge
Also, the wiki v6 assembly page states that we might have to configure the firmware:
http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly#Configure_Firmware_.28Easy.21.29
Do I need to configure the firmware for the new Thermister Cartridge? If so how do I go about doing it? (Sorry I am very new to this).
Finally, the online description states that it is "terminated with a Molex Microfit 3.0 connector". How do I connect it to the old wiring?
The online wiki guide for the old wiring ( http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly_(Old_Wiring) , says to crimp the red and black thermistor cable to the thermistor, does the red and black thermistor cable simply slide into the Molex Microfit 3.0 connector?
Thanks a ton Peter.
~Kaizers
Re: Broken Thermistor and New E3D V6 heater-block compatibility questions
Hi Kai
As per the firmware snippets, I posted earlier, it is already set for that particular thermistor, no no changes required.
Regarding connector. Polarity is irrelevant; it really does not matter how you connect it, as long as you have a good mechanical joint. You could cut the connector off and solder the existing wire to the new thermistor or you could solder a plug to the existing wiring - the latter would be preferable if you intend changing it again...
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Broken Thermistor and New E3D V6 heater-block compatibility questions
Ok thanks for the info Peter. I really appreciate it. I will post back when I get my new thermistor cartridge in and hopefully get it working lol.
~Kaizers
Re: Broken Thermistor and New E3D V6 heater-block compatibility questions
Kaizers,
If you are going to be using the new heat block you will either need the new thermistor type or find a way to secure the old style in the new block.
The new block uses a grub screw to secure the thermistor in the block. The new thermistors are encased in ceramic inside a copper cartridge.
Re: Broken Thermistor and New E3D V6 heater-block compatibility questions
I've been looking at this issue as well. The new style thermistor looks very seductive; however, the heater block has been redesigned to accommodate--the nozzle is in a slightly different location than before. Does this cause problems with alignment? Does the firmware depend upon a set offset wrt the PINDA probe?
What I ended up doing is buying a thermistor replacement kit
http://e3d-online.com/Electrical/Components/Thermistor-Replacement-Kit
And using these instructions:
http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly_(Old_Wiring)
I salvaged my old heater block by putting it in the oven at 400F (~200C) on a tinfoil-covered cookie sheet to warm up. I used a Mr. Clean pad to wipe off all the melted PLA. I used a q-tip to clean the heater cartridge slot, a knife to clean the gap that clamps in the heater, and a cold pull method to clear the melted PLA out of both the thermistor well and the heat break. It took an hour or so, but I could do it again in ½ the time.
Re: Broken Thermistor and New E3D V6 heater-block compatibility questions
Curtis
There would be no alignment issues; the nozzle must be in line with the filament feed, heat sink and heat break. The heater block may end up in a slightly different position, but I am sure E3D will have taken all that into consideration when designing the new heater block.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Broken Thermistor and New E3D V6 heater-block compatibility questions
Curtis
There would be no alignment issues; the nozzle must be in line with the filament feed, heat sink and heat break. The heater block may end up in a slightly different position, but I am sure E3D will have taken all that into consideration when designing the new heater block.
Peter
0,0 won't be 0,0 if the nozzle is in a different location. Unless the firmware already has a toggle to accommodate this new heat block and nozzle position.
Re: Broken Thermistor and New E3D V6 heater-block compatibility questions
0,0 won't be 0,0 if the nozzle is in a different location. Unless the firmware already has a toggle to accommodate this new heat block and nozzle position.
The nozzle will be in the same x,y location since the filament path doesn't change. 0,0 will still be 0,0.
Re: Broken Thermistor and New E3D V6 heater-block compatibility questions
0,0 won't be 0,0 if the nozzle is in a different location. Unless the firmware already has a toggle to accommodate this new heat block and nozzle position.
The nozzle will be in the same x,y location since the filament path doesn't change. 0,0 will still be 0,0.
What are you talking about? Have you looked at the new heater block? The nozzle location has changed, therefore the filament path has changed, therefore 0,0 will change.
Re: Broken Thermistor and New E3D V6 heater-block compatibility questions
I just got my new thermistor cartridge in today (E3D's shipping is amazing, two days from Britain to Hawaii on FedEx Express!). Installation was pretty simple, they included a long 3ft or so cable to connect the thermistor to the electronics board, so I didn't need anything else or to solder or cut any wires to make the switch.
The new heater-block is just a little bit longer than the old one, but it seems like everything lines up the same so @Curtis we shouldn't have to worry about the nozzle not being at 0,0.
I really think upgrading to the new thermistor cartridge is going to be worth it in the long run because now I will just have to unclip the old one and clip in a new thermistor cartridge without having to rerun wires to the electronics board.
I am currently running a test print and everything is working great so far.
Thanks for all the help, and I hope this helps others in the future.
~Kaizers
Re: Broken Thermistor and New E3D V6 heater-block compatibility questions
What are you talking about? Have you looked at the new heater block? The nozzle location has changed, therefore the filament path has changed, therefore 0,0 will change.
Absolutely I have! I have replaced an e3D Lite V6 with a new e3D V6 on a home built machine 3 days ago. Actually I just replaced the tube and heat block assembly but reused the heat sink without removing it from the printer. The nozzle location did not change and 0,0 is the same now as it was before I changed it out.
Re: Broken Thermistor and New E3D V6 heater-block compatibility questions
Richard
I think Curtis is having difficulties with imagining a straight filament path...
Both you and I have arrived at the same conclusion; I think there is little doubt here.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…