slic3r settings to print Marvin to join 3dHubs  

Re: slic3r settings to print Marvin to join 3dHubs

Hi David

I guess you want to join 3D hubs to earn money printing things for others. This is precisely the sort of thing that you will have to learn how to solve for yourself, but here's what I would do for starters:

1. Ensure the belts on the X and Y axis are tight enough.
2. For that print I would use a maximum layer height of 0.2mm
3. Given the messy finish, I would lower the print temperature by 10 to 15 degrees and increase the print speed.

There are many other things I would look at, but over to you...

Peter

Re: slic3r settings to print Marvin to join 3dHubs

You guess incorrectly Peter - that is NOT my reason for wishing to join 3D hubs.
Yes I am aware that I have a lot to learn - which is precisely why I am experimenting and asking advice from other more experienced printer users.

Thank you for your suggestions - I shall take them on board.

Your response although helpful, does not invite me, or other forum users, to ask for further advice - which is exactly what I thought the purpose of this forum was. Perhaps I have misunderstood.

Re: slic3r settings to print Marvin to join 3dHubs

David

You are quite correct. One day I will learn to stop guessing.

Peter

Re: slic3r settings to print Marvin to join 3dHubs

In case anyone else finds this thread because they have a similar problem to me in printing Marvin, this is what I did: I adjusted a few parameters in slic3r and printed 2 x Marvins at the same time, about 2 inches apart. This gave much better results because each layer had time to cool before the next layer was added, so the hook on his head was well formed. It still wasn't perfect though.

So next I switched to Cura, where I enabled the 'minimum layer time' to 5 seconds - this is the minimum time that it will spend on each layer - time again for the hook to cool before the next layer is added, so I didn't need to print a second Marvin.

My complete Cura ini file is as follows; Just paste this into a .ini file and load it into Cura using File->Open Profile:
(There may well be improvements that can be made to this - I am still very much a newbie - but it does produce the results in the attached image).

[profile]
layer_height = 0.2
wall_thickness = 2
retraction_enable = True
solid_layer_thickness = 0.8
fill_density = 22
print_speed = 70
print_temperature = 235
print_temperature2 = 0
print_temperature3 = 0
print_temperature4 = 0
print_temperature5 = 0
print_bed_temperature = 90
support = None
platform_adhesion = None
support_dual_extrusion = Both
wipe_tower = False
wipe_tower_volume = 15
ooze_shield = False
filament_diameter = 1.75
filament_diameter2 = 0
filament_diameter3 = 0
filament_diameter4 = 0
filament_diameter5 = 0
filament_flow = 100.0
nozzle_size = 0.4
retraction_speed = 40.0
retraction_amount = 4.5
retraction_dual_amount = 16.5
retraction_min_travel = 1.5
retraction_combing = All
retraction_minimal_extrusion = 0.02
retraction_hop = 0.0
bottom_thickness = 0
layer0_width_factor = 100
object_sink = 0.0
overlap_dual = 0.15
travel_speed = 150
bottom_layer_speed = 20
infill_speed = 0
solidarea_speed = 0.0
inset0_speed = 0.0
insetx_speed = 0.0
cool_min_layer_time = 5
fan_enabled = True
skirt_line_count = 1
skirt_gap = 3.0
skirt_minimal_length = 150.0
fan_full_height = 0.5
fan_speed = 100
fan_speed_max = 100
cool_min_feedrate = 10
cool_head_lift = False
solid_top = True
solid_bottom = True
fill_overlap = 15
perimeter_before_infill = True
support_type = Lines
support_angle = 60
support_fill_rate = 15
support_xy_distance = 0.7
support_z_distance = 0.15
spiralize = False
simple_mode = False
brim_line_count = 20
raft_margin = 5.0
raft_line_spacing = 3.0
raft_base_thickness = 0.3
raft_base_linewidth = 1.0
raft_interface_thickness = 0.27
raft_interface_linewidth = 0.4
raft_airgap_all = 0.0
raft_airgap = 0.22
raft_surface_layers = 2
raft_surface_thickness = 0.27
raft_surface_linewidth = 0.4
fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = True
fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False
fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False
fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False
plugin_config =
object_center_x = -1
object_center_y = -1

[alterations]
start.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
M201 X1000 Y1000 E600 ; set max printing acceleration
M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
M92 E161.3 ; set axis steps per unit for the extruder
M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off

G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 X8.0 F2000
G1 Y60.0 E4.0 F1000.0
G1 Y100.0 E8.5 F1000.0
G92 E0.0

G1 Z5.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 5mm

G1 F{travel_speed}

;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...

end.gcode = ;End GCode
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)

G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 ;move X to min endstops, so the head is out of the way

M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning
;{profile_string}

Re: slic3r settings to print Marvin to join 3dHubs

Hi David

Brilliant, well done.

A couple of amendments you could make in the slicer:

1. Use 3 (or 4) loops (wall_thickness). This also helps overhangs.
2. A 5-second layer time is OK for PLA; with ABS you should increase that to 15 or 20 seconds. However, a minimum print speed (cool_min_feedrate) may kick-in and over-ride that setting, so printing 2 objects at a time can generate better results.

Also E3D recommends a retraction amount of only 2mm for their hotends. Too much retraction can cause clogging. However, I use 2 to 4mm, depending on what I am printing.

Peter

Re: slic3r settings to print Marvin to join 3dHubs

We have the Marvin g-codes for both PLA and ABS supplied on our SD cards and with our driver package. Check the 3D objects folder on your Desktop 🙂

Small stuff like Marvin is much easier to print from PLA as we can cool it full blast. That ensures crisp outlines. With ABS I suggest to print more at the same time 🙂