Problems Printing Taulman Bridge
Hello, I am attempting to print Taulman Bridge on my printer, but the prints turn out rough and unusable.
I use cubic infill, but instead of it being smooth, it looks more like bits of sand, and the outer layers vary in opacity. The printed object is not strong at all, and the layers can be peeled apart with my finger nails. Bed adhesion has never been a problem when I use a glue stick, the print nozzle is debris free, and there are no feeding problems such as the filament drive gear slipping,
I have tried temperatures from 240 to 275, always keep the bed at 50, speed between 30 and 60 mm/s, and layer heights of 0.1 and 0.2; none of these variables improved the problem.
I store the filament in a vacuum storage bag with desiccant, and I only remove it to heat in oven (at 80 degree C) or to use in printer. I have tried leaving in oven for time periods of 4, 12, or even 16 hours at a time, and then immediately using it in printer, but the print quality doesn't improve. When I extrude some I never hear hissing/popping, but I do always see varying amounts of steam; also, not sure if it matters, but the extruded string of filament feels smooth. I have read from some sources that some amount of steam emanating from nozzle during extrusion is acceptable for Bridge, and given that no amount of oven heating or dry storage seems to improve the problem, I am at a loss. 😥
So my question is... Is the problem moisture or not? If the answer is yes, what other steps must be taken to dry filament? I appreciate any information and advice you can offer. 🙂
Re: Problems Printing Taulman Bridge
well i'll take a shot.
i'm no expert but here is my thread on taulman bridge.
you can look at my settings and compare to yours.
1) moisture is a big problem with nylon.
I have a Filament dryer which i run at 70C for over 12 hours at a time.
i take it out of the dryer and stick it in a bag with Desiccants and i push all the air out of the bag that i can.
when i want to use the nylon i dry it once again for like 6 hours before installing it in the machine. after like 6 hours it starts poping again.
2) i run a dehumidifier however i cannot drop below 50% humidity currently this does add to my issues as the print would improve if i could get the humidity lower.
you have more then one issue to overcome.
3) as far as strength, you cannot use the cooling fan at all, that is what is causing your layers to not stick. nylon has to be laid as hot as possible at all times because it actually sucks heat away from the hot end fast. that said you may need to hand modify areas of your Gcode to manually lower the temperature in a tiny area to prevent melting/overheating as it does not transfer heat fast enough and you cannot use the cooling fans.
4) you might be printing too hot in the photo you provided. hard to tell as it looks like pillowing.
however with everything you are experiencing look at what i did with my settings. I am using Slic3r. you will get vastly different results with different slicers on the market. they all handle the layers and cooling and timing differently.
5) no fans, slow down, use variable layer timing so smaller areas go slower or you drop temperature 5-10C at a time like a heat tower.
min layer time is about 15s so if you have a layer that wants to lay down the nylon faster then 15seconds you need to slow it down or it will pull the layer with the nozzle and smear it before it has a chance to set in place, it makes it appear melted from over heating when it is in fact just getting tugged by the nozzle moving too fast.
6) it oozes like crazy so turn Z-hop off, this reduces the need for retractions which keeps everything running smoother during the print.
retractions with nylon cause all kinds of issues, underextruding/over extruding the material needs to be kept under a consistent extruder pressure inside the nozzle
7) keep your extruder multiplier at 1 (100%) do not play with it. make the changes to the nozzle temperature or the layer speed.
8) inspect the filament at the feeder make sure that kurled pulley in the extruder is not eating into the to filament adjust the tension of the extruder idle bolts as needed.
if you get good results post what you did so we can get more information as a community and improve our slicer settings.
“One does not simply use a picture as signature on Prusa forumsâ€
Re: Problems Printing Taulman Bridge
Thats to much water un your filament I guess...!
Dry it in Owen for a couple of hours in about 70℃ -80℃!
Hello, I am attempting to print Taulman Bridge on my printer, but the prints turn out rough and unusable.
IMG_0951.JPG
I use cubic infill, but instead of it being smooth, it looks more like bits of sand, and the outer layers vary in opacity. The printed object is not strong at all, and the layers can be peeled apart with my finger nails. Bed adhesion has never been a problem when I use a glue stick, the print nozzle is debris free, and there are no feeding problems such as the filament drive gear slipping,
I have tried temperatures from 240 to 275, always keep the bed at 50, speed between 30 and 60 mm/s, and layer heights of 0.1 and 0.2; none of these variables improved the problem.
I store the filament in a vacuum storage bag with desiccant, and I only remove it to heat in oven (at 80 degree C) or to use in printer. I have tried leaving in oven for time periods of 4, 12, or even 16 hours at a time, and then immediately using it in printer, but the print quality doesn't improve. When I extrude some I never hear hissing/popping, but I do always see varying amounts of steam; also, not sure if it matters, but the extruded string of filament feels smooth. I have read from some sources that some amount of steam emanating from nozzle during extrusion is acceptable for Bridge, and given that no amount of oven heating or dry storage seems to improve the problem, I am at a loss. 😥
So my question is... Is the problem moisture or not? If the answer is yes, what other steps must be taken to dry filament? I appreciate any information and advice you can offer. 🙂
RE: Problems Printing Taulman Bridge
@daniel-a6
This is an old thread, but still as relevant and helpful as ever. I followed your suggestion of printing initially at 247C, then subsequently at 240, and the popping is gone, gone too is the frosty looks of the print. It's now as clear as the filament itself. Now I'm in love with this filament again. Thank you very much for your sharing.