Enclosure design advice
So I have opted for the Ikea Lack table approach. I have made the universal spool holder for the top.
I have just ordered some 3mm acrylic to box it in. At the moment I have put a blacket around it on a few short prints to see how it got on. It prints much better but I am concered the PSU & Rambo might get too hot.
What temp should my enclosure be and what should it maintain? (in an ideal scenario printing ABS)
I was wondering if I should be moving the PSU and Rambo to outside the enclosure when I build it and I have removed the blanket for further printing?
Thanks
Re: Enclosure design advice
Hi ben,
Could you share your spool holder design, i'm not so happy for now with my approach....
I also have myself build the ikea lack table enclosure for my mk2 and have found out some things:
1. The dimensions in Y and Z are TIGHT! I have like 3 mm left on the ceiling, as i have used a led strip for lightning i have the problem that the E-Idler scrapes on that if i would print in full Z height. I have to print some kind of foot to give it more room. you need at least 1cm more z height if you use a lightning strip where the x carriage is moving. You can NOT use the anti vibration feet with it!
2. Filament angle. If i will print in full Z height the filament (outside of the lack table in airtight box ) will make at least two nearly 90 degree bents. I'm not sure how it will handle that or if the extruder is strong enough to pull.
Any ideas about this are appreciated !? 😀 ❓
3. Y length. It is really more than the 42cm on the homepage as the cables of the heatbed do not go up in 90 degrees and you need at least 49 cm if not the full 50 of the table to get it all in and the y endstop working correctly. I used 2mm plastic doors and one is like 0.5 cm from the end of the table. The other side (front) is also 0.5 cm from the table edge but the pastic gets bent by the lcd. This could be prevented if the LCD "arms" where not so long. I try to shorten them when i have time and found out how to do that....
I made an issue on github that PR should supply us with the LCD support scad files. ->
https://github.com/prusa3d/Orignal-Prusa-i3/issues/4
4. Make sure at least 2 sides can be removed for maintenance.
5. If you want light inside, one light strip will do the trick for nice ambiance but be careful not to put it where the x carriage is moving.
6. I only print PLA and on a 5 hour print the case is able to get like 12 degrees higher than room temp (36). This is quite good i think as anything helps but i would like it to be more about 45 but as i saw on the instruct able page i think this is only possible with abs (higher bed temp) and of course 4mm acryl dos isolate better that 2mm.
All in all i can say that the LACK makes a good base for an nice looking case but as said it has his cave heats...
I would like to see your enclosure when its finished. When i find out how i can attach images here i will post mine too 🙂
Have fun building and ask if you have any questions!