Prusa Checklist print settings?
For anyone that received a pre-assembled MK3 - have you ever had a print look as 'finished' as the orange and black Pursa logo tile that came fixed to the print bed during shipping? It looks like it was Neosanded and it looks fantastic. I can not seem to replicate that with Slic3r PE
Re: Prusa Checklist print settings?
The settings on slic3r pe are good enough to get you better than average prints out of the box. In order to get better quality prints you'll have to dial in the filament you're using and make adjustments in slicer settings. I've been producing professional quality looking prints but it took me about 10 printing days to get everything dialed in the way I wanted.
Re: Prusa Checklist print settings?
Not really what I asked, but yeah. I get that. The default settings work quite well. I'm not complaining, I want to know how to recreate the results with what I presume they did with the very printer that was shipped in the box (the purpose for the print in the first place - validating the printer works)
Re: Prusa Checklist print settings?
For some reason I cannot get anything to print using Slic3r PE with my i3 mk3. I can print just fine using Simplify3D, but when I try default settings with the same SLT with Slic3r PE, my first layer fails to stick. Same PLA, STL, temps, other than using a different slicer (with probably different settings).
I'm just puzzled because from what I've ready, Slic3r PE is supposed to just "work" out of the box with the i3 mk3 with decent prints. Yet I can't even get the first layer on!
Any suggestions?
Re: Prusa Checklist print settings?
This is a digression from my post that is apparently going to be ignored by everyone else.... But:
- Make sure you are on the latest firmware and software. It changes a lot lately. New stuff two days ago.
- do a full recalibration with the wizard.
- Make sure you are doing the live Z height calibration properly. This is where I believe the crux of your issue resides. Go to where you though you were good last time, then go further. I found it took quite a bit more than I expected to get the resulting square at the end to look and feel as I expected.
- print one of the stock gcode/sliced files from the included ad card.
- if that worked, reset your profiles in Slic3r and re-slice something and print it.