How often do you calibrate your z offset
Hello,
So like most people here I bought an MK3 and I am anxiously waiting for it to ship. Well, lately I been trying to do a lot more printing on my modified Tronxy m802a. This Issue is I am constantly having to readjust my z offset. I suspect that one of my Z motors is skipping steps. Anyway, This post isn't about my crappy Tronxy. I was curious how often everyone ends up recalibrating the z offset on their MK3. The live z calibration is about 80% of why went with a Prusa.
Re: How often do you calibrate your z offset
Only when I move printer to the other place. Before the every print the PINDA quickly check the actual state of mesh bed leveling and just works. I find myself to don't look at 1st layer at all. It just works pretty well. Only thing you have to do is follow the manual step by step.
Re: How often do you calibrate your z offset
I reset live calibration whenever I change from one filament type to another. Such as PLA to ABS or PETG. So far I have only used one brand, Inland. I wonder if others have to change when brand switching of the same type?
Re: How often do you calibrate your z offset
It's good to hear it's not a consistent problem like my printer current printer. I will I could say this was my worst problem though :-/ for some reason I'm getting a thermal run-away 30 minutes or so into a print :-/. I can't wait for my Prusa to ship!
Re: How often do you calibrate your z offset
Only time I adjust Z is when switching filament types. I also mostly print with Inland, but find the brand hasn't made much difference. The material does. PETG seems to want an extra .05mm to .1mm additional Z height. If I am thinking ahead, this can be done in the slicer. If I forget, then I adjust the live Z. Just have to remember to set it back for PLA.
Re: How often do you calibrate your z offset
I calibrated when I built it, and the one time when I moved it. But it has not been moved since, and had 3-4 different suppliers /types of filament ran through it with no problems. The people at the local Maker space where it is currently sitting have not reported any issue with it yet over the last month it has been there.
Re: How often do you calibrate your z offset
It's good to hear it's not a consistent problem like my printer current printer. I will I could say this was my worst problem though :-/ for some reason I'm getting a thermal run-away 30 minutes or so into a print :-/. I can't wait for my Prusa to ship!
That's a bad thermistor (happens to me when I have a massively failed print), usually an easy and cheap fix. Replace, do PID tuning, be happy again.
Re: How often do you calibrate your z offset
Only time I adjust Z is when switching filament types. I also mostly print with Inland, but find the brand hasn't made much difference. The material does. PETG seems to want an extra .05mm to .1mm additional Z height. If I am thinking ahead, this can be done in the slicer. If I forget, then I adjust the live Z. Just have to remember to set it back for PLA.
You shouldn't have to with the MK3. The P.I.N.D.A. 2 probe adjusts the table according to bed temp and ambient temp so you just need to calibrate with PLA and it auto adjusts accordingly. I haven't had to change my z height for PETG or PLA (I don't print ABS). Since PETG is a bit more sensitive to z height, I will dial that in instead of PLA and everything is fine afterwards.
Re: How often do you calibrate your z offset
I havent adjusted the Z like.... since i calibrated the first time.
I have printed PLA, PETG, ABS and CPE.
Re: How often do you calibrate your z offset
I suspect that one of my Z motors is skipping steps.
I think you may be interested in the "calibrate Z" option where in addition to the mesh level it rams the gantry all the way to the top, making sure both lead screws are in sync. I'm curious how far off it would have to be before the mesh level threw out an error (or would it?)
I've wondered about putting this into gcode for every print, just before the mesh level, but I'm paranoid.
Re: How often do you calibrate your z offset
You shouldn't have to with the MK3. The P.I.N.D.A. 2 probe adjusts the table according to bed temp and ambient temp so you just need to calibrate with PLA and it auto adjusts accordingly. I haven't had to change my z height for PETG or PLA (I don't print ABS). Since PETG is a bit more sensitive to z height, I will dial that in instead of PLA and everything is fine afterwards.
That is what I thought.... But, it has not yet been my experience. I have heard in the forums that the PINDA folks are receiving now are more accurate and working better than the orignal (they are a different color). I will be ordering the new PEI sheets when they become available. Also adding a few fans since mine are failing already. I would add a PINDA if I knew I was getting the more accurate model. Maybe I would not have to adjust live z again either. My changes between filament types is rather significant. From PLA to PETG is around a .250 change.
Re: How often do you calibrate your z offset
You shouldn't have to with the MK3. The P.I.N.D.A. 2 probe adjusts the table according to bed temp and ambient temp so you just need to calibrate with PLA and it auto adjusts accordingly. I haven't had to change my z height for PETG or PLA (I don't print ABS). Since PETG is a bit more sensitive to z height, I will dial that in instead of PLA and everything is fine afterwards.
That is what I thought.... But, it has not yet been my experience. I have heard in the forums that the PINDA folks are receiving now are more accurate and working better than the orignal (they are a different color). I will be ordering the new PEI sheets when they become available. Also adding a few fans since mine are failing already. I would add a PINDA if I knew I was getting the more accurate model. Maybe I would not have to adjust live z again either. My changes between filament types is rather significant. From PLA to PETG is around a .250 change.
I jinxed myself. I had to adjust the z height for Ninjaflex. My height was too low and causing jams. Where I had it for PETG and PLA was good though.