Failed to print 3D bentchy model from factory USB
Hello,
I received my new i3 mk3 kit a few weeks ago. I assembled it and tried a few simple models, it worked fine. Yesterday I started to print more complicated models. The first model I tried is bentchy g-code file from the factory USB. I used the silver PLA filament provided by PRUSA.
The print quality looks good. However, every time it fails when it tries to print the bridge. More specifically it fails when it tries to print the overhang part of the bridge. When it prints the line across the overhang, the nozzle falls between the gap and collides with the print.
I have attached an image with this post.
One possible cause is wrong calibration of nozzle distance to bed. However, during first layer calibration I already made nozzle not too close to bed.
Have anyone encountered this same issue? What are the possible solutions?
Thanks,
Brady
Re: Failed to print 3D bentchy model from factory USB
Looks like this is the same issue as reported on this thread: https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3-f30/benchy-failure-t15112.html
Re: Failed to print 3D bentchy model from factory USB
Until someone chimes in you may want to do a search for "overhang stringing" and review those posts. I don't even have my MK3 together yet, but it looks like something to do with temp and cooling if calibration is working.
Re: Failed to print 3D bentchy model from factory USB
I guess that SD .gcodes are obsolete (for older FW). Let's try slice it again in the latest Slic3r and you get awesome benchy, I promise 🙂
Re: Failed to print 3D bentchy model from factory USB
Thanks for all the quick responses!
I followed the link in the thread https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3-f30/benchy-failure-t15112.html and downloaded first layer calibration model from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2125379 . I recalibricate my mk3 again by using live-z. Based on the test, I changed my live-z setting from around -0.60 -0.77. This change magically fixed the issue.
I guess there are two reasons:
I think the instructions of first layer calibration in the PRUSA mk3 user guide (at https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk3_en.pdf page 24) is confusing. I looked at Pic 10 on page 24, but had no idea my nozzle was too close to bed. It is not clear at all the pattern printed during calibration is good or not. It would be much better to use similar the approach ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2125379 ) to calibrate.