Eliminating PINDA Probe
It's awesome that the MK3 eliminated cost and system complexity of end-stops by detecting the end with the new stepper drivers. So I got to wondering: could the PINDA probe be eliminated too?
Seems that the printer could gently bump the nozzle into the bed at the 9 calibration points and detect the bump. Not only does this save cost and complexity of the PINDA probe, but it might also eliminate the need to separately tune the z-level (since the printer would be directly measuring distance between nozzle and bed).
Biggest issue I see is that the printer uses the x/y coordinates of the sensing points to detect skew--so another method would need to be devised for that. Maybe put small holes on the outer perimeter of the build plate. What do you think?
Re: Eliminating PINDA Probe
I'm not sure it would be accurate enough, being off by +/- . 05mm at an end of an x or y axis doesn't matter but being off at even one point on the bed and your print is ruined. That and it's much higher of a chance to ruin your bed even if done slowly/gently.
That's just my guess though, I'm certainly no expert.
Re: Eliminating PINDA Probe
Monoprice Mini Delta does just what you are saying, except instead of having fancy trinamic drivers that can detect resistance, they do it by having the bed rest on a few microswitches. The nozzle makes contact and pushes the bed down, pushing the button underneath. When I first saw it I thought it would be horrible, but it was actually pretty reliable.
My MK3 Parts: [Bowden] [New Shoes] [TPU Micro Springs]
Re: Eliminating PINDA Probe
Monoprice Mini Delta does just what you are saying, except instead of having fancy trinamic drivers that can detect resistance, they do it by having the bed rest on a few microswitches. The nozzle makes contact and pushes the bed down, pushing the button underneath. When I first saw it I thought it would be horrible, but it was actually pretty reliable.
OK, but does it have PEI sheet? If it has glass bed then it's no problem, but PEI sheet would be ruined pretty easily. Remember that before each print nozzle would bump into exactly same 9 spots on PEI sheet. Then you have to think that there are users with Olsson Ruby nozzle which will break very easily.
I don't see any down side of PINDA, especially in MK3, where it measures bed tempereature as well and compensates Z offset. On my MK2 i've had to correct Z offset each time i switched from PLA to ABS and vice versa.
Re: Eliminating PINDA Probe
I don't see any down side of PINDA, especially in MK3, where it measures bed tempereature as well and compensates Z offset. On my MK2 i've had to correct Z offset each time i switched from PLA to ABS and vice versa.
I'm looking at my Mk3 where the Pinda broke on Sunday night between a large print and me trying to print exactly the same object again. Eliminating anything that is unnecessary can be both a reliability and a cost win 🙂
Re: Eliminating PINDA Probe
Monoprice Mini Delta does just what you are saying, except instead of having fancy trinamic drivers that can detect resistance, they do it by having the bed rest on a few microswitches. The nozzle makes contact and pushes the bed down, pushing the button underneath. When I first saw it I thought it would be horrible, but it was actually pretty reliable.
OK, but does it have PEI sheet? If it has glass bed then it's no problem, but PEI sheet would be ruined pretty easily. Remember that before each print nozzle would bump into exactly same 9 spots on PEI sheet. Then you have to think that there are users with Olsson Ruby nozzle which will break very easily.
I don't see any down side of PINDA, especially in MK3, where it measures bed tempereature as well and compensates Z offset. On my MK2 i've had to correct Z offset each time i switched from PLA to ABS and vice versa.
Nah it had the plastic buildtak style surface. I am sure it wouldn't work for the PEI side of the house, just saying alternatives are out there to PINDA.
My MK3 Parts: [Bowden] [New Shoes] [TPU Micro Springs]
Re: Eliminating PINDA Probe
I'm looking at my Mk3 where the Pinda broke on Sunday night between a large print and me trying to print exactly the same object again. Eliminating anything that is unnecessary can be both a reliability and a cost win 🙂
Hm...Pinda is located a few mm above print surface, so if it hits then it's something wrong...? What happened? Did you try to re-home/re-print before you removed old object? Software malfuction...?
I've had pinda protector mounted on probe of my old MK2. I don't know though if it would have any protection function in the case of hit...
Re: Eliminating PINDA Probe
I'm looking at my Mk3 where the Pinda broke on Sunday night between a large print and me trying to print exactly the same object again. Eliminating anything that is unnecessary can be both a reliability and a cost win 🙂
Hm...Pinda is located a few mm above print surface, so if it hits then it's something wrong...? What happened? Did you try to re-home/re-print before you removed old object? Software malfuction...?
I've had pinda protector mounted on probe of my old MK2. I don't know though if it would have any protection function in the case of hit...
Object printed is perfect, no indication or reason to believe the Pinda struck anything. I think it simply spontaneously failed.
Re: Eliminating PINDA Probe
Oh...i thought that you broke it (like damaged it) - i missunderstood you... 😳