Bad first print the Castle
What I have to improve?
Re: Bad first print the Castle
Z-offset is too low. Bring it up until that goes away.
My MK3 Parts: [Bowden] [New Shoes] [TPU Micro Springs]
Re: Bad first print the Castle
Z-offset is too low. Bring it up until that goes away.
Thanks. Can you explain how to do that?
Re: Bad first print the Castle
Z-offset is too low. Bring it up until that goes away.
Thanks. Can you explain how to do that?
I would refer to the guide on doing First Layer Calibration, but it's kinda tricky with the built in gcode. I would suggest starting that castle print again, and once it starts printing the menu will have a Live Z Offset Adjust option in the main menu. You can raise and lower the nozzle from there. You need to raise it until the top of your first layer is very smooth, I would suggest raising it until you start seeing holes or have sticking problems, then lower it back down until the holes disappear.
My MK3 Parts: [Bowden] [New Shoes] [TPU Micro Springs]
Re: Bad first print the Castle
Just my recommendation.
Had the exact same issues with the waves.
Its NOT from the nozzle being too close, its overextrusion on the first layer, since my first layer looked exactly the same and no matter what I did with the z-height, it did change nothing at all.
After a few days of nearly going insane, I noticed that the first layer extrusion in s3d and in slic3r were both set at 150%, which is WAY too much if you have a pretty good first layer.
The filament has nowhere left to go and pushes itself upwards.
I have calibrated my first layer perfectly and run a first layerheight of 105% instead of 150%.
Try that out if you dont get any further.
Re: Bad first print the Castle
Z-offset is too low. Bring it up until that goes away.
Thanks. Can you explain how to do that?
I would refer to the guide on doing First Layer Calibration, but it's kinda tricky with the built in gcode. I would suggest starting that castle print again, and once it starts printing the menu will have a Live Z Offset Adjust option in the main menu. You can raise and lower the nozzle from there. You need to raise it until the top of your first layer is very smooth, I would suggest raising it until you start seeing holes or have sticking problems, then lower it back down until the holes disappear.
Thanks. But why it’s happened just on the small size and not on the all?
Re: Bad first print the Castle
Hi Israel,
it is likely that the printed layer started to theright hand side of the picture and progressed towards the left,
is live z is too big a negative number, each successive line pushes the last layer slightly out of alignment and eventually there is too much movement, which causes these ripples. additionally, your print bed may be microscopically higher where the ripples are appearing, this can also cause rippling, and can be adjusted with live 'Z' adjust...
see the thread, 'Life djust, My way' on the forum
an additional LCD menu option allows you to cause differential 'Z' adjustment in 4 areas, left, right back and front.
and if you are brave enough, there is hyperfine bed levelling ( follow the thread on the forum)
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
Re: Bad first print the Castle
When you do a live Z adjust are the (-) negative numbers lowering the nozzle closer to the bed?
I am around -600 currently. Is that too large of an adjustment?
Thanks,
MK3 Kit, Designed, built 4x4 CNC Plasma Cutting Table, Motorcycles Bigdogbro's Adventures
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5djrxBeeOKB9_6rHnn6G8A
Re: Bad first print the Castle
I am around -600 currently. Is that too large of an adjustment?
Not necessarily. It depends on exactly how high you assembled your PINDA probe, which is why everyone's live Z will be a bit different.
Re: Bad first print the Castle
Peter,
Thanks, I set it up with the typical zip-ty process.
When you do a live Z adjust are the (-) negative numbers lowering the nozzle closer to the bed?
Still would like to know about the negative numbers direction for sure.
MK3 Kit, Designed, built 4x4 CNC Plasma Cutting Table, Motorcycles Bigdogbro's Adventures
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5djrxBeeOKB9_6rHnn6G8A
Re: Bad first print the Castle
The greater the negative number, the closer to the bed the nozzle is. -.100 is father away from the bed than -.605.
One this I did for the z height is change the value a set amount at each 'y' movement so the 'x' line would be at that setting during the calibration test print and recorded the values. Then once the print was done I measured the height of each 'x' line and got the corresponding 'z' height value. quick math gave me the 'live Z' value increment per extrusion height, and i was able to dial in exactly what I wanted.
Machine shows .20 first layer height, that's what I shot for.
Maybe not the best way, but it worked.
Re: Bad first print the Castle
When you do a live Z adjust are the (-) negative numbers lowering the nozzle closer to the bed?
Yes. So -0.500 is closer to the bed than -0.300.
Re: Bad first print the Castle
The greater the negative number, the closer to the bed the nozzle is. -.100 is father away from the bed than -.605.
One this I did for the z height is change the value a set amount at each 'y' movement so the 'x' line would be at that setting during the calibration test print and recorded the values. Then once the print was done I measured the height of each 'x' line and got the corresponding 'z' height value. quick math gave me the 'live Z' value increment per extrusion height, and i was able to dial in exactly what I wanted.
Machine shows .20 first layer height, that's what I shot for.
Maybe not the best way, but it worked.
I must be dense- the above made absolutely zero sense to me. Can you possibly clarify what you mean by "change the value a set amount at each 'y' movement" as well as "quick math gave me the 'live Z' value increment per extrusion height" .
Re: Bad first print the Castle
The V2calibration file draws a line along the X axis then moves the bed back about 25mm on the Y axis vefore drawi f a line in the opposite direction. On thw X Axis.
This repeats a number of times before making a small oblong at the end of the print.
The suggsetion was to coordinate the live z chznges with the bed movement
Regards joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
Re: Bad first print the Castle
Ah, that makes sense now. Thanks!
Re: Bad first print the Castle
Sorry Reid,
I have dyslexic fingers at the best of times, the message above was done on a mobile, which is not the best of times... glad you could get enough info to make sense. regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK