2 questions
First question—this is advertised on the site. "Hassle free PEI print surface - no glass, no glue, no ABS juice”
Does that also apply to my MK3 even though I got the sticker version of the spring steel plate?
Second question—does prusa state the full temperature range supported by MK3? By that i mean what is the max temp i can safely print on my printer?
Re: 2 questions
It doesnt matter which PEI version steelsheet you have, the only difference is the texture of the bottom of the print.
Handlingwise, there should be no difference.
They dont state the full temperature range, because they already said that its a full E3D V6 hotend.
So you can read up what that hotend is capable off just on the site of E3D.
Here is the quote from the E3D website:
"High Temperature Performance:
The V6 can comfortably reach 300°C with the supplied thermistor. By swapping a thermistor for a thermocouple (may require additional electronics) or PT100 you can reach over 400°C. This not only allows you to print extremely high temperature materials like Polycarbonate and Nylons but also eliminates HotEnd meltdown failures associated with PEEK/PTFE designs. The PTFE filament guide inside the V6 HotEnd is never subjected to high temperatures, so there is no risk of damage through overheating."
Re: 2 questions
That is great news! I got nervous because my printer came with a glue stick haha.
Thanks for grabbing that E3D info too.
Re: 2 questions
That is great news! I got nervous because my printer came with a glue stick haha.
Thanks for grabbing that E3D info too.
There are uses for glue, but it's usually for the opposite reason you might expect. For instance, PETG can sometimes stick TOO well to the PEI bed. Glue acts as a release agent, allowing it to stick to the glue and not the bed, so the bed remains intact.
Re: 2 questions
That is great news! I got nervous because my printer came with a glue stick haha.
Thanks for grabbing that E3D info too.
There are uses for glue, but it's usually for the opposite reason you might expect. For instance, PETG can sometimes stick TOO well to the PEI bed. Glue acts as a release agent, allowing it to stick to the glue and not the bed, so the bed remains intact.
Oh maybe I didnt ask the question right. This is what I am interested in.
Prusa says no buffer layer is needed for strong adhesion filament on the anodized sheet. Should I still use it on my sticker? I have PETG coming in a week.
Re: 2 questions
That is great news! I got nervous because my printer came with a glue stick haha.
Thanks for grabbing that E3D info too.
There are uses for glue, but it's usually for the opposite reason you might expect. For instance, PETG can sometimes stick TOO well to the PEI bed. Glue acts as a release agent, allowing it to stick to the glue and not the bed, so the bed remains intact.
Oh maybe I didnt ask the question right. This is what I am interested in.
Prusa says no buffer layer is needed for strong adhesion filament on the anodized sheet. Should I still use it on my sticker? I have PETG coming in a week.
I've had really good luck with the petg on the stickered sheet using the windex method from the manual. I put a paper towel on the top of the opened windex bottle and wet it in a spot. I rub the windex over the sheet partiuarly where the print is going to happen but also don't forget the area where the purge strip goes down. It should look lightly wet as it goes on. I then take a dry portion of the paper towel and lightly buff the surface of the plate. Done at room temp. After the print is done, remove the plate and let it cool. spring it and the parts pop right off. I flip the sheet for the next print. There will be some small witness marks from the print and flipping it over smooths the pei right back out.
Re: 2 questions
There are uses for glue, but it's usually for the opposite reason you might expect. For instance, PETG can sometimes stick TOO well to the PEI bed. Glue acts as a release agent, allowing it to stick to the glue and not the bed, so the bed remains intact.
Oh maybe I didnt ask the question right. This is what I am interested in.
Prusa says no buffer layer is needed for strong adhesion filament on the anodized sheet. Should I still use it on my sticker? I have PETG coming in a week.
I've had really good luck with the petg on the stickered sheet using the windex method from the manual. I put a paper towel on the top of the opened windex bottle and wet it in a spot. I rub the windex over the sheet partiuarly where the print is going to happen but also don't forget the area where the purge strip goes down. It should look lightly wet as it goes on. I then take a dry portion of the paper towel and lightly buff the surface of the plate. Done at room temp. After the print is done, remove the plate and let it cool. spring it and the parts pop right off. I flip the sheet for the next print. There will be some small witness marks from the print and flipping it over smooths the pei right back out.
That s great! Thank you so much.
What do you mean by this?
"There will be some small witness marks from the print and flipping it over smooths the pei right back out.”
Especially the flipping over part. I dont understand.
Re: 2 questions
What do you mean by this?
"There will be some small witness marks from the print and flipping it over smooths the pei right back out.”
Especially the flipping over part. I dont understand.
PET will leave a trace of the print on the pei sheet when the print is removed. It's easily cleanable.