textured sheet issues  

RE: textured sheet issues

The textured sheet requires a lot lower Live Z than the smooth sheet. Even then I found it to be too temperamental for my taste, so I switched to the BCZAMD textured sheets, which have handled any material I've thrown at them (PLA, PETG, ABS, PC, TPU) with ease. The surface is a bit coarser than what you get with the Prusa sheet but I'm used to it now.
They're on Amazon:
Mk3S: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XC673ZT/
Mini: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B088LPJ8PK/

RE: textured sheet issues

Also, give the sheet a good wash with dish soap and hot water several times and each time you try it and see if that makes it any better.  Mine was problematic for the first few prints and the washing sorted it out.  Dry off with paper towels or leave on a radiator to dry.

PETG can be printed on the smooth sheet, I used it all the time until I got the textured one and now generally use the textured one instead as I like the surface finish.

RE: textured sheet issues

If all the above fails, try hair spray.

RE: textured sheet issues

Thanks guys it’s just really frustrating that I can’t get petg to print 

RE: textured sheet issues

Posted by: @usmcsni

I can not get anything to stick to the textured sheet at all from PLA to PETG no matter what my z settings I have used IPA wipes can I print PETG on the smooth pei sheet 

Wipes are not going to be enough after you've used the bed for a bit. Have you tried the dunk under the sink with Dawn that @Lize suggested? It's the best overall method of getting the bed clean. In case you're wondering exactly why such simple-sounding steps work. Here’s an unscientific breakdown.

1. Isopropyl alcohol and acetone work as solvents breaking apart grease molecules. These solvents do not completely dissolve grease, but do break it down far enough that it can be removed from surfaces easily.

2. The more concentrated the solvent, the more effective it will be at a given volume. Those little 70% isopropyl wipes do work… on a shiny new PEI sheet. They’re just not effective in dealing with larger amounts of accumulated grease. This is why 91%+ alcohol is recommended.

3. Acetone is even more effective, breaking up oxidation on the PEI surface, but can make the PEI surface brittle and prone to cracking if over-used.

4. The amount of grease that any solvent will effectively break down is directly proportional to the volume of solvent to grease. The more solvent you apply, the more grease it can effectively break down. The more concentrated the solvent, the more grease a given quantity can break down.

5. Alcohol, acetone, and any other solution you apply directly to the bed is just going to move those broken-down grease and grime molecules around. Some will be picked up by wiping with a clean towel, but some will remain on the PEI sheet.

6. A dunk under the sink with Dawn dish soap is the most effective method of cleaning. Dish soap is a surfactant, not a solvent. It works in a fundamentally different way, bonding both grease and water molecules to wash away contaminants. The reason this is so effective is not that Dawn is “stronger”, but because there’s simply a much greater volume of Dawn and water and the grease is washed away from the PEI sheet.

7. Windex, a wipe of finger grease, talcum powder, or specialized release agents can be used to reduce adhesion when using hot, sticky materials that grip the PEI surface too firmly such as PETG. It is still a good idea to clean the PEI before a print to get an even surface, even if you will be applying a release agent for printing with sticky materials.

8. If you are printing high-temperature materials (e.g. PETG at 260C on a 90C bed), test to make sure it will release once cool without damaging the PEI surface. You may want to use a glue stick or other release agents for these materials. Test on a sacrificial PEI surface if possible. 

That said, some of the textured sheets are duds. Mine never did work. If you have never had good adhesion with it and you've tried these different methods, it might be worth trying the smooth PEI or another brand of textured sheet.

RE: textured sheet issues

Just one quick addition to what @bobstro said. While the Dawn brand is a common suggestion, in my experience any fragrant-free dish washing soap will do the job. My Simple Nature (or whatever it’s called) no-name brand from Stop-N-Shop works perfectly fine. What you don’t want is a brand that contains a bunch of extra ingredients-such as fragrants-that introduce new contaminants to the sheet. Simpler is more better 😉

RE: textured sheet issues

I'm currently using Anti-bacterial Eucalyptus Fairy as thats all there was in the supermarket!  My water is extremely hot though, to the point you couldn't hold your hands under it for more than a few seconds so most likely long rinsing under the hot tap does a good job.

RE: textured sheet issues

Definitely avoid anything with hand softeners or other additives if possible. Any plain dish soap should be fine. Fairy and Dawn are known to work well, so are usually recommended, but others work the same way. It just gets cumbersome to write out "Dawn or Fairy dish soap or your local equivalent" every time.

RE: textured sheet issues

Textured sheet is for petg, pla wil not stick good.

For pla use the pei sheet.

To get a good print:

1. Clean bed with dish soap, use a lot of hot water, and dry it of with clean paper towel, then use the sheet so it can dry( do not clean the bed and leave it without using it, it will rust).

2. First layer should be 100% perfect, see youtube for movies on how it should look like, to high or to low and sticking will get bad.

Both settings are needed to get sticking to maximum, and to avoid the bog ball of filament sticking to the nozzle.

RE: textured sheet issues

@peter I am using petg 

RE: textured sheet issues

I hated the textured sheet at first; nothing would stick.  In a post somewhere I read to use a 3m scotchbrite pad (cringe) and Dawn dishsoap.  I GENTLY used the pad, soap, and really hot water.  rinse and dry with a clean towel.  Now it works great with PETG of all brands.  You are probably already beyond this, but the textured surface is a way different initial Z-value (it is much thinner).  For my Mini (we are all different due to PINDA, nozzle/hotend, etc) the smooth is perfect at -0.996 while the textured surface is at -1.320.

Keep experimenting, it works and when you get it the results are really nice.  And I rarely wash it anymore, at room temperature just a quick wipe with 91% Isopropyl and dry with paper towel.  Good to go for next print.