Simple arduino enclosure
Hi Guys,
I would like to ask for your kind help to improve the print quality regarding to the attached model. First of all I would like to highlight that I'm absolutely a begginer in 3D modeling and printing. My goal is to design simple enclosures for my arduino sensors where the appearance is really important. I've prepared a test model in Fusion 360 with the recommended wall thickness for 0,1 layer height, that is 1,74 mm (4 perimeters). Please note that I've used different shapes and curves just to observe how they influence my actual print. On the attached picture I've highlihted in red where I'm experiencing issues.
I've tried different settings, you can find the result in the attached zip file.
The 1st print was printed with default Prusa Slicer settings, layer height is 0,2.
The 2nd with default settings and with 0,1 layer height.
The 3rd one with no gap fill, 0% infill perimeter overlap and modified external perimeter.
The 4th one with Simplify3D default Prusa profile.
I was able to achieve the best result with turning on detect thin walls in Prusa Slicer (5th print) but not fully satisfied with the result (5.1, 5.2, 5.3). I think that on some pictures I can see the so called bulge issue.
Printer: Prusa i3 MK3S+
Slicer: Pruse Slicer 2.3.1 win64+
Filament: Prusament PETG jet black
I would appreciate if you can give me some feedback what you think about the 5th print and how I can improve the print quality. I think I have to manage two diferrent issues on this modell (but correct me if I'm wrong): solid infill layer on the bottom, and the brim (or I don't know how to define it) where the number of perimeters increases combined with gap fill.
I've also attached the 3md file, you can find it in the zip file. Test print
Thank you,
Gábor
RE: Simple arduino enclosure
Its a common effect where the perimeters switch to using gapfill. Yes it is the 'buldge' issue. There several threads that document it with potential work arounds but theres not one size fix all.
The only way really is to make your walls thick enough that theres enough room for infill between the inner and outer perimeters. Or use a different slicer, although most of them will have similar potential issues at the moment.
The slightly smaller base where the bottom layers are could be down to material shrinkage, as the plastic cools it shrinks. The more plastic in an area the more noticeable it is. Given that bottom layers are solid its most noticeable there and unfortunately there is not much you can do about it. You can experiment with different temps and an enclosure but again, its one of those trial and error things you have to try with your printer/environment/filament choice.
Also be aware that detect thin walls can cause its own issues, although for your model it doesnt look like it is.
RE: Simple arduino enclosure
Another case of wishful thinking on walls too thin. I had the same issue printing "crank bank" inserts - I made the walls in the model too thin and the slicer without detect thin walls would leave whole sections of the wall un-rendered. I cranked my wall thickness to 2.5mm and things started looking better. I'm toying with a rule of thumb that if a model without "detect thin walls" doesn't get me a good render (you can see the defects in the slice) I made the walls too thin.
My wishful thinkin has always been "try to make it a vase print - but if you have irregular top or holes in the print, vase print won't print the whole model. So I'd try and make walls that were one extrusion wide - but the slicer just isn't set up to make that work well beyond a few centimeters in height. My new "minimum wall thickness" is 2.5mm - way better outcomes, no weird problems.
Another common "quality" issue is layers at .1mm. Not only does that take forever, but the odds of an error happening go way up (% of time * time = > number of errors). If you want super smooth outcome, get yourself some files, and graduations of sand paper. It's like wood. You can get the shape you want from a rasp. But to make the surface polished, you have some hand work to do. 3D prints are the same. Over-extrude so you can sand. Over temp so you get better layer adhesion. Slow down the velocity and set up your slice to always print in the same direction - and you can even get crystal clear results (after sanding and buffing)