Settings for first print with Polysmooth on MK3?
I bought a spool of PolyMaker Polysmooth to try out on my MK3 using PrusaSlicer, and am getting ready to try a first print.
I've read through quite a few threads on this filament, and there seem to be two ways I could go on settings:
-- Import PolyMaker's print profile MK3S_PrusaSlicer_PolySmooth.ini discussed in this thread:
https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/postid/574909/
However, it's a print profile, not a filament profile. It was apparently saved from an MK3S, and I'm not clear on whether there would be issues using it on my MK3 (non-S). I've looked at the .ini file in a text editor, and it's quite lengthy.
-- Or, alternately, I could leave PrusaSlicer set to Generic PLA and enter changes to settings manually. The ones I've run across so far that seem to be important include increasing the temperature to about 220 C; slowing down speed to 20 mm/s (though I haven't yet found where to do this in PrusaSlicer -- do I need to insert gcode?); and setting infill to 100%, rectilinear aligned.
Any advice on which way to go? Besides the settings I've mentioned, are there other important ones I should look at changing?
RE: Settings for first print with Polysmooth on MK3?
I've just bought 5 rolls, optimistic about my chances of printing a large turtle:)
MK3S
My first few attempts at a test tower used the polymaker profile. 3 fails
Second attempt I've switched to stock '0.2mm Detail' setting and polymaker filament settings (115C). 3 Fails. I definitely heard the extruder slipping here so this is why I've increased temp and slowed the print on next iteration.
Third attempt: Stock '0.2mm Detail' + Polysmooth filament setting increased temp to 120C. Speed slowed to 75% . We'll see what happens. I've also been drying the filament fro 5 hours so far. It started at 60% and is now at 32% humidity.
RE: Settings for first print with Polysmooth on MK3?
I've just bought 5 rolls, optimistic about my chances of printing a large turtle:)
MK3S
My first few attempts at a test tower used the polymaker profile. 3 fails
Second attempt I've switched to stock '0.2mm Detail' setting and polymaker filament settings (115C). 3 Fails. I definitely heard the extruder slipping here so this is why I've increased temp and slowed the print on next iteration.
Third attempt: Stock '0.2mm Detail' + Polysmooth filament setting increased temp to 120C. Speed slowed to 75% . We'll see what happens. I've also been drying the filament fro 5 hours so far. It started at 60% and is now at 32% humidity.
Sorry to hear about the rough going with the first tries. When you say they were fails, what exactly was going wrong?
I have zero experience with this filament, and relatively limited in general, but I wonder about the temperature. You mention 115C to 120C -- that isn't a typo? From what I've been reading I'd expect the nozzle temperature to be around 100C hotter than that (i.e. 215C to 220C).
RE: Settings for first print with Polysmooth on MK3?
I've not tried polysmooth myself, but I've liked the other polymaker filaments I've used.
Looking at their website, it's looking more like you need PLA temps(190C-220C) based on this page.
https://us.polymaker.com/products/polysmooth
RE:
Yes, sorry. I was a bit tired writing that.
215 and 220C
I’ve now tried a few temp towers and haven’t had stellar results but I think 220C produces the cleanest overhangs.
I did manage a few large prints too. More warping than PLA but these objects covered 80% of the plate at 200mm tall.
Some failures at highly detailed sections of the print. I’m not exactly what’s causing it but I think when it retracts too many times in a detailed section the extruder gauges out the filament and then it just sits there and slips for the remainder of the print. I might try less tension on the extruder and am considering the upgrade to mk3s+ since it’s supposed to have better extrusion.
RE: Settings for first print with Polysmooth on MK3?
Hi Eli, what retraction distance are you using at the moment,
for a Mk3S I use 0.4mm retraction for PLA and PETG, in preference to the Prusa default 0.8mm retraction
Main difference between Mk3 and Mk3S, is the filament sensor, mk3 has laser filament sensor, mk3S and Mk3S+ have the Infra Red filament sensor
if you comment out, or delete a line like this, beow, in the Custom G code, Start Gcode.
M862.3 P "[printer_model]" ; printer model check
the printer will not complain about the wrong printer model
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
RE: Settings for first print with Polysmooth on MK3?
Going back to my original question, I ended up trying the prints using PolySmooth with these settings changes:
-- In PrusaSlicer, used 0.10 DETAIL, 100% rectlinear infill, first layer and nozzle temperatures both 220 C
-- On the MK3, in the Tune menu slowed the speed down to 65%.
The main purpose of all of the above was to enhance the transparency of the printed object.
The second section finished printing last night, and both pieces are now propped up on pieces of galvanized baling wire in an airtight storage container with paper towel moderately soaked with 91% isopropyl.
So far the results seem to be okay. There were adhesion problems while printing one piece (despite using a brand-new smooth plate), and it kept coming loose when the print was about 95% done. Rotating the object 90 degrees on the bed fixed that. I noticed that when I ran a test piece through the isopropyl cure that it got very gooey if not watched carefully. Also it seemed to yellow somewhat as it cured (probably the fact that it was showing more of the actual color of the filament, as opposed to the more whitish appearance when it comes off the printer).
RE: Settings for first print with Polysmooth on MK3?
I've always used plain old vanilla PLA settings for the stuff. IMO the filament is a waste of time. At least for me, it's a disaster waiting to happen given the ubiquity of IPA. This is probably not true everywhere; I know in some countries getting IPA seems to be comparable to purchasing thorium. Which is just plain strange. Granted, I'm usually covered in acetone too, but at least it evaporates quickly if a drop finds its way onto a soluble print. Anyway, if you're using Polysmooth lots of details are going to be obliterated by the smoothing anyway so the quality of the print isn't a big deal. The only problem I had was layer shifts; I just cracked the parts apart at the shift and tacked them on the inside before smoothing, which then welded the seam. Actually, the major problem is that, at least for me, it takes a LONG time for the IPA to evaporate after smoothing, no matter little vapor I use (lower concentrations of course meaning absurd smoothing times). When I tried heating to accelerate evaporation, I got multitudes of bubbles which ruined parts.
Compared to smoothing ABS and ASA with acetone, the stuff is kind of a joke. What filament I have remaining I'm using for test prints, using PLA settings. The only reason I can think of for using it is if you can't find acetone, chloroform, THF, ether, or any of the other billion solvents that will smooth other materials just fine. If that's the case for you, go for it. Just don't let anyone drink near your parts, or you'll be mopping them up along with that spilled martini.