radically different results MK3 and MK3S same gfile
The right print is an MK3 assembled at Prusa, the one on left is printed on an MK3S I built from kit. What is causing such radically different results from the same .gcode and filament?
RE: radically different results MK3 and MK3S same gfile
Assembly mistakes ...
Seriously, you rushed the assembly and missed crucial steps.
The banding can be extruder gear misalignment and tension variation (out of round due to misplacement of the set screw , e.g., over tightening the set screw on the shaft round rather than shaft flat. It can also be caused by Z-Axis binding due to T-nut damage or even bent lead screws; even a poor spool holder position (though it's less likely).
RE: radically different results MK3 and MK3S same gfile
OK, to be clear, the print with the banding problem is the MK3 that came assembled from the factory. Also, previously, it was printing just fine. The print that is good (i.e. left) is the MK3S I assembled from the kit. So lets start from there. I'll check the gear set screw, etc.
Michael
RE: radically different results MK3 and MK3S same gfile
The results are so different and the picture so small that it's hard to say for sure. The older Mk3 seems to be producing noticably clearer walls (if that's what you're after) but with the bands you note. The newer Mk3s walls appear (as best I can see) to be more consistent. Are these vase mode prints? One obvious thing to check is the extrusion multiplier calibration to make sure the Mk3 is extruding properly. If the Mk3 nozzle is older, it may simply be more worn. A nozzle swap would be a quick and easy test. Temperature calibration might account for the different finish. Have you done PID tuning on both at the same temps?
and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan
RE: radically different results MK3 and MK3S same gfile
Sorry - dyslexia knows no excuses... lol. The causes still stand. Perhaps you've "upgraded" the MK3 or done something to it. Filament drive is about the only cycling that happens. A Bondtech with teeth filled on one side will cause the layering; a Bondtech that is slipping on the shaft will cause the layering; and you might have a bad wire in the extruder harness that is coming and going - but you'd see the temps vary on the display.
Extruding plastic is pretty simple. Heat, push, and you get plastic. Interrupt either and you don't get plastic. A nozzle jam would not be cyclic. A spool holder that is fighting the extruder every spool revolution could cause a problem - is the MK3 spool holder self retracting?
Anyway - post a photo of the printer - complete with spool feeding the printer so we can see the environment.
ps: Use the LINK TO : MEDIA FILE option when you insert the image.