Prusa Replacement Parts  

RE: Prusa Replacement Parts

I've had no issues printing replacement parts. With a sheet that was washed with soap and hot water and with proper Live Z adjustment (which is different for Satin and textured sheets than it is for smooth sheets), adhesion shouldn't be an issue. I use standard Prusament PETG settings and set perimeters to 3 and infill to 20% gyroid.

RE: Prusa Replacement Parts

I'll try it this evening again and wash it before the use, thank you.

Regards the sheets, I've got different profiles for satin and textured ones and other "simpler" prints work fine with PETG. Have you used support on the parts?

@prusa: If you read this, it would be interesting to have your settings. The possibility to learn something would be nice 😊 

RE: Prusa Replacement Parts

The soap was a nice idea, I'll try a few parts now. Thank you.

RE: Prusa Replacement Parts

@Prusa

I still think it would be an interesting idea to see your 3mf files, if this is possible. It would be a nice possibility to learn from you.

RE: Prusa Replacement Parts

Posted by: @fabian-4

@Prusa

I still think it would be an interesting idea to see your 3mf files, if this is possible. It would be a nice possibility to learn from you.

There's no "secret" setting to print Prusa MK3S parts. Actually, as per Prusa's documentation, parts should be printed for default PETG settings in Prusa Slicer, only infill (Grid pattern) must be increased to 20%.
Of course, not everyone is using same filament brand, so you need to set temperatures that suits the best your filament. That's also why I think, that providing 3mf files could cause more trouble than good -because not everyone is using the same filament brand and printer configuration.
In short, MK3S printer parts are nothing "special".

RE: Prusa Replacement Parts

only infill (Grid pattern) must be increased to 20%.

That's what they're saying, and that's how their gcode files are sliced. And it may well work fine in most cases but I've had too many issues with grid (lines cross within a layer, and can lead to pile-ups at the intersections and subsequent crashes) that made me prefer gyroid, with which I've never had such problems. 

3mf files could cause more trouble than good -because not everyone is using the same filament brand and printer configuration.

True, but in a 3mf file you can at least make changes (e.g. filament or printer settings) easily, and 3mf files can be very useful if the success of your print relies on precise support placements, use of modifier meshes, etc. GCODE on the other hand, I'd stay away from for precisely the same reasons mentioned, but unlike a 3mf file, with a .gcode file you can't make changes easily.

RE: Prusa Replacement Parts

@fuchsr

That's very interesting (I'm not arguing, just stating my experience) but I have the exact opposite problem on my machines, Grid seems to work perfectly for me and gyroid is a nozzle crashing clogger, (depending on the model & layer height) I find myself only using Gyroid when I need to relieve stress from large bed covering type models, I can make it work, but not my go to by any means.

I do wonder whats going on there?

regards

Swiss_Cheese

RE: Prusa Replacement Parts

I'm telling you, 3D printing is more voodoo than exact science... Gyroid is default in all my setting profiles and I would guess used in 90% of my prints, the rest adaptive cubic. I have no clue why it works great for me while grid sucks, and the other way around for you...

RE: Prusa Replacement Parts

Me either, and I don't doubt you.

RE: Prusa Replacement Parts

Well, I let it run over night and it seams my printer wasn't so happy with it 😀 

Normally I'll also print with Gyroid Infill, changed this due to the proposed settings from prusa, but give it another try with Gyroid now.

I still think the 3mf files could help someone, even if there's details like how to place the parts, which party are they printing together, do they have special support settings and so on.

Regards Material, I've got the Prusament PETG, so this should be fine with me. And adhersion is much improved after cleaning it with water and dish soap, I don't understand it, as I clean it also with IPA after each print, but if it works, it works.

I don't know, why Prusa is telling not to use water here. Is there a downside on the water-trick?

RE: Prusa Replacement Parts

I still think the 3mf files could help someone, even if there's details like how to place the parts, which party are they printing together, do they have special support settings and so on.

Before you decide to print multiple parts at once, make sure that you printer actually prints perfectly -otherwise it's just a waste of time and filament.
In most cases, printing single parts (one by one) is preferred, because you never know what might go wrong. If at all, then you decide for printing multiple parts, if parts are relative (or very) small. There's a reason for that and it has nothing to do with how much space is on print bed.
From what I can see on your last photo, your filament is probably wet and so what I just said applies even more.

I mentioned, default settings in slicer should be used for printer parts. So, why did you used supports? Again, there's no need to "tweak" anything in slicer settings. The only thing you change is infill density and that's all.

RE: Prusa Replacement Parts

Maybe I was a little bit too optimistic 😉 I'll do my next trials with single objects.

My printer is in the Basement, so the humidity is an issue (a bigger one in summer when humidity is around 65%, now we have 40%).
To work around this, I've got air-tight boxes for the unused filament and a drying box for the in-use filament (set to 65° for PETG / 55° for PLA):

I have now changed the nozzle back from 0.6mm to 0.4mm - to be in the default range and will do some tests with single parts with only the recommended changes.

Thank you all for the feedbacks and I'll keep you updated.

RE: Prusa Replacement Parts

The printer parts are designed to be printed with a 0.4 nozzle.  They arent suitable for 0.6 nozzles.  Well some might be but tolerances will be different and its not something I would print with.

You also asked about cleaning with IPA/water.  IPA dissolves things like skin oils.  It actually spreads them around and leaves a thin film of oil unless you use LOTS of the stuff, like litres and litres.  A detergent and hot water is a surfectant and will surround the oils and the hot water will rinse it away, removing it from the print sheet.  This is why hot water and detergent are much more effective in properly cleaning.

The reason PRUSA doesn't recommend it officially, especially with the powder coated sheets is that they are steel.  The powder coating is porous, which means water can and does get to the steel sheet.  Unless you very thoroughly dry it in a timely manner after washing it then its possible for rust to form on the sheet.  This causes the powder coating to detach.  Ergo ruined sheet.  Prusa don't want to deal with lots of customer complaints naturally.

However if you stick it on your print bed and heat the bed up to temperature and leave it for 10 minutes after washing it then that does a pretty good job of drying it out.  As I always preheat my print bed for 10  minutes before printing to allow for thermal expansion to settle out anyway then for me its not something I ever worry about.

Also if you are fastidious about NOT touching the sheet with your bare hands at any point then you only have to clean the sheet every few weeks, even when printing every day.

RE: Prusa Replacement Parts

I have now changed the nozzle back from 0.6mm to 0.4mm

Uh, yeah, that's an important detail you missed to mention... Some stuff can be printed with a larger nozzle but these parts are probably not in that category. If that's what's causing the problems, I'm not sure but I'd definitely revert to the standard 0.4 nozzle.

RE: Prusa Replacement Parts

Thank you for the feedback regards the IPA topic. Interesting point and I'll keep that in mind.

Soooo, after changing the nozzle and doing the first layer stuff until it suits me, I'll have another try with just one part. Let's see how this is working out.

Thank you all for your support! Great community 👍 

RE: Prusa Replacement Parts

I think it was / is a combination of lots topics, that it haven't worked out.

Just printing a part and it looks way better now:

Very happy about it, thank you guys!