Printing with different nozzle sizes?
So when I originally bought my MK3S (with MMU2S unit, but I haven't built that yet), one of my goals was to print D&D miniatures, so I also ordered an assortment of nozzle sizes from Amazon. I played around with printing minis with the .4mm nozzle, but things tend to break off (swords, weapons, etc) when removing support material. Well, I have a solution to that, print soluble supports... which leads me to getting my MMU2 up and running.
So I started printing the parts for the MMU2 enclosure, since I don't have a lot of space to put all the different spools of material. Well, the first set of parts took 14+ hours, and the next set 18+. I then realize... "I've got a .8mm nozzle I can use!". Well, I've figured out how to replace the nozzle, but now I've got a few questions:
1) Are there pre-built settings for Prusa Slicer for using a .8mm nozzle with PETG? Or do I just need to switch nozzle size in my settings and hope for the best?
2) I probably need to do a first layer calibration, but that is specifically tuned for a .4mm nozzle. How do I get my first layer calibration when I switch to the larger nozzle?
3) Is there anything else I'm leaving out before I try this thing?
Best Answer by bobstro:
[...] Well, the first set of parts took 14+ hours, and the next set 18+. I then realize... "I've got a .8mm nozzle I can use!".
Be careful here. Some folks smarter than myself have noted that printing Prusa printer parts using anything other than a 0.40mm nozzle may result in poor fit. Big nozzles are fantastic for speeding things up, but if you need a high degree of precision, may not be your best bet. (Right brush for the painting and all that.)
Well, I've figured out how to replace the nozzle, but now I've got a few questions:
1) Are there pre-built settings for Prusa Slicer for using a .8mm nozzle with PETG? Or do I just need to switch nozzle size in my settings and hope for the best?
I never did bother getting my MMU2 going, but I have played a hell of a lot with various nozzle sizes. You're welcome to try my profiles for different filaments and nozzle sizes. The config bundle linked on that page is a bit old, but I can update it later this week if you find anything useful.
2) I probably need to do a first layer calibration, but that is specifically tuned for a .4mm nozzle. How do I get my first layer calibration when I switch to the larger nozzle?
The on-board routine is configured for a 0.40mm nozzle, true, but it's easy enough to adapt Jeff Jordan's excellent "Life Adjust" Live-Z calibration approach to any nozzle or filament size. I've got pre-generated gcode for PLA and PETG using different nozzle sizes on this page. Again, let me know if you need anything specific and I'll update the pages later this week.
3) Is there anything else I'm leaving out before I try this thing?
Just a couple of notes:
- A hardened nozzle is useful if you want to print abrasive materials like carbon-fibre, glow in the dark, or other filled materials. Testing has shown that some materials can degrade a nozzle badly within a 1Kg spool.
- Coated nozzles can help when printing PETG and other sticky materials that like to adhere to the nozzle or heater block. A silicone sock for the block is also very helpful.
- The E3D Nozzle-X is both hardened and coated, and intended for very high temp materials. The Olsson Ruby is overkill as well. You don't need to spend that much for printing with most filaments.
I dove into trying different nozzles out within weeks of getting my Mk3 and I'm glad I did. Getting past the reluctance to swap nozzles and filaments has made me much more productive, and I've learned a hell of a lot along the way (much captured on my notes pages). Play around in a single filament setting for a bit to get a feel for things. I'm afraid I can't offer much help on transitioning to using the MMU2 with other nozzles.
RE: Printing with different nozzle sizes?
Get comfortable printing with the stock printer first. Making changes before you get a feel for how it normally prints can leave you wondering when problems crop up. For example, asking about how to do a Live-Z cal for a 0.8 nozzle seems a bit naive. After learning how to cal a 0.4 mm nozzle, calibrating any nozzle should be second nature. That isn't a knock, or shouldn't be, it's just an observation. Learn a bit with the 0.4 and the wealth of supplied well tuned profiles; then begin your stretch into the unknown... lol.
As for 0.8 profiles, nothing supplied by Prusa, that I know of; though pretty sure there are users who have developed working profiles. One trick is to set the new nozzle extrusion widths to 0 - it lets the slicer automatically choose the proper widths based on your setting of nozzle diameter, and save you the trouble of experimenting. And with larger nozzles and layer heights it can do, volumetric flow becomes a factor. That usually will require some testing to determine just how much plastic you can extrude over time.
RE: Printing with different nozzle sizes?
[...] Well, the first set of parts took 14+ hours, and the next set 18+. I then realize... "I've got a .8mm nozzle I can use!".
Be careful here. Some folks smarter than myself have noted that printing Prusa printer parts using anything other than a 0.40mm nozzle may result in poor fit. Big nozzles are fantastic for speeding things up, but if you need a high degree of precision, may not be your best bet. (Right brush for the painting and all that.)
Well, I've figured out how to replace the nozzle, but now I've got a few questions:
1) Are there pre-built settings for Prusa Slicer for using a .8mm nozzle with PETG? Or do I just need to switch nozzle size in my settings and hope for the best?
I never did bother getting my MMU2 going, but I have played a hell of a lot with various nozzle sizes. You're welcome to try my profiles for different filaments and nozzle sizes. The config bundle linked on that page is a bit old, but I can update it later this week if you find anything useful.
2) I probably need to do a first layer calibration, but that is specifically tuned for a .4mm nozzle. How do I get my first layer calibration when I switch to the larger nozzle?
The on-board routine is configured for a 0.40mm nozzle, true, but it's easy enough to adapt Jeff Jordan's excellent "Life Adjust" Live-Z calibration approach to any nozzle or filament size. I've got pre-generated gcode for PLA and PETG using different nozzle sizes on this page. Again, let me know if you need anything specific and I'll update the pages later this week.
3) Is there anything else I'm leaving out before I try this thing?
Just a couple of notes:
- A hardened nozzle is useful if you want to print abrasive materials like carbon-fibre, glow in the dark, or other filled materials. Testing has shown that some materials can degrade a nozzle badly within a 1Kg spool.
- Coated nozzles can help when printing PETG and other sticky materials that like to adhere to the nozzle or heater block. A silicone sock for the block is also very helpful.
- The E3D Nozzle-X is both hardened and coated, and intended for very high temp materials. The Olsson Ruby is overkill as well. You don't need to spend that much for printing with most filaments.
I dove into trying different nozzles out within weeks of getting my Mk3 and I'm glad I did. Getting past the reluctance to swap nozzles and filaments has made me much more productive, and I've learned a hell of a lot along the way (much captured on my notes pages). Play around in a single filament setting for a bit to get a feel for things. I'm afraid I can't offer much help on transitioning to using the MMU2 with other nozzles.
and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan
RE: Printing with different nozzle sizes?
I'll certainly keep that in mind. I don't THINK there's a high tolerance involved with printing the parts for the LACK enclosure based upon the ones I've already printed, but I'll definitely be careful on that.
I never did bother getting my MMU2 going, but I have played a hell of a lot with various nozzle sizes. You're welcome to try my profiles for different filaments and nozzle sizes. The config bundle linked on that page is a bit old, but I can update it later this week if you find anything useful.
Thanks! This is at least a starting point for when I start working with different nozzles. I played with the .25 and .30 ones for awhile, but could never get a really good print from them, so I went back to the .40. These new profiles should at least get me a few steps closer than where I was.
The on-board routine is configured for a 0.40mm nozzle, true, but it's easy enough to adapt Jeff Jordan's excellent "Life Adjust" Live-Z calibration approach to any nozzle or filament size. I've got pre-generated gcode for PLA and PETG using different nozzle sizes on this page. Again, let me know if you need anything specific and I'll update the pages later this week.
OOOh, I grabbed the .40 PETG one and that made it really easy to get a new Z dialed in for PETG. Thank you!
I'll definitely be looking into getting a coated nozzle for the PETG. Cleaning that stuff off is a real pain. I'm probably not ready to dive into anything like metal-fill YET, but I've definitely thought about it, so a hardened nozzle will be an investment in the not-too-distant future.
Again, thanks for all the advice!
RE: Printing with different nozzle sizes?
I'll certainly keep that in mind. I don't THINK there's a high tolerance involved with printing the parts for the LACK enclosure based upon the ones I've already printed, but I'll definitely be careful on that.
Ah, 0.80mm should be fine for LACK parts. Thought you were printing MMU2 parts!
OOOh, I grabbed the .40 PETG one and that made it really easy to get a new Z dialed in for PETG. Thank you!
Glad it worked for you. Jeff Jordan deserves a knight's cross or something equivalent for his "Life Adjust" approach. So much easier to use than the on-board routine.
I'll definitely be looking into getting a coated nozzle for the PETG. Cleaning that stuff off is a real pain. I'm probably not ready to dive into anything like metal-fill YET, but I've definitely thought about it, so a hardened nozzle will be an investment in the not-too-distant future.
Check out P3-D's nozzles. Their Apollo series are coated, a bit harder than brass (though not really hardened like steel) but also have very good thermal characteristics. I use these as my general-purpose printing nozzles. Their Hercules are hardened still and also coated. A good middle ground between the bare hardened steel (which filament LOVES to adhere to) and E3D's Nozzle-X. Also consider adding a silicone sock to keep filament off your heater block.
Don't be too concerned about metal or other fills. They're pretty easy to work with, but realize you'll probably have to do some post-processing to get good effects. They look a bit rough 1st off the printer.
I encourage anybody buying a Mk3 to dive in with different nozzles and materials. They really open up the opportunities for you. Have fun with it!
and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan
RE: Printing with different nozzle sizes?
For hardened nozzles: some of the Tungsten Carbide nozzles are getting great reviews for their similarity to brass thermal response. Unlike steel, no temperature tweaks are needed for printing.