Printing replacement nozzle fan cover  

Re: Printing replacement nozzle fan cover

Turn off supports.

It should print fine without them.

🙂

Re: Printing replacement nozzle fan cover

Turn off supports.

It should print fine without them.

🙂

I've tried it and I'm having an issue with z layer 8.15 in Slic3r of nozzle-fan.stl (the main area of red in the image I'm attaching). It's a fairly large flat patch with not enough below it to support, everything looks fine until I get to this point. You can see the yellow beneath the red, those areas just get melted on top, and there's nothing for that large flat patch to sit on beside very spaced out supports (visible in yellow right below the red).

Are there recommended print settings to let me get large unsupported flat areas like that? I can see how the other top part works by ramping the top upward 1 layer at a time but the layer at Z 8.15 (with my print settings at .15mm optimal) is just flat. I tried it at .10mm detail and had the same issue. Thanks for any advice.

Re: Printing replacement nozzle fan cover

Turn off supports.

It should print fine without them.

🙂

I've tried it and I'm having an issue with z layer 8.15 in Slic3r of nozzle-fan.stl (the main area of red in the image I'm attaching). It's a fairly large flat patch with not enough below it to support, everything looks fine until I get to this point. You can see the yellow beneath the red, those areas just get melted on top, and there's nothing for that large flat patch to sit on beside very spaced out supports (visible in yellow right below the red).

Are there recommended print settings to let me get large unsupported flat areas like that? I can see how the other top part works by ramping the top upward 1 layer at a time but the layer at Z 8.15 (with my print settings at .15mm optimal) is just flat. I tried it at .10mm detail and had the same issue. Thanks for any advice.

What material are you printing with? What is the cooling fan speed? specifically, when bridging.

You may want to download and try a bridge calibration test. (Post the pictures here, will give a better idea on how/why/what is failing)

Re: Printing replacement nozzle fan cover

What material are you printing with? What is the cooling fan speed? specifically, when bridging.

You may want to download and try a bridge calibration test. (Post the pictures here, will give a better idea on how/why/what is failing)

I am printing with Prusa ABS. I am using the default fan settings, under cooling it says Bridges fan speed is 30. The only thing I've changed from the default Prusa ABS profile is that I have changed the bed temperature to 120 at first layer and 115 at other layers.

Re: Printing replacement nozzle fan cover

I've gotten it to print those top layers but the whole thing is much messier than when I've printed with ABS in the past (today I've had to mess with live adjust Z quite a bit to get the initial layers to come out decent). When I checked on the print about 55 minutes in it was printing the top screw hole and it seemed the past few layers weren't solidified at all. The whole square with the screw whole in the middle was soft and the nozzle was just pushing the top 2 millimeters around as if it was jello.

I've been able to get accurate ABS prints before, I'm not sure why it's acting up like this. I have to have the live z nozzle setting fairly close to the print bed, otherwise the first layers come out very loosely spaced. (I use -680 for PLA but this black ABS doesn't seem to print right unless I get it around -740 for the live z). The circular areas around the back view of the base are the brim. It seemed to be flat during printing and only deformed the base upon taking it off the print bed while still warm. I use a tightly sealed enclosure so drafts aren't an issue.

I've cleaned my print bed and I'm currently trying the same model exported through Cura using the MK2 settings for ABS to see if there's any improvement. (I notice the temp settings are 20 degrees lower than MK3's Slic3r ABS settings). The first 1mm is looking nice but I'm not getting my hopes up as the problems always start higher up.

*UPDATE: 2nd test failed at 38 minutes in, exported through Cura instead of Slic3r this time, the body turned out cleaner but again big issues when trying to fill the top of the part and it ended up ripping pieces off the object. See 3rd picture

Re: Printing replacement nozzle fan cover

Try printing it with the fan at 100%. I find printing with abs and the fan @100%, yields good results... It will drop layer adhesion a lot... If layers peel off can it is really weak, increase temp. My cheap ABS likes 265c. If you are still having issues, I'll try a better write-up about how I tuned my ABS, to print like PLA...

Re: Printing replacement nozzle fan cover

I’ve been running this one. It prints good and seems to cool well.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2748058/#files

Re: Printing replacement nozzle fan cover

Try printing it with the fan at 100%. I find printing with abs and the fan @100%, yields good results... It will drop layer adhesion a lot... If layers peel off can it is really weak, increase temp. My cheap ABS likes 265c. If you are still having issues, I'll try a better write-up about how I tuned my ABS, to print like PLA...

Set the fan to auto and let slicer handle the fan/speed and see if that gives you better results.

Re: Printing replacement nozzle fan cover

Set the fan to auto and let slicer handle the fan/speed and see if that gives you better results.

I was unable to print a 10x10x10 CUBE, with slic3r "defaults" for ABS. It didn't even resemble a cube... maybe abstract art?

Turning the fan on, did DESTROY my layer adhesion.

eg:
with fan at auto, which is OFF except briding... ABS @ 230c, I was getting GOOD layer adhesion, but lots thermal warping, and poor extrusion consistency.
with fan at auto, ABS @ 250c, I was getting great layer adhesion, but 20% thermal warping on the test cube. (Basically, it was about 8mm, instead of 10!)

With fan set at 100%, ABS @ 230, the layers simply did not stick together, at all. It was a mess.
Fan set at 100%, ABS @ 250, the layers were starting to stick decently, but could still be easily pulled apart.
Fan set at 100%, ABS @ 260, the layers were strong, but still easily detached by hand.
Fan set at 100% ABS @ 265, the layers were strong enough that I could not break them by hand. (Not saying I tried super hard, I don't print structural)

If I was to print a structural part, I would "cook" the ABS at 270 or 275. I highly doubt it would hurt the filament. And layer adhesion would be superb.

Either way.

Printing ABS without the fan, I have no idea how you could do it. After getting the layer adhesion dialed in, I printed a marvin, that printed flawless.

I highly doubt with a default ABS profile, a marvin would even resemble a marvin.

Re: Printing replacement nozzle fan cover

Update: This time I tried printing using PrusaControl instead of Slic3r or Cura using Prusa Abs settings (as I'm using prusa abs material) and here are my results. first using Optimal settings (first photo) and Detail settings (second photo) both times failing at printing the top cover for the piece. At this point I'm pretty disappointing on the 2nd day of trying to print this part (I've also tried making an alternate part from thingverse that had the same issues printing the overhanging top). I'll try the one suggested by allen.m2 in this thread before I just give up completely and pay to have the part printed and shipped to me. I saw a recent Joseph Prusa thread saying that parts can be printed with the default settings in prusacontrol or Slic3r Prusa edition and the default settings in my experience are woefully inadequate.

Does it seem likely that Prusa would be able to give their exact print setting for when they print these parts? As the one I received doesn't look horrible and I'm curious how in the world they managed it. They must be printing several of these things a day and it would be helpful if they could their exact profiles for each part because this piece is an absolute mess beyond the first layer.

Re: Printing replacement nozzle fan cover

Update: This time I tried printing using PrusaControl instead of Slic3r or Cura using Prusa Abs settings (as I'm using prusa abs material) and here are my results. first using Optimal settings (first photo) and Detail settings (second photo) both times failing at printing the top cover for the piece. At this point I'm pretty disappointing on the 2nd day of trying to print this part (I've also tried making an alternate part from thingverse that had the same issues printing the overhanging top). I'll try the one suggested by allen.m2 in this thread before I just give up completely and pay to have the part printed and shipped to me. I saw a recent Joseph Prusa thread saying that parts can be printed with the default settings in prusacontrol or Slic3r Prusa edition and the default settings in my experience are woefully inadequate.

Attached is my ABS cooling profile, and speeds for 0.2mm layer height.
I print the first layer at 270, and everything else at 265.

Here is a picture of Marvin printed in ABS with this profile.

Re: Printing replacement nozzle fan cover

Attached is my ABS cooling profile, and speeds for 0.2mm layer height.
I print the first layer at 270, and everything else at 265.

Here is a picture of Marvin printed in ABS with this profile.

Thank you very much, I will try it out. What do you use for bed temperatures? Also, do you think these settings would need to be adjusted much if I wanted to print at .10 or .15 instead of .2mm?

Re: Printing replacement nozzle fan cover

Thank you very much, I will try it out. What do you use for bed temperatures? Also, do you think these settings would need to be adjusted much if I wanted to print at .10 or .15 instead of .2mm?

I'm not sure. The issue with thinner layers, is layer adhesion will get worse. It would take a handful of tests to see what would need to be done.
(Temp Tower, followed by Fan tower, then back to the Temp tower, and possibly one last Fan tower) Each being about a 3 hour print, with tuning between them.

I run the bed at a toasty 100c.

There is also the theory of "slowing down" to increase layer adhesion... I have not attempted to go down that route yet, that would net 2-3 days of testing I think, as that's getting into a painful level of tests.

EG:
Speed 1 Temp tower, Fan tower, Temp Tower, Fan Tower
Speed 2 Temp tower, Fan Tower, Temp Tower, Fan tower
Speed 3 Temp tower, Fan tower, Temp Tower, Fan Tower
Speed 4 Temp tower, Fan Tower, Temp Tower, Fan tower

^-- That's about how many test groups I think I would need, at 12 hours print time for each, but not being one constant print, more like 1.5 days "per" so about 6 days of full testing. 😉

I may look into it when I have my printer in a "non-prototype" state again. I plan on ABS being my "go to" filament, for stuff to sell. (Acetone Smoothing ftw)

Re: Printing replacement nozzle fan cover

Thank you very much, I will try it out. What do you use for bed temperatures? Also, do you think these settings would need to be adjusted much if I wanted to print at .10 or .15 instead of .2mm?

I'm not sure. The issue with thinner layers, is layer adhesion will get worse. It would take a handful of tests to see what would need to be done.
(Temp Tower, followed by Fan tower, then back to the Temp tower, and possibly one last Fan tower) Each being about a 3 hour print, with tuning between them.

I run the bed at a toasty 100c.

There is also the theory of "slowing down" to increase layer adhesion... I have not attempted to go down that route yet, that would net 2-3 days of testing I think, as that's getting into a painful level of tests.

EG:
Speed 1 Temp tower, Fan tower, Temp Tower, Fan Tower
Speed 2 Temp tower, Fan Tower, Temp Tower, Fan tower
Speed 3 Temp tower, Fan tower, Temp Tower, Fan Tower
Speed 4 Temp tower, Fan Tower, Temp Tower, Fan tower

^-- That's about how many test groups I think I would need, at 12 hours print time for each, but not being one constant print, more like 1.5 days "per" so about 6 days of full testing. 😉

I may look into it when I have my printer in a "non-prototype" state again. I plan on ABS being my "go to" filament, for stuff to sell. (Acetone Smoothing ftw)

Thank you so much, your settings have made the part printable. I am currently selling my custom figurines and gadgets in PLA and everything will be so much better in smoothed ABS. I've been able to print simple solid objects (some custom revolver grips) in ABS and they looked great by doing acetone vapor smoothing in a paint can. Now I can finally do stuff that's more complex.

Re: Printing replacement nozzle fan cover

Thank you so much, your settings have made the part printable. I am currently selling my custom figurines and gadgets in PLA and everything will be so much better in smoothed ABS. I've been able to print simple solid objects (some custom revolver grips) in ABS and they looked great by doing acetone vapor smoothing in a paint can. Now I can finally do stuff that's more complex.

No problem. It's the responses like this, that I do it for. 🙂

I just get a touch frustrated, because everyone seems to think. "Default better. Sean no know what he do."

Just make sure you have strong enough layer adhesion, and as per normal, do anything+everything, you can to get better bed adhesion... ABS does NOT like to stay stuck. 😉

Re: Printing replacement nozzle fan cover

@sean.h8 I just have to say, your ABS settings are brilliant - my first attempt at the nozzle (with support) was a melted lump of Cheddar but the second attempt (using your config) was almost perfect. Almost because it lost adhesion on one side and peeled up, but that's a separate issue! I believed the hype on this reddit and assumed that my new clean PEI would grip the ABS but the ABS won again... 🙄 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7k0k8i/abs_juice_on_pei_sheet/