Printing issues
Hi, I had my first 3D printer last month (a Prusa I3 MK3S) and for now I am quite worried : I was not able to print a lot of prints without any supports.
Does the slicer must produce supports when needed ?
For example, I am trying to print this skull : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:518748
Are you able to print it directly with your Prusa ?
I tried several times with Black Galaxy Prusament : prints gets stringy and after some layers, the hotend bumps into layers and the prints gets lost.
I tried to enforce support (only starting from the bed) :
- In the fore head, it is a part with no support and the skull breaks at this point
- The massive quantity of support elsewhere make the rest of the print unusable.
I then tried to print in two parts. I split the skull just above the eyebrows.
I tried to print the top part without any support. It fails.
I tried, 2 times, to print the top part of the skull with supports from the bed. every time, the nozzle gets clogged after 2 cm of height. I've used Slicer 2.0 for the gcode.
I am trying this top part with Cura 4 to see if it gets better.
This is now 1/3 of Black Galaxy filament wasted.
Is it possible to print this piece with a Prusa i3 MK3S or is there something wrong with my printer ?
thanks for your help.
David
RE: Printing issues
Easy to print with a Mk3 ... just use default settings and don't try to "out engineer" the Prusa settings.
About the only non-default is you should have Detect Bridging turned on.
You'll also need a meticulously clean bed. Was in soap and water to get there.
Post a photo of one of your failures, that might help identify where you are having problems.
RE: Printing issues
Then there are these comments on Thingy ... so it isn't as ready to print as is.
I second this. This model isn't properly grounded out of the box
RE: Printing issues
Every print you need to adjust,
read a lot on the forum then you learn the possibilities,
then you need to practice.
Speed, the 200 mm infill speed, i set to 150, and made a new profile.
Brim is often needed, a big flat object will curl up, so a brim attached to the object will help, also as extra glue stick(sometimes),
small surface to the bed from a print, needs a big brim to hold it to the bed.
Filaments that sticks to well to the bed, glue stick will help.
Perimeters standard is 2, if 4 or 6 makes part stronger, infill bigger, does not make part stronger.
Support you have to set yourself, check objects very good before printing if it is possible.
Supports you cab also make yourself with different programs, like tree support, then you change the stl files, so that you can print without support in the slicer.
RE: Printing issues
Hi,
I made some tests today --'
I came back to benchies to check things.
I printed the benchy gcode from my initial SD Card. And I slided the stl file with slicer 2.0 to check with the slicer.
Both benchies came great. The slicer 2.0 benchy was even slightly better :
Then I started again with slicer 2.0 but with my modification made for Octolapse. Before every layer, it inserts a G4 P1 that is used by Octolapse to trigger a snapshop. And here 'catastrophe', it was impossible to bridge :
A launch a testing print without octolapse, and it came great.
In parallel, I read the comments in Thingiverse (by the way thanks for the tips, i didn't notices that there were comments :p).
I've understood that the maker used meshmixer to add tree support manualy. As I see that the forehead was broken, I tried to use meshmixer to propose the supports. Tomorrow, I will try to print the initial skull without Octolapse. If it will not work, I will try my ultra-supported version.
If it don't work again, I will use tim-m30 tip and remove the first layer.
Thanks for all your remarks.
My learning today :
- clean pei sheet with dish soap - I used only alcool but now with this washing it is great. Thanks, tim-m30.
- After each print, unload filament and reload filament - I have noticed that If I don't immediatly start a new print, the nozzle cloggs a bit. Heating at 230°, unloading and loading makes it restart great.
Thanks
RE: Printing issues
- After each print, unload filament and reload filament - I have noticed that If I don't immediatly start a new print, the nozzle cloggs a bit. Heating at 230°, unloading and loading makes it restart great.
... Well, 230 is a bit hot for most PLA. I never change filament between prints unless I am changing colors or materials. And 230 may be cooking the PLA and boiling off some of the more volatile components, making it clog for you. In general, never leave the hot end running, as cooking filament is a known bad idea.
I like this a lot, thank you for making. My print failed twice because left side of jaw was curling up early on. It was not touching the bed. I removed the bottom layer in Slic3r and it turned out great.