Print fails shortly after color change
Hi, I've been trying to print a groot model and it failed already twice almost in the same place. I'm attaching my gcode and a picture of the failed prints. Since I didn't build my MMU2S unit yet, I set a position in the gcode for a color change. Both spools are Prusament PLA, the first is 'Viva la bronze' and the second is 'Mystic green'. The previous print was with flexifill 98a, I had an extruder blob issue with it, but after cleaning up as much as I could it printed what I needed. Then I changed to PLA viva la bronze and forgot to tighten the idler screw, that resulted in the left hand side print in the picture. The print should be solid, but layers seem to be almost missing in the middle. Looking at the missing layers I thought the issue was that the loose idler couldn't pull the PLA properly so I retightened the screw and printed again, but again layers were missing (right hand side print). As you can see, both times the issue started happening shortly after changing to mystic green, both times viva la bronze printed well. Is the issue somehow with my Mystic green filament or do I have a slicing or hardware problem?
Slicing was d0ne with PrucaSlicer set to PLA, 0.1mm quality, 10% infill, 30mm brim, skirt 32mm from object (brim + 2). I also now noticed that I accidently used the generic PLA settings rather than Prusament PLA, could that be the issue? As far as I can tell the difference is that the extruder is set to 210 degrees instead of 215 (side question, why is there a difference?).
gcode file
gcode didn't seem to upload, here's the link:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RujDSLBrCTFsVVEuygnbhgeeUZYij7eJ/view?usp=sharing
test print
have you tried reversing the order of the filaments, print the mystic green first and then the bronze. I'm curious if you get a failure with mystic green when it's first.
I found that I had to print mystic brown 10 degrees hotter than usual (225) to get it to be even vaguely reliable. Even then on long prints it still often produced a partial clog. No where near the amount you pictured but enough to make the print very weak at that layer and basically un useable. So yes I can very well believe that the temperature is the cause.
I ended up using 235 in the end for it. I should mention that I'm using a steel nozzle x so all my temps are boosted but for a normal pla where its around 200 I use 215 to get the same print characteristics. So its the equivalent of printing it at 225 with a brass nozzle.
Now I can answer both
After posting my question I went on to print the Prusa tension meter in PETG (Prucament ultramarine) and it printed very nicely. My Y axis was slightly too tight so I loosened it. I then tried Mystic green PLA again on a different model (this time only one color). I set the extruder temperature to 225 as suggested and printed at about 50% speed due to overhangs. Again the print failed due to under-extrusion (and then no extrusion), see picture. When I came it was already a few layers up with no filament coming out. The filament unloaded fine but was slightly thicker at the end. Cutting and reloading the filament extruded fine. Now trying to print again with extruder heated to 230 degrees.
RE: Print fails shortly after color change
@roy-3
I would just like to point out, you are printing a PLA that is known to jam, and your printing it at 0.1mm layer height that can cause jamming issues, if I read your first post correctly?, it would probably be a good idea to keep the hot end at 225 or less and raise your layer height, I would start out by experimenting with a layer height of 0.2 and if that works try 0.15 leaving the speeds at default settings and see where that gets you.
Good Luck
Swiss_Cheese
The Filament Whisperer