Notifications
Clear all

Polycarbonate sticking too wellbut issues with heating  

  RSS
Chocki
(@chocki)
Prominent Member
Polycarbonate sticking too wellbut issues with heating

I tried Rigid.Ink poly-carbonate for the first time today on a Prima Buildtak surface as I heard it is supposed to be really difficult to stop it lifting.
Who told this pack of lies!.
I am printing at 295 Dec C and the print bed is at 115 Dec C, I had to abandon the print as the printer keeps pausing and displaying heating, so I thought I would play with slicer settings to try a little less heat and less speed, but by now had about 5mm of my print done when I stopped it.
Let it cool down then struggled like hell to remove it, it was almost welded to the surface.

I tried this using metacollins method and it seems to work well.... Too well maybe.
https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/print-tips-archive--f86/polycarbonate-here-s-how-to-print-it-without-warpi-t6919.html

I will try again tomorrow but first how to stop this heating pausing issue?, do you thing PID calibration at the high temp would help?

Normal people believe that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Engineers believe that if it ain’t broke, it doesn’t have enough features yet.

Napsal : 05/04/2019 8:23 pm
vintagepc
(@vintagepc)
Member
Re: Polycarbonate sticking too wellbut issues with heating

On a Mk3, turn off the filament sensor. It's been known to cause this. A PID calibration also wouldn't help, and if you're going to print at higher temps see if you can get a silicone hot-end sock that can handle those temperatures. It'll greatly reduce how much power needs to be pumped into it to stay at temperature.

Napsal : 05/04/2019 8:36 pm
Chocki
(@chocki)
Prominent Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Polycarbonate sticking too wellbut issues with heating

Thanks, found this:
https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/hardware-firmware-and-software-help-f44/-heating-pauses-in-prints--t26359.html

Now thinking about it, the PC filament is clear so that would make sense.

I'll try the print again tomorrow.
What I have also done is set the skirt to two loops 10mm from the object and the same height as the object as this should help keep the temperature up in the print.
I'm looking forward to completing this first Polycarbonate print, the first 5 mm is looking good and strong and the loop I cant pull apart, but the fumes!... 😐

Normal people believe that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Engineers believe that if it ain’t broke, it doesn’t have enough features yet.

Napsal : 05/04/2019 10:02 pm
vintagepc
(@vintagepc)
Member
Re: Polycarbonate sticking too wellbut issues with heating


Thanks, found this:
https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/hardware-firmware-and-software-help-f44/-heating-pauses-in-prints--t26359.html

Now thinking about it, the PC filament is clear so that would make sense.

I'll try the print again tomorrow.
What I have also done is set the skirt to two loops 10mm from the object and the same height as the object as this should help keep the temperature up in the print.
I'm looking forward to completing this first Polycarbonate print, the first 5 mm is looking good and strong and the loop I cant pull apart, but the fumes!... 😐

And now you know why enclosures are recommended for ABS and PC... it's not just for the warp. 😀

Napsal : 05/04/2019 10:39 pm
Chocki
(@chocki)
Prominent Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Polycarbonate sticking too wellbut issues with heating

Yes.... I thought may be possible without one. Ive got the 2 LACK tables ready, just have not had time to make the enclosure yet.

Normal people believe that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Engineers believe that if it ain’t broke, it doesn’t have enough features yet.

Napsal : 06/04/2019 10:22 am
Chocki
(@chocki)
Prominent Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Polycarbonate sticking too wellbut issues with heating

I turned the filament sensor off and completed the print without any further issues, also dropped the heated bed temperature to 100 Deg which allowed the PC to stick but not weld to the buildtak surface, hot end ran at 295 which is the maximum the standard head will go to.
No enclosure so had to leave the print until it finished then open the window.

Using normal PRUSA settings 0.2mm layer heights and 0.4. to 0.45 layer widths in Slic3r PE with Rigid.Ink Polycarbonate and a buildtack surface, bed at 100 deg for it to stick OK at 115 it practically welds itself to the bed and I actually removed a dot of bed material!, so this is the range required, no fan!, speeds slow 20mm/s with the maximum infill and gap fill no more than 35mm/s I printed small parts so far which have come out good, layer bonding could do with being a little better, I may have to modify my printer to get an extra 5 degrees of heat out of the hot end.

Normal people believe that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Engineers believe that if it ain’t broke, it doesn’t have enough features yet.

Napsal : 08/04/2019 5:23 pm
Share: