RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
@dan-rogers
Absolutely. I do a lot of rounded nose cones. They do not make a huge difference.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
@ringarn67
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
@dan-rogers
Not an aeronautical engineer - but I think I've seen reports there are times and places sharp is better than dull - and vice-versa. Something about controlling the shock wave shape transitioning through sonic. Mind boggling stuff.
In printing, trying to balance a top is generally a bad idea. Just too much force as the nozzle drags filament around an ever increasing radius.
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
@dan-rogers
Try with the cone of interest. Maybe just the photo, but your example looks huge by comparison.
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
@tim-2
Rounded or sharp. A flight round is fine.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
@ringarn67
I set external perimeter speed to 5 mm/s - then in the better print manually changed speed to 2.5 the last 4 mm.
You could try setting external perimeter to 2.5mm and print the entire part slowly.
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
Not going to work with the cone of interest. Wasn't modeled for vase mode 😉
You can scale this to just about any size. I disagree that the nozzle will drag the print - if you have that problem, you got different problems.
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
@dan-rogers
😎 So scale it down and show us how to print a 1cm diameter nozzle using this technique.
Oh, I forgot, be sure the cone has a solid base for ejection purposes... lol.
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
Most of the cones that I print I print without vasemode.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
Thank you for all the help. What finally worked for me is below. Temperature flow rate changes were not needed . When I step down below 450 I started to get small rings at the start of the change in speed, could just be my machine or filament.
M106 S255 ;Fan Speed 50%->100%
G1 F600 ;Feedrate F900->F600 Starting at 5 mm from the top and changing all above.
G1 F600 ;Feedrate F900->F450 Starting at 3 mm from the top and changing all above.
Also cut the top ~0.3mm off the top of the model. And then post process with an X-Acto knife one or two quick cuts .
Stepping it down in small incremental steps probably would’ve giving me better results but I don’t have the patience . As they say at some point you have to stop engineering and start production. Once again thanks and I’m calling this one answered .
Tim your results tended to be a bit better than mine, I’m curious what printer you have I have an MK3 I did not upgrade to an MK3S… as I didn’t think it was worth the effort, I may need to reconsider that. Also I’m using HATCH Box which I tended to believe it’s halfway decent filament it is two years old but maybe that contributes to it too not sure.
Below is a picture for those that are curious. As I said there was more of the print below. Also for those that’s saw my earlier question on vase mode where I added more bottom layers you can see that it plugs into the base and vase mode wasn’t strong enough so I added 5 mm of bottom layers and it worked out rather nicely.
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
@tinkerwest
Mk3 - I printed slower than you did, and our Mk3's are better than Mk3s's, so other folk can't print this well.
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
Nice missiles!
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
@tim-2
So you saying an Mk3 is better than an MK3S?
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
@dan-rogers
lol - yeah - I could ask the same about sensitivity to humor, too.
@cwbullet
The Mk3 is a tried and true printer - works well and better than the S (I think Prusa was using higher quality components when they were shipping the Mk3); Prusa is still trying to make the Mk3S into a working printer. At least they finally got the PINDA bracket to stop melting. The + has a couple redeeming characteristics, the SPINDA is a win, and I think the plastic is new and an even better fix to the PINDA bracket melting. And the S+ now has a better aligned filament path (more like the Mk3) to let Mk3S owners print TPU again. They are still working on the filament sensor hack and they've also changed the flag on the sensor - but it is still bouncing and sending false filament outs mid print. Though, tbh, it is just as likely the interrupt handling bug that I've pointed out three years ago causing the issue that affects all Mk3 printers.
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
@tim-2
Meh. Not worried. I caught a fish on one of my lures today, so no nosecone "jokes" are gonna get to me.
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
@dan-rogers
Gratz - do you smoke them for later or do you fry them up daily?
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
@tim-2
Let it go.
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
@dan-rogers
lmao - it was a serious question. sorry.
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
I have been messing around with the settings. A little, keeping it close to standard settings as possible
This is the OP´s original file, with the tip cut off 0,3mm
In filament settings I found this "Slow down if layer print time is below", changed 15 to 5, and "Min print speed", changed 15 to 1.
That way, as I understand it, the slicer take care of the speed settings. Please correct me if I am wrong.
Maybe I should have bumped up the "Fan speed"?
The height is 23.7
Prusa i3 MK3S+ FW 3.11.0 (kit dec -20), PrusaSlicer 2.6.1+win64, Fusion 360, Windows 10
RE: Need help printing a Nosecone in Vase Mode
@tim-2
Hi Tim - sorry my answer could have been interpreted two ways. It was a real answer - I let the fish go.