RE:
It's not compatible with the Prusa, but if you want to see something REALLY fancy, do a google (or DDG) search for 'ultimaker material station', which is an optional add-on (and base/stand) for my 'other' printer, and often sold as a bundle.
The printer I got does not have it, and the street price for a new Material Station is roughly twice what I paid for the printer ('gently used') 😉 so unless I find one for sale for a song and a dance I won't be pursuing one.
It not only maintains a humidity-controlled environment for the filament, it can auto-select and pre-feed one of the filaments as well as switch to a new full spool when one runs out, kind of a MMU function, except I don't think it will do color changes mid-print.
One of my former employers uses one of these and they say it's very effective in letting students and researchers concentrate on the models they are doing and not on the operation and troubleshooting of the printer.
RE:
My setup looks like this and it prints Nylon and carbonfiber-nylon extremely well:
(Drybox is Sunlu S1 with installed fan, hygrometer (front) and desiccant can (middle of spool)).
RE: How to I make my MK3S compatible with Nylon?
PS: hardly any modifications to stock Prusa MK3S+, except fan shroud printed from nylon, since PETG or ASA fan shrouds will melt running at 295°C print temperature.
RE: How to I make my MK3S compatible with Nylon?
This is my problem. When I select one of the pa filaments from the list in the slicer (each of which has an asterisk next to it), I click finish and it looks like it is updating, but it drops back into the "platter" view and the filament I selected doesn't show up as an option.
Food dehydrator.
Select any pa filament in slicer and change temperature, speed etc. according to the filament manufacturer.
RE: How to I make my MK3S compatible with Nylon?
I'm looking at doing something like this, but I think I have another issue. I have an MMU2 upgrade, and the firmware upgrade that comes along with it. If I remove the PTFE tube coming from the MMU2, so that I can temporarily add a dedicated tube to a dry box when working with nylon, I'm wondering how the firmware will react. After all, it will think I'm printing with the MMU and try to feed filament towards the extruder via the "chimney" sensor. Have to give this some more thought.
My setup looks like this and it prints Nylon and carbonfiber-nylon extremely well:
(Drybox is Sunlu S1 with installed fan, hygrometer (front) and desiccant can (middle of spool)).
RE: How to I make my MK3S compatible with Nylon?
I use these, they work very well and have had long lives.
At the time of writing they are about $189 USD
Don't waste your money on those sunlu style ones they won't do the job.
The Filament Whisperer
RE: How to I make my MK3S compatible with Nylon?
Food dehydrator.
Select any pa filament in slicer and change temperature, speed etc. according to the filament manufacturer.
This is the view I get when trying to select one of the pa filaments. When I click finish, this window goes away and I can see that it is updating the system, but the pa items I have selected do not show up as a filament that I can select. So, I can't just pull in a pa filament and then modify its settings for what I need.
RE: How to I make my MK3S compatible with Nylon?
I concur with Swiss_Cheese.
I got an eSun drier ( Sunlu with another brand) first and then, noticing the limitations of this device, I purchased a Printdry. Different machines; not on the same league. Just look at the electrical specs ( 50w the Sunlu, 250w the Printdry),
If you have a spool of PETg with a lot of humidity, trying to dry it with a Sunlu will be a hard, if not impossible task. On the other part, if you have previously dried that spool, with a more powerful and accurate machine ( Printdry, food dehydrator ) leaving it inside the Sunlu while you print, it will keep the filament enough dry for a few hours until the print is finished. Ditto for PLA. Don’t bother using the Sunlu for trying to dry wet nylon, TPU or PC.
Right now I use the Printdry for drying filament, but I don’t print while doing so. Practically I don’t use the Sunlu anymore. Maybe if I printed nylon (which I don’t at present ) I’d use it for keeping the spool reasonably dry while the printing job is being done.
RE: How to I make my MK3S compatible with Nylon?
The Sunlu work quite well if you install a fan. That makes a huge difference.
50w vs 250w only matters during heating up, but for keeping the temperature it will only use a fraction of that.
for drying I use a food dehydrator, the Sunlu box is just for printing.
RE: How to I make my MK3S compatible with Nylon?
The Sunlu work quite well if you install a fan. That makes a huge difference.
50w vs 250w only matters during heating up, but for keeping the temperature it will only use a fraction of that.
for drying I use a food dehydrator, the Sunlu box is just for printing.
I think that is an important point. Many of the "filament driers" one better for keeping them dry and not drying. I store my filaments in a dry box. I print from a 'drier' that keeps them dry.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: How to I make my MK3S compatible with Nylon?
I saw where a lot of people are modifying their Sunlu by installing a fan. The newer version, Sunlu S1 plus, actually comes with a fan installed.
The Sunlu work quite well if you install a fan. That makes a huge difference.
50w vs 250w only matters during heating up, but for keeping the temperature it will only use a fraction of that.
for drying I use a food dehydrator, the Sunlu box is just for printing.
RE: How to I make my MK3S compatible with Nylon?
My Esun came with a fan and a narrow space in front to put a sachet of silica gel, if you want to improve the drying efficiency. Problem is that the fan has no protective grid, so the blades kept catching the sachets and ripping them apart, with the silica pearls jumping everwhere. Funny, but annoying. I had to print a removable grid to put in front of the fan to protect the bag of silica gel. Small details like this could have been solved by the manufacturer, with a little thinking and practically no expense.
RE: How to I make my MK3S compatible with Nylon?
I like what this guy did to get the moisture out. After all, that is the goal, to get the water out!
My Esun came with a fan and a narrow space in front to put a sachet of silica gel, if you want to improve the drying efficiency. Problem is that the fan has no protective grid, so the blades kept catching the sachets and ripping them apart, with the silica pearls jumping everwhere. Funny, but annoying. I had to print a removable grid to put in front of the fan to protect the bag of silica gel. Small details like this could have been solved by the manufacturer, with a little thinking and practically no expense.
RE:
I'm able to print Nylon and CF-Nylon successfully. My biggest problem when I first started with Nylon was keeping it stuck to the bed (it would start to peal up at the corners, so in addition to what everyone else has said here that helps for me is
- Glue stick on satin sheet
- that I have an enclosure on my i3 Mk3s+ and it is heated and keep it at approx. 90F while printing.
- I also have taken a tip from a YouTuber that my bed temp is set to 90C for the first 3 layers and then bring it down to 35C for the rest of the print.
- Use a brim that is at least 10mm wide.
- Dry filament (I just use my kitchen oven at 175F for 6 hrs)
After doing these above I'm able to get good Nylon Prints.
RE: How to I make my MK3S compatible with Nylon?
Can you please share you PA6-CF settings with me, as I cant for the life of me figure out what to change or set for my MK4 as there is no default profile.