First print with PETG failed MK3S+, MK4 any better?
Have two questions. First, I've been printing with PLA on my MK3S+ with no issues. I have 3 spools of prusa PETG that i decided to try some prints. I resliced with Prusa Slicer for PETG. Had an unopened bag, with desiccant that I used, on textured platter, and I got some globs and stringing in the print, which I cancelled. I didn't recalibrate the z axis - thinking it wasn't necessary due to all of the successful PLA prints. Was that a mistake? I've put the spool in my filament dryer to see if that helps.
Second, I have a credit to use ($200 from Prusa as my MK3S+ arrived the day the MK4 was announced). I've been thinking of using it towards the MK4 build kit. I don't want to do that and end up with similar problems. Switching filament types on an MK4 - any better than the MK3S+?
RE: First print with PETG failed MK3S+, MK4 any better?
Try cutting the extruder temperature back a bit, and increase the retraction. That might help.
I print with PETG all the time (I want functional parts), and have just accepted some blobs and stringing. I am looking for a good PETG. I went with the Matterhackers MHBuild PETG, but the filament wasn't wound properly and kept jamming.
Some PETG prints better than others. I found that the stuff from Microcenter is terrible on the I3.
Senior Life member of IEEE.
RE: First print with PETG failed MK3S+, MK4 any better?
Try cutting the extruder temperature back a bit, and increase the retraction. That might help.
I print with PETG all the time (I want functional parts), and have just accepted some blobs and stringing. I am looking for a good PETG. I went with the Matterhackers MHBuild PETG, but the filament wasn't wound properly and kept jamming.
Some PETG prints better than others. I found that the stuff from Microcenter is terrible on the I3.
Senior Life member of IEEE.
RE: First print with PETG failed MK3S+, MK4 any better?
Isn't Prusa petg considered to be a good petg?
RE: First print with PETG failed MK3S+, MK4 any better?
In doing further research it seems I should recalibrate the z axis since i moved from a smooth to a textured sheet. Apparently the textured sheet is thinner. Going to try that.
RE: First print with PETG failed MK3S+, MK4 any better?
In doing further research it seems I should recalibrate the z axis since i moved from a smooth to a textured sheet. Apparently the textured sheet is thinner. Going to try that.
That would certainly do it. There can be a huge difference between sheet types. It can even be significant between different sheets of the same type.
You can save/recall sheet profiles from the LCD panel.
RE: First print with PETG failed MK3S+, MK4 any better?
1) Don't know if Prusa PETG is good, but the cost to ship the stuff to the US is very high. I'm looking for a cheaper way.
2) I ALWAYS do a First Layer Calibrate when changing filaments or build plates. I have found that different filament types (PETG vs PC) require different First Layer settings. The I4 is supposed to eliminate this, so I ordered one. Don't know if it actually works, though. If you are switching between the smooth plate and the textured one, I would DEFINETLY do a First Layer Calibration. If you don't, the first layer may not stick.
Senior Life member of IEEE.
RE: First print with PETG failed MK3S+, MK4 any better?
Great tip! Wasn't aware they could be saved.
In doing further research it seems I should recalibrate the z axis since i moved from a smooth to a textured sheet. Apparently the textured sheet is thinner. Going to try that.
That would certainly do it. There can be a huge difference between sheet types. It can even be significant between different sheets of the same type.
You can save/recall sheet profiles from the LCD panel.
RE: First print with PETG failed MK3S+, MK4 any better?
Thanks to you and Jim for confirming a z axis calibration is needed. Soon as this print finishes I will do that.
1) Don't know if Prusa PETG is good, but the cost to ship the stuff to the US is very high. I'm looking for a cheaper way.
2) I ALWAYS do a First Layer Calibrate when changing filaments or build plates. I have found that different filament types (PETG vs PC) require different First Layer settings. The I4 is supposed to eliminate this, so I ordered one. Don't know if it actually works, though. If you are switching between the smooth plate and the textured one, I would DEFINETLY do a First Layer Calibration. If you don't, the first layer may not stick.
RE: First print with PETG failed MK3S+, MK4 any better?
Been trying to calibrate the z axis. Not going well. The calibrate prints a couple zig zag lines then goes to a small square. Can't see a thing while it's printing the square til it's done. Then it's a wait a few minutes to repeat the process. I've definitely got stringing. Pressing and holding the control know allow changing of the z axis in whole numbers. Going into the z axis calibration it adjusts in decimals. Confusing. I'll be spending some hours in these forums to figure that out.At this point is is more of a pain than my Creater Pro.
RE: First print with PETG failed MK3S+, MK4 any better?
Dont use the built in process. Just print a 75mm square 1 layer high and use the live z (the fine values one) as its printing to dial it in. Basically follow the instructions in this really old and massively long thread https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/life-adjust-z-my-way/
Or the just check here https://www.printables.com/model/105404-calibration-strip-for-simple-live-zfirst-layer-cal for a better model and instructions. Its really easy to do and once you have done it a couple of times it takes minutes to dial things in.
RE: First print with PETG failed MK3S+, MK4 any better?
Thanks - for the help. I got so frustrated I had to walk away. I'll give your suggestion a go tomorrow - should calm down by then!
Dont use the built in process. Just print a 75mm square 1 layer high and use the live z (the fine values one) as its printing to dial it in. Basically follow the instructions in this really old and massively long thread https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/life-adjust-z-my-way/
Or the just check here https://www.printables.com/model/105404-calibration-strip-for-simple-live-zfirst-layer-cal for a better model and instructions. Its really easy to do and once you have done it a couple of times it takes minutes to dial things in.
RE: First print with PETG failed MK3S+, MK4 any better?
I often use the extrusion multiplier in the filament settings as a fine tune tool for for the first layer and stringing. I use a lot of Pet-G and various brands and prices and they have 1 thing in common. They are all different. Even a different color from the same brand need others temperatures or flows.
RE: First print with PETG failed MK3S+, MK4 any better?
Using the information you provided I was able to calibrate the z axis. Took 3 prints to get it dialed in. I printed the Prusa scraper next. I had to make some minor tweaks to the z axis as I watched the 1st layer print. Other than that perfect! Thanks for the help!
Dont use the built in process. Just print a 75mm square 1 layer high and use the live z (the fine values one) as its printing to dial it in. Basically follow the instructions in this really old and massively long thread https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/life-adjust-z-my-way/
Or the just check here https://www.printables.com/model/105404-calibration-strip-for-simple-live-zfirst-layer-cal for a better model and instructions. Its really easy to do and once you have done it a couple of times it takes minutes to dial things in.
RE: First print with PETG failed MK3S+, MK4 any better?
I often use the extrusion multiplier in the filament settings as a fine tune tool for for the first layer and stringing. I use a lot of Pet-G and various brands and prices and they have 1 thing in common. They are all different. Even a different color from the same brand need others temperatures or flows.
I like your comment - the only thing they have in common is they are all different. Well said!