Best way to print with Taulman Bridge on i3 mk3??
I'm trying to print with the latest black 1.75mm Taulman Bridge that comes on bigger 200mm roles.
I have built a dry box that keeps humidity at 10% and print at 260° C which has great layer adhesion and no stinging or oozing so the prints are great BUT the prints always lift / warp at the corners on the pei sheet!!!??
I tried the pva glue stick which didn't work.
I noticed the prusa preset for taulman bridge has the print bed at 90° C and taulman recommends 45°C so I tried 45° and got less warping but all corners still lift some.
I've just tried some wolfbite nitro which is designed for nylon but on glass not pei. The wolfbite didn't take too well to the pei and I dried it by heading the bed. the first print lifted at the corners so no good. I then cleaned the pei with acetone (as I thought the isopropyl may inhibit the wolfbite) and applied wolfbite again - it looked to go on better - then let it dry at room temperature. I'm now printing with bed at 45°, nozzle at 260° using a raft 4 layers high - this appears to be printing ok!?! I'm not sure how well the raft will remove due to the strong nylon bond but I'll find out in the morning.
So the question is does anyone know the best way ro print taulman bridge on the prusa i3 mk3??
Swap to glass bed and use wolfbite nitro?
Use gekotek?
Any ideas welcome!!
Cheers
Peter
Re: Best way to print with Taulman Bridge on i3 mk3??
From the Taulman site: For 3D Printers that use PEI/Ultem bed coating.
Printing Nylon or Nylon Alloys on a printer with a PEI bed material can be difficult to get the part to adhere. While PEI works great for PLA and co-polyesters, it does not work as well for Nylons or Nylon Alloys. Using a replaceable glass surface as noted makes it easy to go back and forth from a other materials to a Nylon based material.
Also, if you haven't already, try the advanced search function for this forum (or google); Taulman Bridge Nylon has been discussed quite a bit.
That's "MISTER Old Fart" to you!
Re: Best way to print with Taulman Bridge on i3 mk3??
Thankyou for your reply
Yes I'd read the Taulman advice to use a replaceable glass bed - I google searched for prusa i3 mk3 with glass print bed and could only find some info on mk2 printer - I'm hoping someone has done a glass bed on mk3 and can advise if it works and how to adjust the printer properly to allow for the thickness of the glass so the print head doesn't crash.
The test print I did last night using a x 4 layer raft on wolfbite nitro (on pei sheet) worked pretty well. The raft stayed flat and removed pretty easily from the print - the print still has a small bit of warping but this is the best so far.
Still hoping to hear from someone who knows how to get perfect adhesion on prusa i3 mk3
Re: Best way to print with Taulman Bridge on i3 mk3??
While i havent tried this myself, yet, a buddy suggested blue painters tape and glue stick as well to get it to stick.
Re: Best way to print with Taulman Bridge on i3 mk3??
Thanks for the suggestion
I have some blue tape but assumed this would still likely lift at corners - anyone had success with blue tape and glue stick?
Re: Best way to print with Taulman Bridge on i3 mk3??
I don't want to jinx it but I'm doing a big 17 hour print and so far so good!
I think I'm on the right track 🙂
Taulman Bridge
PEI sheet - clean it
Coat with wolfbite nitro - entire sheet for this print
Let wolfbite dry naturally - ie. NOT drying on heated bed
Printing 260° nozzle
45° bed
Use raft - currently x 4 layers - less may work
Print is going perfectly.
I'll let you know if it finishes ok
Re: Best way to print with Taulman Bridge on i3 mk3??
The print finished pretty good so I think this will work for me.
If anyone has a better process it would be great to hear from you
Re: Best way to print with Taulman Bridge on i3 mk3??
I'm still looking to hear from anyone who is successfully printing taulman bridge on the prusa i3 mk3!
There has got to be someone!
I just built the prusa designed enclosure for the i3 thinking this may help keep the temperature up to reduce warping as the filament cools however there was next to no increase in temperature within the enclosure!?! And the print warped and lifted!! aaarrrggg!!
Temp within enclosure about 27 degrees Celsius - humidity around 50%, print settings prusa taulman bridge, wolfbite nitro for bed adhesion on PEI sheey.......
Do I have to fully seal the enclosure as there are gaps around the edges of all the plexi glass??
Do I have to dehumidify the enclosure? If so to what %?
Is there a better adhesive?
I think the prusa default print settings for taulman bridge are likely completely wrong - anyone have settings that work??
Pretty frustrated - someone must know how to print this stuff!?!?!?
Re: Best way to print with Taulman Bridge on i3 mk3??
I'd love to help, but my first print was a window slider (about 1 mm^2) and the next was a bicycle part (15x7 mm) so warping just hasn't been an issue yet.
I maintain an informal list of San Diego, CA 3D printing enthusiasts. PM me for details. If you include a contact email and I can add you to the informal mailing list.
Re: Best way to print with Taulman Bridge on i3 mk3??
I'm still looking to hear from anyone who is successfully printing taulman bridge on the prusa i3 mk3!
There has got to be someone!
I just built the prusa designed enclosure for the i3 thinking this may help keep the temperature up to reduce warping as the filament cools however there was next to no increase in temperature within the enclosure!?! And the print warped and lifted!! aaarrrggg!!
Temp within enclosure about 27 degrees Celsius - humidity around 50%, print settings prusa taulman bridge, wolfbite nitro for bed adhesion on PEI sheey.......
Do I have to fully seal the enclosure as there are gaps around the edges of all the plexi glass??
Do I have to dehumidify the enclosure? If so to what %?
Is there a better adhesive?
I think the prusa default print settings for taulman bridge are likely completely wrong - anyone have settings that work??
Pretty frustrated - someone must know how to print this stuff!?!?!?
I built the Lack enclosure. I wanted to maximise the temperature increase so I sealed all the gaps with STORMGUARD 05SR630006MCL Silicone SELF-ADHESHIVE HIGH PROFORMANCE Draught EXCLUDER Seal 6M Transparent https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MZFH9A2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OI18Bb9ENPHTR
With this, I was getting temperatures of about 37-40°C when the bed Temperature was ~75°C.
I then placed additional 10mm foam insulation panels over the acrylic Windows, at which point I was seeing 55-60°C when printing ABS with a bed Temperature of 110°C. Unfortunately this resulted in the premature termination of my print with a "TMC Driver Overtemp" message.
Prusa Support said the cause was an overheating Einsy board. It seems that ~55°C is the maximum ambient temperature that an unmodified Einsy can reliably handle without overheating.