20 hours wasted
I used to print objects within 3 hours and MK3 worked fine until....
This was supposed to be a basket, was about 80% finished. But damn!
The nozzle clogged and started to print in mid air after 20 hours of printing.
Config: MK3, Firmware 3.2, latest version of Prusa Control.
I want to try it again, any help? Should I use S3D instead?
Re: 20 hours wasted
That kind if print can be a challenge with some filaments- I presume PLA? What you have there is just like printing a bunch of small parts. You have lots of retractions, and relatively slow speeds due to the small runs with the nozzle. You need "as cool as you can get" ambient temperatures, you need to print it relatively fast, and make sure your retractions are not more than .5mm. I see some stringing, so upping the hot end temperature may not be an option, but another 5 degrees might help.
Some PLA's will do it, some just won't. It's one of those "it depends" type of things.
Re: 20 hours wasted
That kind if print can be a challenge with some filaments- I presume PLA? What you have there is just like printing a bunch of small parts. You have lots of retractions, and relatively slow speeds due to the small runs with the nozzle. You need "as cool as you can get" ambient temperatures, you need to print it relatively fast, and make sure your retractions are not more than .5mm. I see some stringing, so upping the hot end temperature may not be an option, but another 5 degrees might help.
Some PLA's will do it, some just won't. It's one of those "it depends" type of things.
Thank you!
One more question, what material/filament do you recommend for this kind of print ?
Re: 20 hours wasted
That kind if print can be a challenge with some filaments- I presume PLA? What you have there is just like printing a bunch of small parts. You have lots of retractions, and relatively slow speeds due to the small runs with the nozzle. You need "as cool as you can get" ambient temperatures, you need to print it relatively fast, and make sure your retractions are not more than .5mm. I see some stringing, so upping the hot end temperature may not be an option, but another 5 degrees might help.
Some PLA's will do it, some just won't. It's one of those "it depends" type of things.
Thank you!
One more question, what material/filament do you recommend for this kind of print ?
You need to figure out why you're jamming with basic PLA before doing anything else...
I don't see how you'll avoid stringing with .5, but every machine is different. Run some retraction tests and find what works best for you. 5 degrees one way or another isn't going to kill your print.
Re: 20 hours wasted
That's definitely a torture test. I'm glad to see you made it pretty far in the print.
Reid provided already pretty good hints. I think if it's not too hot in your room, just point a big room vent with slow air flow on the printer. If you made it already to 80% without it, you might get lucky and succeed with cooler ambient air without changing the print settings.
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Re: 20 hours wasted
That's definitely a torture test. I'm glad to see you made it pretty far in the print.
Reid provided already pretty good hints. I think if it's not too hot in your room, just point a big room vent with slow air flow on the printer. If you made it already to 80% without it, you might get lucky and succeed with cooler ambient air without changing the print settings.
Agree, it was like printing an Effiel tower.
Yes, the print had reached 80%, what a shame....
Thank you for your advice about the ambient temperature.
How about the hot end temperature? If I am going to adjust the hot end temp., do you suggest a hotter or cooler setting?
Re: 20 hours wasted
This may seem counter intuitive, but bear with me. Sometimes, actually cooler on the nozzle is better, especially if you can't really print very fast. Slower speeds introduces more chance for the PLA to start to pre-heat and get a bit soft.
I would get your retractions down to .5mm or .4mm, and run 5 degrees cooler on the nozzle. Stick around for the first 30-40 minutes of the print to make sure you don't start getting extruder clicking. If you here just a couple here and there, let it be- but if it starts obviously missing extrusion, those 5 degrees are probably too much and you need to go the other way. This will also help some with your 45 degree overhangs.
Another thing.. if you have relatively good bed adhesion, you could try lowering the bed temp at least 10 degrees (or even turn it off). Anything you can do to remove heat will help in this scenario.