Which order (if any) to tighten new E3D V6 hot end?
Hi
The cables to my hot end became frayed as a cable tie that kept them off the plate was missing, so I brought a whole new E3D V6 hot end off Amazon as I needed it quickly. In hindsight I could have simply replaced the cables but hey ho.
What arrived from Amazon was a V6 hotend that looked very similar to mine but completely in bits, and no instructions. I like a puzzle though so after a few YouTube videos I got it assembled correctly. I know understand why Prusa states the nozzle should be a little off the hot block 🙂 so I leant quite a few new things.
What I didn't learn was what should be properly tightened before the E3D hotend is put back in the Prusa. Some instructions state do it before, some after, some say DO NOT TORQUE, Prusa says 2.5Nm torque. No consistency at all.
What I have done so far is hand assemble everything, I've screwed the nozzle in all the way and unscrewed it circa half a turn. I've then screwed the little heat break in finger tight against the nozzle. I've put thermal paste on the heat break and finger tightened the heatsink over the heat break. My intention was to then heat the hot end to 280C and use a dedciated 2.5Nm torque wrench, tighten up the nozzle.
I've read warnings of overtightening the heatsink and can't see any way to attach a spanner so finger tight it is. My thinking is the heat break will be tightened against the nozzle so thats should be OK as well.
I would welcome any thoughts from the community as to have I done the right thing.
Best wishes
Rob
You have it basically right, perhaps unscrew the nozzle another half turn but the most important is the lock to the face of the two screw threads.
You can't replace the cables btw without specialist kit - the joints get too hot for solder. You might instead replace just the heater element together with its cables...
Cheerio,
RE: Which order (if any) to tighten new E3D V6 hot end?
You got it right. Hand screw the nozzle in. Heat to 280. Tighten but not overdo it. I use a 3d printed 3 Nm torque wrench.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: Which order (if any) to tighten new E3D V6 hot end?
Thanks for the response.
Why would you do another half turn again please? is there a good reason that I missed.
You are correct about the cables. I wouldn't replace just the cables and meant to say the heater element and cables 🙂
You have it basically right, perhaps unscrew the nozzle another half turn but the most important is the lock to the face of the two screw threads.
You can't replace the cables btw without specialist kit - the joints get too hot for solder. You might instead replace just the heater element together with its cables...
Cheerio,
RE: Which order (if any) to tighten new E3D V6 hot end?
Thanks for the reply. I did print a 3NM torque wrench and it broke first use, so I brought a 1.8NM and a 2.5Nm wrench. I use the 2.5Nm one now.
I think I'll pull the whole assembly out of the extruder, and do the heat tightening there. It's a pain in the butt when its assembled.
Wish me luck 🙂
Thanks all and have a great Xmas, appreciate all the help
Rob
You got it right. Hand screw the nozzle in. Heat to 280. Tighten but not overdo it. I use a 3d printed 3 Nm torque wrench.
RE: Which order (if any) to tighten new E3D V6 hot end?
I've been using these https://www.printables.com/model/24539-torque-wrench-handles-from-10nm-up-to-30nm for years. I swap nozzle sizes all the time on multiple printers, and the first one I printed is still going strong.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
Why would you do another half turn again please? is there a good reason that I missed.
The gap between heatblock and nozzle is the worst place for buildup and carbonisation of residue. The accumulation can bake solid and when you eventually change your nozzle you have to clean it away before inserting the new one. A half turn, whilst enough, means the cleaning has to be scrupulous or the nozzle *might* jam before fully home.
A little extra space makes this less critical.
Cheerio,
RE: Which order (if any) to tighten new E3D V6 hot end?
@diem,
That makes good sense. I knew there had to be a sensible reason 🙂
I have to say, coming to these forums is great as it seems completely free (at least to me) of people with agendas to push and stupid comments. I ask a question and I get good solid answers that make sense, I sometimes need two questions to understand the answer, but thats my problem 🙂
Thanks
Rob
RE: Which order (if any) to tighten new E3D V6 hot end?
Just went through same thing. I think the important part is just to make sure the heat sink goes in first so the nozzle doesn't go all the way in. The whole ordeal makes a hotend upgrade make more sense to me.
RE: Which order (if any) to tighten new E3D V6 hot end?
Actually assembling everything like this is a great way to learn. Also having other people to answer my dumb questions helps so much. I'd rrad the Prusa docs but never understood the need for the gap between the nozzle and the block. Now I do.
The only two questions I now have are:
1. Do people zero the z lift parameter and start from zero each time. I'm scared that I'll gouge my satin PEI sheet so I also go back to first principles. I use a large square rather than the built in z first layer test.
2. The top of the heartbreak has a small plastic clip to hold the PTFE tube in. The action of putting the circlip on pulls the plastic clip backwards. How do people stop the PTFE tube moving ? I simply push down hard on the tube whilst pushing the circlip in but wondered if there was a better approach.
Thanks
Rob
1. Do people zero the z lift parameter and start from zero each time. I'm scared that I'll gouge my satin PEI sheet so I also go back to first principles. I use a large square rather than the built in z first layer test.
It's wise to be cautious and restart from zero when changing nozzles. I've done it so many times now that I'm annoyed if I don't get it right within one run of the built in calibration routine (0.4mm nozzles only) - but it took me most of an afternoon the first time I did it.
If you are recalibrating because the installed nozzle has worn down a bit then it's fine to continue from the stored value.
How do people stop the PTFE tube moving ?
Just finger pressure. Admittedly it feels a bit like learning advanced conjuring tricks. Just be patient and make sure it's firm.
Cheerio,
RE:
Do people zero the z lift parameter and start from zero each time.
Just to clarify terminology. There's a Z Lift parameter in Prusaslicer. This one you wouldn't have to touch. What you mean (I assume) is Live Z recalibration aka first layer calibration. Yes, any work on the extruder will probably necessitate a recalibration of Live Z. Even after a nozzle swap I run a quick test. I use this strip https://www.printables.com/model/105404 for that purpose, only takes a few minutes and you can check up to eight values per run.
i usually start with the previous value of live z in the middle of the strip and go low to high. Have never run nozzles into the sheet.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: Which order (if any) to tighten new E3D V6 hot end?
@diem,
Thanks for the helpful response. What I am going to do now, is put a series of feeler gauges underneath the nozzle just to see what the gap is. Then next time I do anything with a nozzle I'll set the height to be the same as that for a starting position. Stops me having to go back to zero each time.
I normally take two runs now to get the nozzle height right. I'm happy to keep learning though.
Glad I had the PTFE right. It feels wrong to push the circlip in which pulls the ptfe the wrong way,. Grrrrr!
Any, thanks for all the helpful advice, I wish you all a good Xmas and a great new year.
Rob