Well this sucks... LCD display gone bad  

RE: Well this sucks... LCD display gone bad

You seem to have all your bases covered regularly.....so I hate to ask, but did you try to reflash the firmware?  My first kit looked EXACTLY like that halfway thru my first full print and ended up creating my first blob.  I did a reflash and its been almost perfect since.

RE: Well this sucks... LCD display gone bad

Posted by: @nilok

[...] did you try to reflash the firmware?  My first kit looked EXACTLY like that halfway thru my first full print and ended up creating my first blob.  I did a reflash and its been almost perfect since.

I have not. The support menu still shows 3.9.0-RC1 loaded. I've done a Live-Z print and am getting ready for a test print now, so will keep that in mind.

One note: The new display seems to have a slower refresh time. Not really a problem, but I do have to pause when using my big knob to spin rapidly through settings.

RE: Well this sucks... LCD display gone bad

Posted by: @bobstro

Thanks for the links, guys. I have to admit I quickly ordered a full board from Zaribo before I realized they're in Germany. Given the situation in the world today, I ordered another from PrintedSolid (almost the same price with shipping) and it arrived today. I've installed it an am back in business. Thanks for all the great solutions. I'll have a spare now and when time allows, I'll work on transplanting the LCD panel from the board with the defective SD slot to the one with the bad panel. I hadn't thought about these as consumables, but I'm on my 3rd in 2 years now.

They shouldn't be consumables, but the way they're mounted and whatnot means they're basically just static magnets. It'd probably survive a lot longer if you (e.g.) printed the housing in ESD dissipative material and grounded it to the PSU. Or, stick some copper tape on it that you touch before touching the knob/sd card and ground said tape to the PSU housing with a wire. 

RE: Well this sucks... LCD display gone bad

Posted by: @vintagepc

They shouldn't be consumables, but the way they're mounted and whatnot means they're basically just static magnets. It'd probably survive a lot longer if you (e.g.) printed the housing in ESD dissipative material and grounded it to the PSU. Or, stick some copper tape on it that you touch before touching the knob/sd card and ground said tape to the PSU housing with a wire. 

Was thinking about the grounding issue after this happened. Static pops hadn't been too bad until this happened. Will touch the PSU for now I guess. The ground wire is a good idea.

RE: Well this sucks... LCD display gone bad

@bobstro

I think you made a good choice. My display has broken due to static electricity. For this reason, I always make sure that I electrically neutralize myself before I go to the printer. Since then I have no longer had any problems with defective components or uncontrolled printer resets.

RE: Well this sucks... LCD display gone bad

I made a "ritual" of touching the upper metal screw that holds the power supply to the frame before I do anything on the printer.  The power supply seems to be properly frame grounded, and its a safe discharge point.  However.....our house is sweats, socks, carpet, and dogs and becomes a static nightmare in the winter.  Thanks for the link to replacements!

RE: Well this sucks... LCD display gone bad

Posted by: @nilok

I made a "ritual" of touching the upper metal screw that holds the power supply to the frame before I do anything on the printer.  

For many months, I kept an angry Tiki god perched atop my Mk3. I'm thinking of dusting him off and putting a run of wire to the PSU screw. I'll figure out some way to mount him securely now that the printer lives in a cabinet. Making a gesture to the 3D printing gods before starting seems appropriate.

Edit: Just walked up to the printer, genuflected by bowing my head and touching the side of the power supply, only to notice the screen was dark. Thought I'd killed the new board. Was very pleased to realize I now have this feature (with the $25 PrintedSolid board):