Skipping Extruder
My printer is a MK3S+ with over 27 days of printing and Im very pleased with the kit. Suddenly my prints are ruined by a clicking sound in the extruder which causes large gaps on flat surfaces almost rhythmically. Here's what Ive troubleshot.
1. Cleaned nozzles and even with a new nozzle. My filament curls as it extrudes sometimes so thought it might be a clogged nozzle. Continues to curl sometimes even with new brass .8mm nozzle.
2. Bondtech gears cleaned and inspected for missing teeth.
3. Hot end "cleaned" but I couldnt really find a guide on how. Got damaged in the process so waiting on a replacement for more troubleshooting.
4. Filaments dried and feed tube inspected (runs easily). I mostly use Overture Professional PLA and have used 9000m of it. I haven't used any other type in quite a long time. Not the best but I like their colors.
5. Run out sensor parts move smoothly. Magnetic latch opens and closes without hang ups.
6. New PrusaSlicr profiles with updates and updated printer flash.
7. Resliced models that printed fine for months.
All I can think of is the hotend was having issues without error (being replaced anyway) or maybe my last collision crash damaged the extruder motor. Does this sound about right? Theres a certain model that has wild curls inside. I print large volume, simple shaped domes (basically a half ball) with very low infill and once in a while it detects a collisions. Can these damage motors?
Ive just learned about a filiment filter to help with future debris entering the hotend so maybe that will help with clogs I never seen to get much of.
(Side Topic)
Sometimes when I unload filament it has a "fork" in it like a fishhook and I have to open the extruder idler door to remove the filament. Is that a common issue? It only seems to happen once in a while.
Thanks for reading and hope you can help with ideas. My printer is currently a paperweight.
RE:
Some extra information.
Idler gear is correct tension (.5mm - 1mm out unloaded, flush loaded). Gears lined up correctly and still screwed tight
Same issue with 2 different filament spools and colors. Both pre and post dried.
Using an enclosure because kids have curious minds. Doesn't get warmer than 29c inside.
The problem starts on layer 2 so I was thinking flow rate (so maybe hot end issue). Dropped to 60% speed and its better but I cant operate my business at that speed.
(Side note)
I marked the extruder motor radius with a line (gear?) Like in the extruder clicking guide. The center circle and ring dont line up anymore. Is that normal? I dont know much about the motors.
RE: Skipping Extruder
What filament profile do you use for it? Probably you would need some temperature or z offset corrections.
There are somwhere a temperature tower gcode files - to see which nozzle temperatuer is the best for your filament.
The issue could be the low filament feedrate - lower extrusion with thinner filament lines, they do not join, or lower overlay.
Try to lower the live Z to make the first layer as more consistent layer.
even an old man can learn new things 🙂
Standard I3 mk3s, MMU2S, Prusa Enclosure, Fusion 360, PrusaSlicer, Windows 10
PRUSA MINI+ Prusalink + Prusa Connect
RE: Skipping Extruder
Can you hear some clickings in the extruder? It could be a clog there - try a higher temperature - what temeperature do you use recently?
For PLA you do not need the enclosure - this is mostly against warping fro ASA, PC and similar.
Contrary: the enclosure can cause, that the PLA starts melting earlier than necessary so the melted filament is up to PTFE tube and it does not have enough force to extrude sufficient amount of filament. Later it can end with clog. Print PLA with open enclosure door.
even an old man can learn new things 🙂
Standard I3 mk3s, MMU2S, Prusa Enclosure, Fusion 360, PrusaSlicer, Windows 10
PRUSA MINI+ Prusalink + Prusa Connect