Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
Dear makers,
I would need your expertise with a problem I faced since 2 days now.
I tried to improve my prints with PET-G and also Composite materials.
In order to, I felt in love with the new product of E3D which is called "Nozzle X". I liked the side "Rule them All" as an All-in-One solution.
So I installed it on my Prusa i3 MK3S in 0.4mm nozzle diameter version.
This is where the problems begin. I encountered some problems in exchanging my nozzle.
But anyway, It was finally a successfull handling, after disassemble almost all the printhead...
So I re-calibrate every parameters, like a brand new printer, because mechanical change has been done during the nozzle change.
- Also I adjust the Idler Tension (I noticed that for this MK3S, Prusa doesn't give so much information concerning the load on the single screw...)
Then I wanted to perform some tests with PLA, to see the results and do a comparison betweeen old standard nozzle (0.4) and new X one (0.4)
And ok, the printer is doing great job now, but I am a bit frustated because... it is doing a less good job than before.
I printed a Treefrog and also a 3Dbenchy boat, and pictures are really relevant. The pictures speak for themselves.
Please note that the most important problem seems to be the oozing... Otherwise, I think I have almost the same print quality.
To summarize, now my questions :
- Do you see anything I can do to improve this quality with this nozzle ?
- Can I check other parameters (mechanical or software) to get rid of this oozing effect (I assume retractation parametre in Slic3r)
- Did you notice anything more to help me concerning my print quality ?
Thanks in advance, please feel free if you have any further questions or advices.
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
It would help if you explained exactly what you're not happy with on the new prints. The only issue I can see is a bit of fine stringing. Since Nozzle-X is a hardened steel nozzle, it may require bumping temps. You can try adjusting retraction and z-hop to minimize stringing. A quick pass with a heat gun should remove most of what I see in your samples.
Nozzle-X is only going to provide substantial benefits if you are printing abrasive materials at very high temps that damage a normal hardened steel nozzle. The thermal characteristics are relatively poor. You can get coated nickel-plated copper or brass nozzles that will help with flament sticking to the nozzle, cost less and work as well.
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
I'd also like to know the procedure used to replace the nozzle, in your own words.
An improperly assembled hot end will result in these types of print issues. And a few skipped steps will ... well, lead to this.
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
Ok thanks for such information. Maybe I will go back to standard nozzle if it's not relevant, even I wanted to use some abrasive filament from time to time. This morning I tried new settings but my nozzle clogged after 5 minutes of printing. I tried several times but without success. Maybe I do not install my nozzle correctly.
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
For the replacement of the nozzle, I followed the YouTube video from Prusa but I did not have the right diameter with my drill so It was really tricky. I only used the tip of my drill so. And to much torque so, the heat block turned.
So I had to disassemble my print head and follow the tutorial from E3D for the entire heat body. Then I reassembled the print head.
I have no blob or anything else when the filament goes out from the nozzle so I assume it was a ok from this side.
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
[...] Maybe I will go back to standard nozzle if it's not relevant, even I wanted to use some abrasive filament from time to time.
Nozzle-X is a good nozzle and perfect for printing abrasives. The anti-stick coating is nice, but you do have to take care of it (no wire brush). A lot of people, myself included, read the "one nozzle to rule them all" and assumed it had the thermal properties of brass. Unfortunately, it doesn't. Just remember it's essentially a hardened steel nozzle in terms of the filament temperatures you need to use.
Please confirm that it is the fine stringing that is bothering you. The prints look pretty good otherwise and that's easy to clean up. You can probably tune out the fine strings with a combination of temperature, retraction and z-lift settings.
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
Use of a drill to change nozzles sounds extremely scary and very likely to damage something. I strongly recommend you purchase a 7mm hex tip screwdriver for the nozzle and an adjustable wrench for holding the heater block. There is a special tool you can make to help with setting the proper torque when installing, too:
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
Carry out a cold pull before changing nozzles, once you get the hang of it it's easy.
The way I do it, works perfect every time.
Since I mostly print with PETG.
Heat up the nozzle to at least 250 Deg and run some cleaning floss through, this will remove the PETG.
Unload the floss and put PLA in, purge this through until floss is clear.
Turn off heat (Press reset on LCD) and loosen filament feed gears (I have a skelestruder so no need to loosen anything since I just lift the flap against the spring tension with my finger, makes it so easy!)
Wait until the temperature drops to 80 degrees C then pull the filament out from the top.
This will pull all the filament out of the nozzle ready for nozzle removal.
Set nozzle temperature back to 280, when at temperature, turn the printer off (No danger of shorting anything out this way) and holding the heater block with an open ended spanner remove the nozzle, put it down somewhere heat proof (The lid of the e3d nozzle kit works well), refit new nozzle.
Turn printer back on, set temperature to 280 Deg and once at temperature, turn off printer again, hold heater bloack and tighten nozzle.
Adjust your live-z back towards 0.000 then carry out a live-z calibration run. Very important this, as I assumed, the nozzle would be back in the same place as the one I removed, but something must have moved, i now have permanent damage to one side of my Prusa textured sheet.
Normal people believe that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Engineers believe that if it ain’t broke, it doesn’t have enough features yet.
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
I couldn't so far manage to print a single print with the Nozzle-X. It always clogs, then I switch to brass and vois lá! working again.
I tried bumping the temps by up to 15°, but to no avail. Any ideas?
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
I couldn't so far manage to print a single print with the Nozzle-X. It always clogs, then I switch to brass and vois lá! working again.
I tried bumping the temps by up to 15°, but to no avail. Any ideas?
What filament and nozzle size are you using?
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
@bobstro
Tried PLA and PETG on 0.4mm Nozzle-X
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
Tried PLA and PETG on 0.4mm Nozzle-X
Hmm. I have 0.6 and 0.8mm Nozzle-X and other than upping temps 5C or so, have not had to modify my print settings. 0.4mm shouldn't be overly prone to clogs unless you're printing something exotic with chunky filling (e.g. wood).
Try raising Z to max and extruding some filament. It should flow evenly and coil evenly on the bed underneath. If it wiggles and comes out unevenly or off to one side, you might have a partial clog. Try some cold pulls if so.
That's all that comes to mind.
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
@bobstro
Alright thanks. Since I have had it since April I think I've tried almost everything. Sometimes it clogs really bad and I had to take apart the hot end only to have it clog again. Raising, lowering temps, lowering/increasing speed, nothing changed a thing, so I've just had it lying around all the time. Now I thought maybe I have some luck and it magically works (will print in brass PLA), but nope. It clogged.
I also sent a support request to e3d, but they didn't respond.
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
Any leaking filament? Inspect at the top of the heater block where the heatbreak screws into the heater block to verify. Is there a small <1mm gap between the nozzle hex and heater block?
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
@bobstro There is something between heaterblock and heatbreak, but it's very little and looks like glue. Also it's completely black, so it could be a year old. I know for a fact, that the way I inserted the PTFE tube is correct, there shouldn't be leaking coming from that at least.
I do have that gap between hex and heater block you are describing though. Is that normal?
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
Yes, you do want a small gap between the nozzle hex and the heater block to ensure the nozzle is tightened against the heatbreak and not the heater block.
There should not be any glue or ooze atop the block where the heatbreak screws in. Keep an eye on that. Any filament oozing is a problem there. PETG in particular will blacken over time on the block and eventually might fall into prints at inopportune times.
I suppose it's possible the nozzle could be damaged. Give it a good inspection.
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
Edit: Please confirm you've done cold pulls with the Nozzle-X.
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
I was looking to ways to improve my print with Nozzle X and arrive here ... They E3D dont recommand Cold plug or Needle work with the Nozzle X It void the waranty basically just so you guys know.
I add trouble seens I printed with glow in the dark PLA 2 clog before I realize I need to Bup 15 deg c to keep it from cloging. That was with original bras nozzle. Then after the second jam I change the nozzle for a amazon one, finish the Glow Pla print . But since that time the print quality seem to have decrease. I would seem More seam, have weird hairy print with last layer Here, each time i print that baby yoda I would have the unload fillament because I would not feed properly blob a the fillament tip.
So after a lot of read I order new Nozzle X, titanium heat break and some original e3d silicone sock. To go step by step I only change the Nozzle and add the silicone sock.
Now no more unloading eatch cool down, its alway good to go, no more cliking after retraction but i see seam bigger then before or overextrusion at the start point...
How would you proceed to adjust/test tease issue ? Not sure what to tackle first.
-Fisrt layer is good !
-If I raise the extruder up and let it flow its nice and smooth at 215 deg c
Belt tension x: 278 y:286
Thanks i advance
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
I was looking to ways to improve my print with Nozzle X and arrive here ... They E3D dont recommand Cold plug or Needle work with the Nozzle X It void the waranty basically just so you guys know.
I've seen their cautions against needles and wire brushes to avoid damaging the coating (which is not covered by warranty in any case). Never saw anything about cold pulls. Do you have a link to that info?
[...] Now no more unloading eatch cool down, its alway good to go, no more cliking after retraction but i see seam bigger then before or overextrusion at the start point...
Have you tried calibrating your filament multiplier for that filament? That can help with seams and overextrusion issues.
You should also re-run PID tuning since Nozzle-X has a different composition than the brass one it replaced.
RE: Prusa i3 MK3S - New Nozzle X and print quality
https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Wiki/Nozzle_X_warranty sorry forgot to add it...
Thank for the tip i will try that tomorrow and report👍