Re: Power Supply failure
How about running those numbers for people using 110v?
Re: Power Supply failure
I would need to know how many orders went out to the US to figure that out. I'm speculating here but let's assume that half of Prusa's total orders were shipped to the US. That would mean if all 50 defective PSUs were on 110v and there were 3900 US orders that would yield a 1.28% defective rate.
How about running those numbers for people using 110v?
Re: Power Supply failure
Really? a handful? What is a handful exactly? 2? 4? 50? What is an acceptable percentage of critical thermal failures for a product?
If there were 50 failed PSUs for 7799 orders shipped that comes out to 0.6% overall failure rate. That's pretty good if you ask me. There's always going to be defectives with any manufacturered item. A little more than half of a single percent failure is pretty good.
If it didn't result in smoke and flames, then perhaps I would agree... we're not talking about something that simply stops working.
Re: Power Supply failure
And I don't think we should assume that of all those over 7000 orders have users registered here to report problems. I would venture to say that those we have seen reported here is likely a lot fewer than the number that have actually failed.
Re: Power Supply failure
And I don't think we should assume that of all those over 7000 orders have users registered here to report problems. I would venture to say that those we have seen reported here is likely a lot fewer than the number that have actually failed.
I agree. This doesn't include people who use the facebook group and not the forum or people that use neither. There are still a lot of those kind of people out there who just don't use social media.
Re: Power Supply failure
i find it kinda sad that i had to spend an extra $50 to buy a better power supply after spending so much on the printer but oh well. I ended up ordering the Mean Well NES-350-24 and i will be printing the mount that Paul posted. My question is the wiring is exactly the same right? i mean nothing is different other than adding length to the wires correct? I currently have a cheap printer that i converted over to run with an atx power supply so i have no issues wiring things :p
Re: Power Supply failure
i find it kinda sad that i had to spend an extra $50 to buy a better power supply after spending so much on the printer but oh well. I ended up ordering the Mean Well NES-350-24 and i will be printing the mount that Paul posted. My question is the wiring is exactly the same right? i mean nothing is different other than adding length to the wires correct? I currently have a cheap printer that i converted over to run with an atx power supply so i have no issues wiring things :p
Wiring is exactly the same, you'll just need to make wires a few inches longer.
Re: Power Supply failure
i find it kinda sad that i had to spend an extra $50 to buy a better power supply after spending so much on the printer but oh well. I ended up ordering the Mean Well NES-350-24 and i will be printing the mount that Paul posted. My question is the wiring is exactly the same right? i mean nothing is different other than adding length to the wires correct? I currently have a cheap printer that i converted over to run with an atx power supply so i have no issues wiring things :p
Wiring is exactly the same, you'll just need to make wires a few inches longer.
awesome! thank you Neil
Re: Power Supply failure
I did this over the weekend using this mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2812350 . It works fine although the cables I got from Home Depot (14/2 landscape lighting wire) were quite a bit thicker than the Prusa ones which meant some filing/cutting to make the opening in the bottom of the mount big enough to pass the wires through.
Re: Power Supply failure
I did this over the weekend using this mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2812350 . It works fine although the cables I got from Home Depot (14/2 landscape lighting wire) were quite a bit thicker than the Prusa ones which meant some filing/cutting to make the opening in the bottom of the mount big enough to pass the wires through.
i might give this mount a print, looks pretty solid thanks again
Re: Power Supply failure
i find it kinda sad that i had to spend an extra $50 to buy a better power supply after spending so much on the printer but oh well. I ended up ordering the Mean Well NES-350-24 and i will be printing the mount that Paul posted. My question is the wiring is exactly the same right? i mean nothing is different other than adding length to the wires correct? I currently have a cheap printer that i converted over to run with an atx power supply so i have no issues wiring things :p
Wiring is exactly the same, you'll just need to make wires a few inches longer.
Neil, how long is the increase in wire length that needs to be added and are you just twisting ends together and covering with electrical tape or do you make a plug in connection?
I prefer to soldering the connections instead of twisting them together.
Re: Power Supply failure
i find it kinda sad that i had to spend an extra $50 to buy a better power supply after spending so much on the printer but oh well. I ended up ordering the Mean Well NES-350-24 and i will be printing the mount that Paul posted. My question is the wiring is exactly the same right? i mean nothing is different other than adding length to the wires correct? I currently have a cheap printer that i converted over to run with an atx power supply so i have no issues wiring things :p
Wiring is exactly the same, you'll just need to make wires a few inches longer.
Neil, how long is the increase in wire length that needs to be added and are you just twisting ends together and covering with electrical tape or do you make a plug in connection?
I prefer to soldering the connections instead of twisting them together.
Solder or crimp for sure.
Never just twist wires.......
Re: Power Supply failure
Neil, how long is the increase in wire length that needs to be added and are you just twisting ends together and covering with electrical tape or do you make a plug in connection?
I prefer to soldering the connections instead of twisting them together.
I completely replaced the stock wires, I didn't splice an additional length to them. I bought 3-ish feet of landscape lighting 14/2 wire from Home Depot, cut it in half, and crimped on forked ends on the resulting two lengths just like the stock wires have.
It works. My new wires are actually probably an inch or two too long but I don't care, I can't see them behind the printer. The bigger pain was the increased thickness. Had I bothered to spend more time hunting I probably could have found alternate 14/2 wire that didn't have such thick coating on it.
Re: Power Supply failure
are the failures mostly 110 volt or a mix
Re: Power Supply failure
are the failures mostly 110 volt or a mix
seems to be almost all 110V failing so far.
Re: Power Supply failure
From my research the failures have all been with units using 110/120v. I have not heard of a 220v service being affected. I have a 220 plug in the garage. I'm thinking of connecting there for my first hundred hours of printing, then move to my office and 110v.
The odds are against me getting a bad power supply, but MURPHY likes to stay close so maybe I will get hit.
Re: Power Supply failure
FWIW - there have been several 240-volt users that had a PS failure.
I remember someone from France specifically.
Re: Power Supply failure
Just swapped my power supply for the Mean Well NES-350-24 clicking is gone and everything has been running fine since. 😀
Re: Power Supply failure
Swapped mine out with the NES-24-350, clicking and rattling are gone and i've been printing on it for a while now. It's been great.
For those about to do it themselves:
1. This printed parts set works great: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2812350
2. You will need longer M4 screws for where the PSI mounts to the Z&X frame, so get flat ones and not the tapered ones. I think 12MM will work. If you only have tapered my M4 12MM ones work but they're not the right kind. You will need flat washers between this same vertical piece and the frame, or at least I did because my machine screws stuck a bit out from the printed part.
3. You will need M4 screws if you want to attach the PSU to the printed part all the way around. On the side you can use longer M4 12mm tapered screws but on the back where the insulation is you will need shorter screws so that you're not pressing on the insulation.
4. Stock wires are too short by a couple inches. It doesn't look like when you're putting it together, but trust me they are. As others have said if you are going to extend the wires solder or properly crimp don't just twist.
5. Stock wire gauge is 16GA
6. The thingiverse link above fits the power panic board.
7. Take a picture of the PSU before you excitedly start taking things apart 😉
8. Some people don't like the fan noise from the PSU. I thought it was going to be an issue and it's totally not. The fan is really quiet and only turns on every now and then for a few seconds. It's really not a big deal IMO.
9. Maybe its bias but I feel like everything heats up faster. Doubt it though.
10. I used a volt meter along the way to test leads and make sure I was getting 24V, then flipping the leads to make sure i got -24V. This was good because it allowed me to confirm along the way that I didn't get anything crossed up. If you don't have a volt meter use this as an excuse to get one 😉
Re: Power Supply failure
Swapped mine out with the NES-24-350, clicking and rattling are gone and i've been printing on it for a while now. It's been great.
For those about to do it themselves:
1. This printed parts set works great: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2812350
2. You will need longer M4 screws for where the PSI mounts to the Z&X frame, so get flat ones and not the tapered ones. I think 12MM will work. If you only have tapered my M4 12MM ones work but they're not the right kind. You will need flat washers between this same vertical piece and the frame, or at least I did because my machine screws stuck a bit out from the printed part.
3. You will need M4 screws if you want to attach the PSU to the printed part all the way around. On the side you can use longer M4 12mm tapered screws but on the back where the insulation is you will need shorter screws so that you're not pressing on the insulation.
4. Stock wires are too short by a couple inches. It doesn't look like when you're putting it together, but trust me they are. As others have said if you are going to extend the wires solder or properly crimp don't just twist.
5. Stock wire gauge is 16GA
6. The thingiverse link above fits the power panic board.
7. Take a picture of the PSU before you excitedly start taking things apart 😉
8. Some people don't like the fan noise from the PSU. I thought it was going to be an issue and it's totally not. The fan is really quiet and only turns on every now and then for a few seconds. It's really not a big deal IMO.
9. Maybe its bias but I feel like everything heats up faster. Doubt it though.
10. I used a volt meter along the way to test leads and make sure I was getting 24V, then flipping the leads to make sure i got -24V. This was good because it allowed me to confirm along the way that I didn't get anything crossed up. If you don't have a volt meter use this as an excuse to get one 😉
What a great write up! I think I may go ahead and get the LRS version and do this mod. If Prusa is having issues with the QC of their power sources then why no get something proven to hold up even if it's a couple bucks more. I found the LRS on amazon for $36. Thanks for posting this! I had posted in another thread before I found this thread that my printed died and I'm pretty sure it's the power source.
For those of you that replaced your PSU did you keep the same fuse in the switch as factory? I think it's a 5A fuse.